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I have decided that I am dropping the CFI...

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    I have decided that I am dropping the CFI...

    and going to swap in a carb. Now, I know this has been asked a million times over, but I figure that if anyone else wants to switch over from CFI, they can read this post and see what they need.

    So. What do I need?

    I have read that I will need a different fuel pump, but can I get a pressure regulator and drop it from the 35 PSI or so, to 4-5? Or could it screw up the pump?

    If I drop the engine computer, would that have any effect on the the ignition, like the distributor or something? Could I swap in an older distributor and go with an old fashion coil?
    Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
    Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

    #2
    good choice!

    scott says about using an 84 tempo fuel filter (witht he return line) and an inline fuel pressure regulator and the stock pump...

    With justins car we removed the intank pump and put a pipe there, with an electric pump inline..I wouldnt go this route, but use an old style mechanical fuel pump. You prob just need to grind out the hole on your timing cover. :hacksaw: :welder:

    You will also need to convert to a duraspark ignition. This requires the older dist, duraspark box, etc...

    Also, what carb are you going to use? I would snag one off an F150 with a 302 and an AOD. I hear this works well. Or are you going 4bbl?

    If you are going 4bbl, you will need to get the lokar throttle cable and AOD TV cable.

    Hope this helps. Most is from expirience, some is stuff ive heard.

    www.phayzer5.net and check out the info archive...it explains everything..if you can, watch the videos, i explain the whole fuel pump thing!
    1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
    Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

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      #3
      Which would be better do you think? 2 barrel or four barrel? I know with the 4 I would have to swap in a different intake. If I was going to go that route, I might as well do something with the heads too.
      Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
      Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

      Comment


        #4
        first and foremost, save lots of money...........all the little crap (gaskets, hoses, clamps unforseen broken parts) usually adds up to quite a bit. imo a 2bbl carb is going to be no better than the cfi setup.......and also 302 2bbl aod trucks were pretty rare. you might want to start elsewhere where your money will give you more bang for the buck........example: dual exhaust and headers first, then different rear gears and a traction lock, also your transmission must be able to handle the extra power of different heads, cam and a 4bbl...;......dont expect a racecar out of the towncar lol with all my mods, i'm still only running 16's in the 1/4 mi
        good luck! feel free to ask me for any advise......i will do my best to answer any ?'s
        scott

        1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
        2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
        1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
        1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
        2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
        1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

        please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by grand_marquis_gt
          I wouldnt go this route, but use an old style mechanical fuel pump. You prob just need to grind out the hole on your timing cover. :hacksaw: :welder:
          Or couldn't you just find a timing cover of a 302 that was originally mechanical fuel pump? OH wait... that'd be no fun, no grinding involved :hacksaw:

          The fuel pump essentric is already in there! :banana: :jumpin: Well, in 1983 they were. Was in there last time I looked, anyway. I figure it's probably still there... lol

          And you could maybe try to sell your CFI parts to someone desparate to replace theirs with a working system. Or save them....

          Comment


            #6
            My '85 T-bird still had the fuel pump eccentric in there as well.

            Comment


              #7
              Wonder if anyone has ever put a supercharger in a lincoln



              Supercharged 302
              Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
              Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

              Comment


                #8
                You can try to save some buck here and there by using OEM pumps and regulators to provide fuel at the right pressure, but you might need to rig up a return system with it. I used a holley red and (now) a regulator with no return. I got a freak Red pump on there now that puts out twice its advertised MAX pressure :rollyes:

                When we swapped in my new cam, the old one didnt have the right plate on the end of the cam to be able to run a mechanical fuel pump pushrod. If you're going to go as far as taking the timing cover off, you might as well just put a cam in while your there. Unless you have the hole cut out of your timing cover already, just skip the mechanical pump for now and slap an electric on the framerail. When you goto change the cam you can install the right eccentrics on the cam and switch over if you want. I have some freak non-stock shortblock, so your mileage may vary in this department

                What I've done and the parts I've used have been proven to work. Edelbrock says you can use an AOD with their 4bbl's, just get the lokar throttle cable bracket and return spring kit and AOD kickdown/TV cable. I already had ported heads on the block so i "planned ahead" and used a 600cfm #1406 carb and RPM intake. Most ppl said this would be too much for my engine, but it wasnt a stock engine, I just leaned it out to suit my application. I put a cam in a few months later to make use of every other bolt on i already had. Any carb you get from a junkyard will most likely need a rebuild. Buy a new one, bolt on, and go

                Duraspark distributor and "blue connector" duraspark box are fine for your ignition. You dont need anything after market yet.

                My transmission has handled all the power i added so car. I havent even changed the fluid since i got the car 2 years ago I'm to the point where i want a shift kit and higher governor, so I'm having one built while i can still drive the car around

                I havent updated that carb swap article in awhile, so if you need info just ask



                Damn, I never write this much :slug:

                RIP Jason P Harril, we'll miss ya bro

                '80 Town Coupé
                '84 Towncar - Teh Cobra TC, 408w powered
                '16 Ram 1500 CC Outdoorsman, Hemi/3.92/8sp 4x4

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