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    How might you like to

    how do you guys like to close off the circutes on speaker wire, i myself have allways uused them little butt connectors or the like. Or either uused twist caps. Latley i been thinking i been looking at that all wrong, i should be closing them up with soder instead... So how do you guys like to do it?

    And whhat type of wire do you guys like to use. for the stero and for the speakers? brands etc
    People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.

    #2
    Crimp connectors are OK, but I like to cover them with shrink tube. I also solder things a lot, but in a lot of places it doesn't matter. If I'm doing crimp connectors, I like 3M Scotchloks or Thomas and Betts StaKons. The chinese ones just suck.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
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    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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      #3
      i solder and shrink tube everything, no exceptions and more importantly, no failures in my connections
      What happened here?

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        #4
        I use whatever the hell i have on hand. Never once had a problem and i have been messing around with my car for 3+ years now.
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        My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

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          #5
          Originally posted by crown vic muscle View Post
          i solder and shrink tube everything, no exceptions and more importantly, no failures in my connections
          I do this most of the time, but sometimes there's just no substitute for a crimp on connection. i also invested in a crimp tool that will really make a solid connection instead of relying on the crappy wire strippers.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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            #6
            Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
            I do this most of the time, but sometimes there's just no substitute for a crimp on connection. i also invested in a crimp tool that will really make a solid connection instead of relying on the crappy wire strippers.
            A real crimp tool that you can get some leverage on is the way to go. I work for Roadmaster, the company that makes shit to tow car behind motorhome, and I wire the cars so that the taillights work off the motorhome's trailer lights. I believe there are audio specific wire nuts (the twist together connections), but for everything else I use butt connectors.

            If you use scotchloks at my work you might get fired. The boss has said this on more than one occasion.
            Originally posted by gadget73
            There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
            91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
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              #7
              I'm talking 3M brand butt connectors, could have sworn the box said scotchlock but its been a while since I had one in my hands. Not those vampire tap things that pierce the insulation and cut through wire strands. Those suck and create a lot of problems. At work we use the T&B StaKons because its what we get through Grainger. The box I have here at home I think may actually be Gardner-Bender.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                #8
                I haven't had any crimp-related problems yet... I use heat shrink ones on any that might get exposed to elements and only use crimp-taps for low-amp signal wires.

                The "brand" of wire you use doesn't really matter unless you are running really high power stuff, as long as you use large enough wire you will be fine.
                Most speakers and amps will tell you recommended wire sizes in the user manuals.
                If you are installing an amp, look for "shielded" RCA cables, these will pick up less noise, if its even an issue in your setup.
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                  #9
                  For stereo wiring I never butt-connect, and never solder. Butt connects are too bulky, and solder joints like to fall apart. I splice the wires directly with each other - split strands in two, push the wires together, twist each pair good, fold over in opposite directions, heat shrink the connection twice over. Makes great contact, but is still flexible. When I have to use a butt-connect fitting, such as for higher power wires, I cut the insulation of the connector so I'm down to bare metal, then crimp it as if it were a regular non-insulated connector, then of course heat shrink over it with two layers. Never do I use wire nuts, I like my connections waterproof and corrosion-resistant. My truck has so much wiring added to it it's not even funny, yet I trust my wiring more than I do the factory harnesses.

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