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    94 EGR System

    OBD I
    codes 332, 337 ( I think )

    1 of them is EGR flow insuffecent. the other is EGR/PFE circuit voltage out of range.

    well the EGR system is known as a Pressure feedback system the way it works is the PFE or (pressure feedback) sensor monitors the exhaust gas pressure via rubber hose connected from sensor to manifold. difference's in pressure relate to the actual EGR valves position. the EGR vacuum solanoid controls the egr valve's actions.

    Well the check engine light has apparently been coming on, flashing, and sometimes go's out. (thats what my grandmother told me it was doing.) It was solid on when I was handed the keys this morning. So I scanned it KOEO test pulled no immideate codes. only those 2 memory codes mentioned before. codes have been cleared and definitions wrote down.

    Checked the EGR valve using a vac pump and it did show movement both engine idle and smoothness, so i would assume that the passage is open and the valve does move when VAC is applied.

    I think is a faulty PFE sensor.

    the engine had a very slight miss/unsmoothness at idle. I also noticed a slight pinging under heavy accelleration. its about to roll 100k plug and wire set has already been planned along with fuel filter. I'm trying to keep them from going and trading it in cuz I want it and eventually they will prob give it to me. both this 94 & my 87 mercs were both owned by my LATE greatgrandfather aswell as my grandfather.

    any help would be appriciated.
    1987 MGM 126K 2" True Duel flowmaster 40's 3" tipped exhuast, Tinted 20% all way round, individual bank A/F guages, tach.


    #2
    Very first thing to check is the exhaust supply tube, these are notorious for breaking on 93-95 cars. I have replaced several of them. this is the metal flexible tube that goes from the passenger exhaust pipe, just behind the manifold to the back of the EGR valve. the best way to inspect the tube is jack the car up and go from underneath on the passenger side. using a flash light you should be able to see most of the pipe. look for black stains/soote on the tube, this will mean the tube is cracked and leaking.
    2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
    89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
    88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006


    I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

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      #3
      Hi LTMercDaddy

      Next thing to check is that the EGR channels in the intake are not blocked up, then start to worry about the DPFE sensor.

      Regards

      Dereck
      President and founder of The Turbine Wheel Appreciation Society and Little Debbie Cake Connoissuer

      Also "The Pondside Pain In Your Posterior"

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        #4
        I've visually inspected both the egr supply tube aswell as the tube going to PFE sensor the hose going to the sensor isnt burnt threw as I have seen on other ford vehicles. no indications of any exhaust leaks.

        I applied VAC to the vac port on the egr valve and noticed a change in idle and smoothness when it was applyed. I would assume that passages are clear and that the valve is working.

        only things I havent been able to do is test the voltage and resistance on the PFE circuit. aswell as check for exhaust pressure on the PFE line.

        is there a way to activate the VAC solinoid for the egr valve, so i can test for a VAC reading?
        1987 MGM 126K 2" True Duel flowmaster 40's 3" tipped exhuast, Tinted 20% all way round, individual bank A/F guages, tach.

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          #5
          With a 337 code you'll want to replace the sensor. The tests you have run so far indicate that the EGR passages and valve are clear and working. Until you get a working sensor in place you won't know if there are other problems or not.

          Ray
          Car: 2004 Mercury Marauder
          Engine/Tranny: 49k miles and bone stock....for now

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            #6
            Well Installed the new PFE/sensor along with new plugs (wires were ok) 8mm motorcrafts. Also replaced the fuel filter and air filter. The PFE sensor was a PITA to remove, the hose connecting from the exhaust to the sensor runs threw the bracket so removal of the bracket is required.

            the plugs weren't too bad, brownish at the bottom grayish on the ground. all of them were at about .056" so we replaced them with fresh champion coppers again.

            I located a vac leak when looking the vehicle over. I thought I heard it before when it was at the shop but was unable to locate it then, thought it was the throttle body whistling. further inspection found that the crossover tube connecting both manifold vac ports to the PCV had a collapsed/deteriorated rubber hose on the driver side of the crossover tube.

            Check engine light since hasn't come on. The only codes were for the PFE/EGR. no EVAP codes. During test drive noticed no more pinging under heavy acceleration as well as no more jumpy/rough idle.

            They are about to take it for a 300mi ride to Delaware so if its not fixed im sure it will show up then.

            I also disconnected the POS/NEG battery cables and pressed the brake pedal for a few to reset anything.

            very very smoooooooth now
            1987 MGM 126K 2" True Duel flowmaster 40's 3" tipped exhuast, Tinted 20% all way round, individual bank A/F guages, tach.

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              #7
              You know what, I just found this thread out, my 97 Lincoln whistles after it warms up. The sound comes from what I guess could be the throttle body/IAC area. It goes away when you give it gas , but comes back when you let off the pedal. Now I am looking into this. It just seems to me that mine could be a vacuum issue
              "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

              -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
              -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
              -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
              -2011 Subaru Outback

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