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    What is This?

    The part reads D8TE-9B982-B1A it has two vacuum lines and a power and ground wire...? This is extremely hot even after the engine has been closed for a while. I found this out the hard way accidentally touching it. My guess would be bad ground on this, but it looked find to me. I hope i can find my damn camera!

    #2
    Not sure about that part number, but it sounds offhand like an EGR valve. Those look pretty goofy on the early Panthers and Fox cars, either bolting to a special boss on the intake or onto a EGR spacer that mounts under the carb. Where's the part located?
    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

    Comment


      #3
      Where is it located? If its in a heater hose, that might be the thermal blower lockout or something.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #4
        Carburetor bowl vent solenoid.
        Rockauto pics for teh win!

        http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,5144

        Last edited by MasterBlaster; 05-19-2007, 07:26 AM.

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          #5
          Wow, shows what I know. Looks like the right part number ..... but what the heck would be the purpose in electronically controlling whether or not the fuel bowl is allowed to vent???
          2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

          Comment


            #6
            probably it actually sucks vapor off the tank, or so I'd guess.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #7
              ya, stupid emissions crap. It should not be hot to the touch.
              1987 Country Squire LX Wagon 5.0L: Daily Ride......1964 Lincoln Continental 430ci: Toy #1.
              1984 F-250 4x4 4.9L: Toy #2.............................1968 Volkswagen Bug 2.0L: Toy #3.
              1989 F-250 4x4 5.8L: Emergency backup and work truck...

              Comment


                #8
                Sorry it took me so long to reply, I am in Colorado right now. If it getting hot do you guys think i should replace it? Anyway to bypass this?
                Last edited by saiyaneye; 05-23-2007, 07:54 PM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by saiyaneye View Post
                  Sorry it took me so long to reply, I am in Colorado right now. If it getting hot do you guys think i should replace it? Anyway to bypass this?
                  I really don't know squat about bowl vents, but some searching turned up the following resources:

                  http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4267129.html
                  http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/66...scription.html
                  http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250...rb/carb02.html
                  http://www.patentdigi.com/straighten...n_control.html

                  According to the above sources, the fuel bowl vent is often ducted to an appropriate intake air passage when the engine is running and to a charcoal canister when the engine is not running, generally switched with a solenoid valve like the one pictured in a previous post. If our identification of the part is correct (and I expect it is), its job is to handle fuel fumes, and as such, it could potentially present a safety hazard if it's overheating. If my understanding is correct, the solenoid is supposed to get +12 Volts when the ignition is on, and nothing when the ignition is off, so the easiest solution might be to first verify that this is indeed happening on the hot side and as you suggested, make sure the ground is both good and reliable. If it appears not to be functioning correctly, it might be easiest to just replace it with a new one. Alternatively, some research could most likely turn up a simpler system for handling these fumes.

                  On the other hand, I seem to recall you had another post where you were complaining about your carburetor's performance; if you were to replace it with an aftermarket four-barrel like Edelbrock's 1403, the issue of this bowl vent valve would probably be eliminated entirely with no need to spend money on emissions parts.
                  2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    As a stop-gap you could try unplugging it till you can get a new one. If it doesn't negatively affect performance, its probably better to run with it unplugged than to risk a fire or something.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Comment


                      #11
                      When I get home tomorrow I am going to run a new ignition wire to the selenoid and upgrade/check the ground. I have about 30 ft of 8 gauge laying around, 25 ft of 10, and some 12. I will not even waste my 8 or 10 gauge on it seeing that the wire is about 16 awg. I think 12 awg will be fine. If it still is getting hot I will try replacing it. To bad that little bastard is $50, looking at it you expect to pay around $5 lol.

                      Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
                      I really don't know squat about bowl vents, but some searching turned up the following resources:

                      http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4267129.html
                      http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/66...scription.html
                      http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250...rb/carb02.html
                      http://www.patentdigi.com/straighten...n_control.html

                      According to the above sources, the fuel bowl vent is often ducted to an appropriate intake air passage when the engine is running and to a charcoal canister when the engine is not running, generally switched with a solenoid valve like the one pictured in a previous post. If our identification of the part is correct (and I expect it is), its job is to handle fuel fumes, and as such, it could potentially present a safety hazard if it's overheating. If my understanding is correct, the solenoid is supposed to get +12 Volts when the ignition is on, and nothing when the ignition is off, so the easiest solution might be to first verify that this is indeed happening on the hot side and as you suggested, make sure the ground is both good and reliable. If it appears not to be functioning correctly, it might be easiest to just replace it with a new one. Alternatively, some research could most likely turn up a simpler system for handling these fumes.

                      On the other hand, I seem to recall you had another post where you were complaining about your carburetor's performance; if you were to replace it with an aftermarket four-barrel like Edelbrock's 1403, the issue of this bowl vent valve would probably be eliminated entirely with no need to spend money on emissions parts.
                      Do you think I still need it with my two barrel Holley carb? I will have to get you guys The carb model number when I get home. If that is the case what should I do just cap off the vacuumed line and call it a day?
                      Last edited by saiyaneye; 05-24-2007, 02:32 AM.

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