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    Need help with build options

    Im trying for as much hp as possibe without loosing the dd aspect. Its a 91 merc with roller setup. I recently nabbed a set of gt40p heads from an explorer but im having allot of dificulty getting my mind set on where to go from there.

    #2
    First question, how much money can you spend?

    Any 1/4 mile goals in mind?

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      #3
      No real quarter in mind and as far as money goes i dont want to spend a shitload but im not afraid to get new stuff. Where i am though, i have huge acess to pull aparts. However im interested in pulling around 275+hp if its reasonable to do.

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        #4
        Stock explorer motor with a cam and some tuning/porting can put down near that number. Fuel economy blows though. From what I've seen, not much can be done porting wise, and porting iron heads isn't usually cost effective.

        You can build a nice DD motor with the heads, an explorer intake, and an explorer cam, basically a stock explorer motor. The explorers are horribly choked exhaust wise stock, just headers and exhaust will gain quite a bunch
        Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

        Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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          #5
          Explorer or GT40 intakes/heads/cam and something like a 67mm lightning egr spacer and a 65mm tb would get you close with a good set of headers and a 2.5" header back exhaust system. Explorer cam has more torque down low I hear, but I run a mustang cam and not much happens until 2500rpm. Use the 5.0 God gave you! no need to go buy a whole new motor if the one you got is OK. Just my 2c
          1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

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            #6
            There's certainly a lot that can be done using factory cams, plus good used examples can often be had really cheaply (like from the same Exploder you got the heads from!). Depending on what you have planned elsewhere (looser converter, deeper gears, higher-rpm shift governor), the Explorer cam may be all you can really use anyway with its ~4000rpm horsepower peak.

            We were just talking in another Panther Muscle thread about the projected benefits of a Comp XE258HR camshaft (PN 35-510-8). Outlaw440 was touting the benefits of a custom-ground cam that'll be just right for your vehicle; he feels the $50-$100 or so above the cost of a good off-the-shelf cam is well worthwhile.
            2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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              #7
              Originally posted by 89LincolnTWNcar View Post
              Explorer or GT40 intakes/heads/cam and something like a 67mm lightning egr spacer and a 65mm tb would get you close with a good set of headers and a 2.5" header back exhaust system. Explorer cam has more torque down low I hear, but I run a mustang cam and not much happens until 2500rpm. Use the 5.0 God gave you! no need to go buy a whole new motor if the one you got is OK. Just my 2c

              Any reason your recommending such a small Throttle body at ~65mm?

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                #8
                Does anyone run a TB larger than that in a street Panther?
                2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                  #9
                  Use the biggest throttle body an intake manifold can support.

                  Say, if the intake manifold has a 80mm inlet then use an 80mm TB, if it has a 70mm inlet then use a 70mm TB.

                  I don't remember what size the explorer intake inlet is, maybe it is 65mm, but i thought it was at least 70. At any rate, while the explorer intake is much better than stock, there are much better choices for intakes.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Outlaw440 View Post
                    Use the biggest throttle body an intake manifold can support.

                    Say, if the intake manifold has a 80mm inlet then use an 80mm TB, if it has a 70mm inlet then use a 70mm TB.

                    I don't remember what size the explorer intake inlet is, maybe it is 65mm, but i thought it was at least 70. At any rate, while the explorer intake is much better than stock, there are much better choices for intakes.
                    The 65mm is fine, the EGR spacer is a restriction, can't bore it out much and the throttle cable bracket bolts to the EGR spacer. There is only one direct bolt in option for it-and they are hard to find.
                    Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                    Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Titanius Anglesmith View Post
                      The 65mm is fine.
                      Not hardly.

                      Sure with a stock cam you may think its enough, but why the hell would you use a stock cam in the first place? When in reality using a smaller TB in any circumstance is giving up power.

                      Originally posted by Titanius Anglesmith View Post
                      the EGR spacer is a restriction, can't bore it out much.
                      Then get rid of it.

                      Originally posted by Titanius Anglesmith View Post
                      and the throttle cable bracket bolts to the EGR spacer.
                      Why is everyone afraid to make a custom throttle cable bracket?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Outlaw440 View Post
                        Sure with a stock cam you may think its enough, but why the hell would you use a stock cam in the first place?
                        Used stock Mustang and Explorer cams are very cheap and sometimes free, and both are upgrades over OE Vic cams (even though the Mustang cam is far from ideal in my opinion). Lots of guys can't afford to spend $300-plus on valvetrain upgrades, no matter how much power it adds.


                        Originally posted by Outlaw440 View Post
                        When in reality using a smaller TB in any circumstance is giving up power.
                        Big throttle bodies are no good with HO manifolds ... and besides, these mods are in most cases going on an engine for which stock E7 and F3 heads are an upgrade .....


                        Originally posted by Outlaw440 View Post
                        Then get rid of it [the EGR spacer].
                        Some guys live in Smog Hell and can't eliminate emissions equipment and expect to renew their registration.


                        Originally posted by Outlaw440 View Post
                        Why is everyone afraid to make a custom throttle cable bracket?
                        Some do.
                        2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
                          Some guys live in Smog Hell and can't eliminate emissions equipment and expect to renew their registration.
                          Well my bad for the confusion then, i was just basing that off the 2 states i have lived in (new hampshire and Mass) where emissions laws for anything 1995 and older are non existant. The original poster said nothing about emissions laws.

                          Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
                          Big throttle bodies are no good with HO manifolds
                          We were talking about GT40 explorer intakes.

                          Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
                          Lots of guys can't afford to spend $300-plus on valvetrain upgrades, no matter how much power it adds.
                          There are plenty Off the shelf options for less than $300, yes i mentioned a custom cam in other threads for people who aren't afraid to spend an extra $100 or so. But, its my personal opinion that if $100 is going to make or break your engine build budget, you need to stop building motors.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Outlaw440 View Post
                            But, its my personal opinion that if $100 is going to make or break your engine build budget, you need to stop building motors.
                            :lol: I think I need your engine build budgets!

                            Still, there's a BIG difference for a lot of first-time modders between a used factory 'shaft that can be had for free and works OK with $65 valvepsrings, versus a $260 cam from Comp Cams where you have to buy upgraded springs and retainers separately. I kind of split the difference with a $240 cam/spring/retainer kit from Crane, though I would like to try a superior Comp grind in this engine somewhere down the road. Maybe when my 2-year-old hits college.
                            Last edited by 1987cp; 10-07-2009, 02:16 PM.
                            2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              LOL, if you don't know why... you know nothing about these cars.
                              Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                              Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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