How do these combos sound?

[BGoins12]

I'm looking for a good converter/gears/cam combo for good performance. I intend on using a Steeda cam, either a #18 or #19. I plan to use -

3.73 gears

Steeda #18 http://www.steeda.com/products/steed...t_camshaft.php

2200rpm Converter

-OR-

3.73 gears

Steeda #19 http://www.steeda.com/products/steeda_19_camshaft.php

2200rpm Converter


Anyone agree on these combos, or does anyone have a recommendation? I would appreciate any help.

[hemihotrod402]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I was told your best bet would be to look for a converter in the 2800-3k range

[Pesty351]

If its a DD I wouldn't go above a 2500. Much above that it gets really annoying really quick. Or you could go 5 speed:evil:

[BGoins12]

Yeah, my Dad looked at the RPM range on both of the cams I posted and recommended I get a 2200 stall. I might consider a 2500, but this is going to be a DD, most city driving as well.

[jayh]

If its a DD I wouldn't go above a 2500. Much above that it gets really annoying really quick. Or you could go 5 speed:evil:

no offense but this is onbviusly based on assumption and not experience

honestly, at 2200, you might as well save your money and keep the stocker

[1980c10]

It's true I had a 2200 in an old mustang and about the only thing I noticed was a lighter wallet it was a waste. Go 2800 or 3000 preferable. Also a correctly working stall does not stall out to 3k everytime you take off, or everytime you give it gas. In daily driving conditions it will act almost like a stock one. It should only go to 3k if you stop and stomp the gas and flash it to that point or bring it up to that point on the footbrake. So do 2800 or 3000 or your wasting your money. I would also suggest 4.10's or 4.30's to go with the combo, and no you won't turn 3,000,000 rpm on the highway with those gears 4.10's in overdrive going 65 mph is only around 2200-2400 rpm. I have 4.30's in my daily and love them. Just do it lol

[P72Ford]

The first cam is ground on a 112 LSA, and the second is on a 115.

The second cam is a blower cam. Wide LSA means less vacuum is bled down. A narrow LSA will move the power and torque up in rpm.

[Pirate]

no offense but this is onbviusly based on assumption and not experience

honestly, at 2200, you might as well save your money and keep the stocker

Ditto.

[Evil95GT]

I'm looking for a good converter/gears/cam combo for good performance. I intend on using a Steeda cam, either a #18 or #19. I plan to use -

3.73 gears

Steeda #18 http://www.steeda.com/products/steed...t_camshaft.php

2200rpm Converter

-OR-

3.73 gears

Steeda #19 http://www.steeda.com/products/steeda_19_camshaft.php

2200rpm Converter


Anyone agree on these combos, or does anyone have a recommendation? I would appreciate any help.

I'll chime in. I'm a multiple Mustang owner, but have been a panther fan for quite some time. I'm a former owner as well.

I agree with your idea for a combo because I actually run the Steeda #19 camshaft right now.

The Steeda #19 is a blower cam, as mentioned above. I chose this cam with the intention of adding a Kenne Bell supercharger in the future, and on this particular car, it's not something I wanted to do more than once.

This is a VERY mild cam. It has great low-end, has a nice little lope (similar to E303 camshaft), but is very stable without surging/hunting.

Because of the specs, it should work well with an SD set-up, but I can't speak from experience on this one.

The #19 corresponds well with the remainder of my combo, which is as follows.

GT40 iron heads, stage 3 ported, milled .020, 1.94 intake valves cut in; Typhoon upper/lower intake; BBK 1 5/8" shorty headers; C&L 73mm mass air meter; 24# injectors (overkill IMO); 65mm FMS throttle body; 3.73 gears; Borla side exhaust; off road h pipe.

Here's the fun part...........this car began as an AOD car. We performed a 5 speed swap mainly because that's what we're into. But as an AOD, the cam/combo worked flawlessly with a STOCK torque converter.

When I had plans for the car as an AOD, I decided a 2400 stall would be optimum, but that never happened. For those of you who ARE doing converters, stay FAR away from GER. Worst converters EVER.

There ya go. $.02 from a lurker.

-Michelle

[BGoins12]

Thanks, Michelle... and welcome to the forum by the way! It's not too often that you see women interested in cars, but I realized there are quite a few.

I decided to stick with the opinions I got and my gut feeling and I will go with the 2200 stall, mainly because it's within the range of the cam's peak torque. I was told by 2 old school drag racers that you should ALWAYS stick with a stall speed a few hundred RPMs below the peak torque RPM. Not only that, but this is going to be a daily driven, stop and go city traffic driver.

According to B&M, the stall speed should be rated at about 500-750 RPM under your engine's peak torque RPM. If you don't know this figure, be conservative in your estimate. You don't want to end up with a converter that has too high of a stall speed. Don't be too conservative, though - it is possible to get a converter with too low of a stall speed, which will have roughly the same effect as too high of a stall speed.

[Evil95GT]

IMO, the stall you chose is fine. Is it going to make a huge seat-of-the-pants diff? Probably not. But unless you're willing to go with some monster stall converter, paired with an upgraded-out-the-wazoo AOD (lentech, e.g.), you're not going to get too much out of a converter swap anyhow. Perhaps that's just my own experience, but even in our own cars, I was never happy with the aftermarket converters. Without corresponding upgrades, it just left me thinking "Yay. I spent money on this." (insert sarcasm here)

Modding any car is all about trial and error, as I'm sure you know. You'll learn lots of things along the way, some good , some bad. But if you fail to make an honest effort, you'll have difficulty achieving your goal AND learning the valuable lessons along the way. JMHO.

[jayh]

I dont know what heads and intake you are gonna run, but with those cams peak torque wont be until after 4000, probably closer to 4500

like was said, for some its a trial and error learning experience, some learn quicker than others. it your car your money your perogative

[Pirate]

My own experience?

I got a lot of cheap guys into my shop, and had to figure out early that either I had to learn how to make their cars quicker on almost zero budget, or go hungry.

For the money, I like the B&M Holeshot 2400 convertor. Yes, it really isn't all that great, and I've had a couple of problems with two of them, but in the 11 AOD cars I've installed them into (I'm going to eventually toss my last one into my T-bird, just to get a current idea as to how it 'feels' in this car), they raised stall speed just enough to help launch the car....and it was noticeable, especially for the people who insisted on installing 1 5/8th's headers and 2 1/2" exhaust systems (I went with 2 1/2" in my car, but I'm planning for more motor later on)....as these larger systems move the torque peak up higher.

With the Mustang 5.0 AOD cars, I'd recommend leaving the stock exhaust system in place, and maybe replace the stock headers with 1 1/2" pieces, along with going with a 2 1/4" off-road pipe, in addition to swapping out to 3.73's.

Box cars? Nothing larger than 2 1/4" exhaust, if you're sticking with a 302.

So far as the convertor question goes....the main reason why I like the holeshot 2400?

It gets rid of the locking stock convertor, and eliminates the hideous RPM drop during the 2-3 shift. THAT is why I like it. Nice, somewhat-even gear spread afterwards, although with the new convertor, I'd seriously recommend a huge tranny cooler and swap to Mercon V afterwards.

I don't know of any 2200-rpm units that eliminate the locking function (AOD's don't have a lock up clutch, 3-4 are splined directly the the convertor shell)....but I haven't been looking, either.

Keep in mind, that I'm only recommending this convertor for stock engine setups. I did have one customer get his AOD-equipped Mustang into the high 12's with this combo, along with subframe connectors, 3.73 gears, my 8-clutch diff mod (well, it isn't mine, lol), and drag radials. It was actually a pretty fun car to drive, and if I could get my heap thunderbird to run as well, I'd probably leave it alone afterwards.

[BGoins12]

Yeah, actually I called a local shop today, and asked their opinion. He said 2200 would be ok, but he personally recommended a 2400 as well, not only that, but if the Holeshot 2400 gets rid of that stupid 2-3 thing I can't stand as well, then by all means that's the one I am going with.

[johnunit]

in general, what does the locking function being eliminated in 3 and OD do to RPMS and fuel economy on the highway?