Looking to find a good quality 6.5 speaker can handle 125watts rms

[83countrysquire]

Ok well i am looking to get a 6.5 component speakers or just mid,low range one (subs basically)that can handle 125watts rms, I have speakers that can handle 100 watts right now but when i get to turning it up i think i am about to blow them (popping and such weird things happen) so looking for a decent set anyone have any recommendations with out killing piggy bank.

[91grandmarquis]

Are you running crossovers? I know even most apine/kicker speakers are rated for 75 watts rms, which is very loud. What is your amp setup?

[torquelover]

You need to put a high-pass filter on them if you have not already. I had various 6.5s, from low-end to high-end, handle 300wrms no problems as long as there was at least a fourth-order hi-pass set to approx 60hz or so.

[83countrysquire]

well the problem is i have 2 sets of Cadence CWM6-KIT (component speakers) and they say they can handle a 100watts rms each... they sound amazing but when i start to bump up the power in the car they start to pop so i want to replace them so i get full range of system... I was planning on just replacing they speakers and leaving the other component parts in and hooking them up the same way... I wired in capacitors so that they wont hit as low (thought that might of been the problem but it turned out it wasnt) I current have a planet audio vx4004 amp. So I am open to suggestions but I just want full range of my system it sounds amazing at lower volumes but I want to make it loud sometimes too with out blowing shit up.

[91grandmarquis]

I would check your amps rms, and also look at some external crossovers. If the amps per channel rms isn't over your speakers rms rating then that shouldn't be the problem. Sounds like you need to cut the bass out of them so they don't try to hit hard and distort. try turning the bass down and see if you can go louder that way. even with capacitors my speakers will pop a little bit when I crank it. Im looking at external crossovers in my next system. most component speakers from alpine etc come with matched crossovers so the speakers only get the frequency they can handle at that power. ie, tweeters get highs, mids get mid range, and cones get some bass. Do you have a sub woofer in your car? this would mean you could cut way more bass from your speakers and still have a full sound. also the sub should not be allowed to get any high frequencies.

[83countrysquire]

I have one 12inch sub right now tapped into the rear channel for speakers, this is amp http://www.audiodiscounters.com/shop...04-p-3675.html, here are speakes http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductC...&idproduct=194 and basicly have them wire negative to negative and positive to positive for each channel...

[83countrysquire]

maybe get something like these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=263602_263622 will they work

[91grandmarquis]

any sub should work if the rms is over the 100w. Is that amp a 4 channel or do you have it bridged to 2?

[83countrysquire]

its a 4 channel, but my sub is on the one terminal of each rear channel to get 400watts to it but since rear speakers are running it i dont think its getting that much power.... hey do you know if i can bench test an amp cause i have one i dont know if its goood anymore?

[91grandmarquis]

Should be able to. Im not sure how though, 87gtvic should know, or jonathan. Its all about getting the right power, can probably run it off a battery with inline fuse.

[83countrysquire]

well i ll explain what happen maybe it can give a better judge if the amp is good or bad... I had this amp hooked up to two mtx 10" subs with no capacitor it was a tc3001 http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...ers/TC3001.cfm with theses subs http://www.buy.com/retail/product.as...ingid=63701314, and one day came out to car one sub was siezed up and would move at all than the other one went out the same way in minutes. After that I just replaced everythin not knowing what went wrong.

[gadget73]

Distortion is more likely you pushing the amplifier past it's limits than the speakers. When you overpower speakers, the voice coils get hot, and they either melt, or distort the pole piece to make the speaker rattle against the magnet or seize up. It doesn't cause distortion. The amplifier being run past it's limits makes for really nasty sound. I could get into the electrical reasons why, but it doesn't really matter, the short story is the amp can only run so loud before it changes music to horrible noise. That horribly distorted noise will blow a speaker out too, even if the speaker is rated to handle well above what the amplifier is rated to produce.

[91grandmarquis]

^ he is correct, check your ratio ( I think its signal to noise on most amps) the higher the better. It basically says it will distort this percent at this decibel value.

[gadget73]

signal to noise ratio is just that, how many DB below signal the noise floor is. A high ratio is better, mostly because it means there is very little system produced noise. The better the equipment is, the less noise it adds. Noise in this case is any sort of crap other than music. It includes distortion, static, alternator whine, or anything that isn't what you're supposed to be hearing.

THD, or total harmonic distortion deals with the purity of the signal, but THD figures are measured at a certain output level. It won't tell you how distorted things get as it gets louder. Past a certain output level, the THD figure will go up, and it goes up very rapidly as you approach the amp's max capacity. THD is usually measured right about at the highest wattage an amplifier can make without distorting a great amount.


Basically the reason for high volume distortion is how solid state electronics clip. They have a maximum voltage level that they can produce, and its a flat line above that. Audio is basically a sine wave, nice and curvy. When you drive an amplifier to clip, you get square waves. Square waves have a huge amount of harmonics, which is what destroys speakers. Tubes don't clip the same way, which is why they sound totally different when you drive them hard.

[83countrysquire]

So what your saying is that my amp is fine, just that when my brother was using it he pushed the limits of the amp and screwed everything up. So is there anyway to avoid this if I hook it up to my new sub. I never realy crank the bass I just want to have a balance of all the mid highs and low in my car a quality system basically.