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Vacuum lines(solved) ---> Blown HG?

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    Vacuum lines(solved) ---> Blown HG?

    Ok, my dumb ass decided not to mark those damn vacuum lines when I pulled the intake off. Does anyone have a picture? Diagram from an EVTM that will guide me in replacing all thes effers? Particularly two hard-line plastic ones, one's red and one's green I think. I know there's one that goes to a small black box at the rear of teh engine bay, one that goes to the vacuum FPR thing on the fuel line, other than that I'm lost, except the obvious ones, coolant lines on EGR, PCV lines.

    Anyone guide a dipshit in need?

    #2
    Ok, got the vac lines figured out, I think.

    Now, I started it up and it pumped out some white-ish smoke for a good 10 minutes but now that it warmed up it has stopped. However, the coolant looks nasty gray-ish and there's a bit of "milkshake" on the end of the dipstick. From hanging out at Cougar/T-bird forums (lotta 3.8's) I know that these are two telltale signs of a head gasket failure. The car doesn't seem to have any less power, still runs really smoth, even though the idle sometimes wanders.

    So, is there any other way I could be getting coolant and oil mixed together besides a head gasket? What would make this problem present itself now?

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      #3
      When its running, have the radiator cap off, and look for bubbles coming from of the coolant. This is a good sign that compression is leaking into the cooling system.
      Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
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        #4
        Well, I changed the oil, topped off the coolant to the tune of 1.5 gallons and the oil is starting to look milky again. Could these results happen if I screwed up the intake gasket really bad?

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          #5
          yes if one of the water jackets is'nt sealed right, it will leak coolant right into the intake valley
          scott

          1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
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            #6
            A couple things. The smoking usually stops after the car has been run for a couple minutes. And, dumbass me, I forgot to mention that while I was under it changing the oil I could see coolant leaking down from what must be the back of the block. If a HG is bad, it isn't likely that the coolant would leak to the outside, right? Plus, why would this problem just now show up?

            I'm really thinking I just biffed up the intake gasket job.

            Comment


              #7
              leak

              If it is leaking down the back of the block, it could be a freeze plug leaking in the back of the block... But from what you described.. it sounds like a head gasket is blown, which can make it leak to the outside, or a cracked head, right on an outside wall to the water jacket... which is letting it leak outside the engine, and probably internally... Tom....


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                #8
                I just can't fathom why it would show up RIGHT after I did the intake gasket. The oil and coolant stayed out of each others affairs before this.

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                  #9
                  Ask yourself "What changed?"
                  You had the intake off, put it back on, and now you are leaking coolant both into your cylinder(s) and down the back of your engine.............
                  Remove your intake and fix your leaking intake gasket.
                  This is most likely the problem.
                  The small chance that a head gasket is leaking would be caused by overtorquing your intake manifold which will actually unload your head and allow the head gasket to fail. Most likely, this is not the case.

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                    #10
                    I agree with Mercracer... you did something wrong.

                    Unfortuneatly, you gotta pull the manifold again. I would suggest a Fel-Pro intake gasket set, the one with the rubber end seals.
                    when you install it, make sure the gaskets are facing the right way, they are marked "head side". I wasnt paying attention one time and almost installed them wrong.
                    Also, if you dont know. its very important to use the proper sequence and torque when tightening the manifold bolts.

                    BTW.. the Green vaccuum hose goes to the EGR valve, the Red hose goes to the "T" on the back of the intake, the small, short red hose is for the fuel pressure regulator. then there are 2 black rubber hose at the front and back, under the manifold. one in the back is for the MAP sensor, one in the front is for the cannister purge valve.
                    2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
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                      #11
                      I did figure out the vacuum sequence.

                      The gaskets I used were the good Fel-pro ones you mentioned. Once I get the intake off, how much more work is head gaskets? I know I'll have to take some, if not all of the front accessories off as well as the exhaust manifolds (i'll probably delete the A/C at this time, too) I figure if I get it in the garage I might as well take care of another potential problem, right?

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