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HELP - 03 GM can't get rear rotor off!!!

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    HELP - 03 GM can't get rear rotor off!!!

    Hello,

    My GM's rear rotors failed inspection today. I got new rotors and I am having a hell of a time getting them changed. I removed the brake caliper, the emergency brake is NOT on, and I can't get the rotor off. I removed the rotor clips, and everywhere that I have read...it says the rotor should come off. I have sprayed with PB blast, I have banged the hell out of it with a mallet, etc.

    Any suggestions? When I bang on the old rotor...where should I be hitting it. on the sides?

    frustrated in pa!!!! I am ready to take my sledge hammer to the car right now.
    I'm in the Plain Wrapper rolling in the hammer lane!

    #2
    Dang, I had no idea your state safety inspections extended to brakes as well! I could so not afford to own a car if I lived there.

    Random thought, have you tried a three-jaw puller? I've had success with that on drum brakes that absolutely refused to come off despite any amount of PB Blaster, heat cycling with a torch, and whacking around the rim with various hammers.
    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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      #3
      Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
      Dang, I had no idea your state safety inspections extended to brakes as well! I could so not afford to own a car if I lived there.

      Random thought, have you tried a three-jaw puller? I've had success with that on drum brakes that absolutely refused to come off despite any amount of PB Blaster, heat cycling with a torch, and whacking around the rim with various hammers.
      Took it to a Tires Plus...they had to find something. Anyway, not sure what a 3 jaw puller is but I will try anything at this point. Thanks for the advice.
      I'm in the Plain Wrapper rolling in the hammer lane!

      Comment


        #4
        Here's a representative 3-piece set from Harbor Freight, albeit too small for pulling brake rotors. I frequently rent stuff like this from my local AutoZone, as it's free. Their 10" model was what got me out of trouble before.

        http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=8832
        2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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          #5
          The parking brakes can be a real bitch. Sometimes you just have to pound to get it off.
          Chris - A 20th Century Man \m/ ^.^ \m/

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            #6
            Maybe back off the adjuster on the parking brake. Instead of using a mallet use a real too. Rotors are junk anyway. 4 lb mini sledge works good.
            1989 Grand Marquis LS
            flat black, 650 double pumper, random cam, hei, stealth intake, Police front springs, Wagon rear, Police rear bar, wagon front ,exploder wheels, 205/60-15 fronts 275/60-15 rears, 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" offroad x pipe, Eclipse front bucket seats, Custom floor shifter, 4.10 gears, aluminum driveshaft and daily driven. 16.77@83mph

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              #7
              Im thinking parking brake.
              Vehicle: 1965 Pontiac Catalina (fastback 2+2)
              Chasis: 1982 Ford LTD Country Squire
              Drivetrain: 302 V8 carb, AOD, 8.8 with 3.08 gears.
              Big Brake swap and front suspension completed.
              sigpic

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                #8
                Hello Again! Thanks to everyone who responded. After a about an hour on each rotor, I was able to get them off. I kept spraying with PB blast and hammered and hammered! There's the shield on the inside of the rotor so you only have a 2 inch space to hammer. I put the car in neutral and then could whack it, turn it a little, whack it again, etc. I probably made the job 10 times more difficult than it had to be...guess that's what happens when frustration sets in.

                Happy top-notch mechanic in Harrisburg, PA.
                I'm in the Plain Wrapper rolling in the hammer lane!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Ha, your proximity would have made the easiest solution to go see scottmang, a master guru who just happens to live near you... if you didnt know.
                  Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                  'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
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                  85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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                    #10
                    PA state inspection does require a very comprehensive check of the vehicle, including measuring rotor thickness, ball joint play, and other stuff. Honestly its not a bad thing, for the $75 it costs you end up with a car you know is safe for yourself and other people on the road. Of course, there are places that will slap stickers on, but since there is a lot of potential coin to be made off inspection items, shops like to do them.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                      #11
                      got it dale good!
                      sometimes you gotta use a bigger hammer

                      1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                      2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                      1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                      1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                      2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                      1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                      please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                        PA state inspection does require a very comprehensive check of the vehicle, including measuring rotor thickness, ball joint play, and other stuff. Honestly its not a bad thing, for the $75 it costs you end up with a car you know is safe for yourself and other people on the road. Of course, there are places that will slap stickers on, but since there is a lot of potential coin to be made off inspection items, shops like to do them.

                        Dang ... you mean you have to PAY for the inspection so they can tell you your junk isn't up to snuff? I would have assumed that being required by the state, the testing would be done at state expense, just like emissions testing in NW Indiana.
                        2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                          #13
                          Sadly no. In PA the customer pays for the state inspection and depending on which county they are in an emissions test as well. The shop I work in is in an emissions county and we charge about $47 for both.

                          As for the rear rotors the adjusters would be the first thing to back off, and the pivots for the parking brakes tend to rust solid in the rust belt so it would be worthwhile to free them up to.
                          Current stable:
                          1984 Ford LTD Crown Vic
                          1994 GMC Jimmy 4x4
                          1972 Volkswagen Camper Bus
                          2000 Ford Windstar

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                            #14
                            This is why you should be in the habit of using your parking brakes.


                            Helps keep things working and makes things a bit more secure!
                            2003 Mercury Marauder
                            Trilogy #132 Posi Performance Ported
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                              #15
                              In FL, they dont care. No emissions or inspections. I wounder what they would say about my car if we did have inspections?????
                              Last edited by 82LTDQS; 03-04-2009, 08:30 AM. Reason: Bad spelling
                              Vehicle: 1965 Pontiac Catalina (fastback 2+2)
                              Chasis: 1982 Ford LTD Country Squire
                              Drivetrain: 302 V8 carb, AOD, 8.8 with 3.08 gears.
                              Big Brake swap and front suspension completed.
                              sigpic

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