Add Amp/Box to Premium Sound

[86GmLsCoupe]

I have a decent Coustic amp and box with two MTX 10"s laying around that my brother had hooked up in my first car with a Line Out Converter. When I sold the car in 02, I took them out and they've been laying around since. My brother's been bugging me lately to work on my stereo in the Merc. I'm not touching my stock radio, but supplementing it isn't out of the question. What I want to know is has anyone ever hooked up and amp/sub to the Premium Sound stereo using a LOC? What kind of results did you get from this setup? I was thinking that I could buy a good quality LOC and tap into the rear deck. I don't want to risk damaging the factory stereo and don't know whether it would be as straight forward as when it was hooked up in my old Grand Am.

[AudioPro]

A LOC hooked to the rear speakers will be just fine, but remember to use a GOOD LOC. I have seen many systems that if someone would spend $10 - $15 more, that there system would be much louder, and with fewer problems. DO NOT buy one from Wal-Mart. Biggest P.O.S on the earth. Have seen them melted from the stock radio.

[86GmLsCoupe]

Thanks for the advice. i was looking into the Dave Navone LOC's and had heard they were pretty good. Are there any other's that you've hear of or would recommend? It's still something I'm on the fence about doing but it seems like an acceptable way to beef up the stock system.

[AudioPro]

The audio shop I work out now uses PAC. they are good and cheep, have had no problems with them (10+ years of use). I would get "SNI-15", or if you can find it "TRUNK-LOC". it provides a remote signal for your amplifier without running a remote wire to the radio. but many stores do not carry it, but they could order it for you. if you get it from ebay, PAC will not cover the warranty. buy it from your local stereo store. also let me know when you are ready i might be able to provide you with the speaker wire color (info I can get is hit or miss on older cars)

[86GmLsCoupe]

Alright, I'll look into the PAC. I'd also go for the TRUNK-LOC so I won't have a to worry about a remote wire. My brother ran the old setup with toggle and it was annoying to turn on each time. Also going to see about using a Diode or Relay so I don't get the pop noise when the amp kicks on. It did it in the old car so I don't think it has a soft turn on feature.

I think I might already have the wiring colors. I got them from 12volt.com.
Left Rear (+) Pink/Green
Left Rear (-) Pink/Blue
Right Rear (+) Pink/Blue
Right Rear (-) Green/Orange

[AudioPro]

You do not have to use a switch to turn on/off the amp, there are a few places you can get a perfect remote input signal. One place is the ignition switch harness (from the ignition switch on the column) on your 86 GM look for a GRAY with a YELLOW stripe, this is the accessory wire. Make sure to test the wire! Or you can go behind the radio, tap into the YELLOW with BLACK stripe.

The most common reason for amp pop is a bad ground. DO NOT USE A BOLT THAT THE FACTORY IS USING!!!! Best thing to do is find a spot where you can get to both sides of steel (I used the seam for the wheel well), get a nut and bolt, drill a hole sand the paint around the new hole(you should see shinny steel), and bolt your ground down. There is nothing out there to get rid of amp pop (just cover it up). If the system is installed the right way, your system should last about 5+ years with no problems.

[86GmLsCoupe]

Thanks. I'll probably t-tap in behind the radio because I just had an alarm done and I ended up having to replace a loose ignition switch and it's pretty tight already in the column with the added wires. I'm probably just going to start getting things together for now and I'll keep you updated.