Anyway most of them seem to be carbed intake. How much work is it to switch over to this setup in a 91 with EFI? I would like to stay EFI, but I was just wondering.
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"Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
1985 GMC 1500
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Remove carb intake. Put on EFI intake.
I'm sure there's some good long blocks though that are probably a little cheaper.2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP -
^^this. The bolt pattern is identical, so no special magic to swap to an EFI manifold. The only thing you really need to know is if its a roller cam or a flat cam, because that affects the distributor gear.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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they're plenty interchangeable. a guy i know was getting shitty mileage with his EFI town car and he's used to working on carbs so he tore the efi stuff out and put a 4bbl on. i think he did it backwards but that's just me
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- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stockComment
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I see, I was just worried about wiring, I knew the bolt patterns would be the same. It just seems to be kind of a waste to buy a crate engine then drop another grand on an efi intake for it.... I will see what happens."Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
1985 GMC 1500
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those crate engines are way overpriced.......better off building your own
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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1. Stay away from the Ford crate engines. WAYYY overpriced for most everything they offer.Originally posted by 91grandmarquis View Post
2. The problem with buying a crate motor is that if you buy a long block, unless they specifically offer an EFI-friendly camshaft (around a 114 or so LSA, EFI works better with good vacuum signal), a lot of these aren't really friendly to EFI.
3. My recommendation? Buy a built short block, and add the remaining parts. With what I'm seeing from local machine shops, and the exorbitant prices they charge for machine work, in nasty, dirty shops, if you do your homework on a short block, you'll come out about even, and the bottom half will already be assembled.
4. The only sticking point to this route is that you'll need to ensure that the heads are torqued down correctly, and that you have pushrod length/rocker geometry checked by someone proficient in that particular endeavor.Comment
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Well I was looking into it because of the warranty on a pre assembled engine is all. From what I have seen Ford Racing seems to be some of the cheaper ones I have found, maybe I am looking in the wrong spot though. Im considering either a 302/351 shortblock."Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
1985 GMC 1500
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Check out www.fordstrokers.com there liberator short blocks are a steal for the quality of work he puts into them.You can also buy a do it your self liberator completly machine block and rotating assembly you just put it together, that will save you even more money. And the owner is a straight shooter with good customer service.
'90 LX 5.0 mustang
Big plansComment
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