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How do I reattach the door sills...

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    How do I reattach the door sills...

    ..if the fucking screw hole is rusted out? The hole is twice the size now, so there's no fucking way in hell that the screw will thread in.
    Save a seal, club a liberal.

    #2
    How about those dry wall plastic screw units that spread when you run the screw into 'em?

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      #3
      Pack the hole with some of that two part epoxy putty crap, wait for it to harden, and drill through it maybe? Or a long machine screw with a poly lock nut and a flat washer underneath the car would also do the trick.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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        #4
        Steel reinforced two part epoxy $5 at autozone


        1991 Crown Victoria LTD, Puff the Magik Dragon

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          #5
          Thanks guys. I'll give those a try on my next day off. Right now I'm rocking out to OEM dash speakers and my Roadmaster 6x9's. I could not find a suitable spot to run my amplifiers power cable without drilling the firewall. Nor could I get the wire for my door speakers to go through the rubber channeling with the other wires for the door. Needless to say I wasted most of my day, undoing what I had already done. Right now though it's all good. The OEM speakers sound decent, and there is quite a bit of boom from the 6x9's. I'm amazed. When they were in the Vic, they didn't have any boom to them really.
          Save a seal, club a liberal.

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            #6
            Originally posted by Paul229
            I could not find a suitable spot to run my amplifiers power cable without drilling the firewall. Nor could I get the wire for my door speakers to go through the rubber channeling with the other wires for the door.
            Power cable --> Route it down the passenger side of the car under the carpet in that plastic channel. In the floor of the passenger side, in front of the passenger seat, are a couple of rubber hole plugs. What I did on S.U. was punch through one of the rubber plugs and up the engine compartment to the power source.

            Door wiring --> A temperary way to route them are on the outside of the rubber channels. You can punch through the rubber channel ends to keep things looking half-assed neat. Leave extra wire somewhere along the line so you can redo it properly someday, if you want to. I went this route on the CV 'cause I was just tired of messing with it. On S.U., I was able to get the wire through the rubber channels with a neat little flexible metal tool from my neighbor. Just make sure the wires have room to flex and not kink.
            Last edited by monterey1962; 07-16-2006, 08:39 PM.

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              #7
              What gage speaker wires are you running through the doors?
              Scars are tatoos of the fearless

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                #8
                I'll try that sometime Justin. Today was way too hot (110* :nonono: )to mess with it too much.



                Originally posted by turbo2256b
                What gage speaker wires are you running through the doors?
                .16 gauge wire.
                Save a seal, club a liberal.

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                  #9
                  i just bought some screws with larger threads - working ok now but the holes are sure to get bigger with time...
                  Would using the epoxy or meatal filler stuff make the screws harder to get out?
                  Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                  'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
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