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    help with 351w swap

    Hi been browing for a while now and need a few opinions on my 351w swap. I have a roller cam block that .030 overbore .010 on rods and mains and currently rebuilt e7 heads, I going carb cause I'm using the FI on a mustang project. I plan to run an edelbrock performer 600 and either a performer intake or rpm intake and xe258hr-12 or xe264hr-14 cam with 1.6 roller rockers. Mallory or msd box and tfi coil, module and distributor. lokar cables and MAC 351w headers h-pipe flow tubes and flowmaster original mufflers, wide ratio aod, factory governor, 2500-3000 stall and a 3.73 track lok rear. and please lets not flame on this 32" diameter tires. Mind u this wont be a DD car. Any opinions on this set up? Any help would be great thanks.

    #2
    first of all to the jungle!

    secondly, I would read some of this thread
    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=38328
    Granted with my setup I'm going with EFI, but the engine build itself is similar, and there is some valuable insight in there from people who really know their shit.
    Last edited by hemihotrod402; 08-13-2010, 01:14 PM.
    Parts Car (Scrapped ) - Vicky - 1987 LTD Crown Victoria: 17x8 Gunmetal Gray Coys C-5 wheels, 235/55-17 Falken Ziex ZE-502 tires. 79 LTD Grille, Taillights, and Turn Signals, Blue LED Dash Lights, PI Rear Sway Bar, 140 MPH Speedometer, Dual Exhaust w/ Mustang Headers.
    New Project: Vicky II - 1981 Ford LTD: 61,XXX miles, virtually rust free. Currently For Sale

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      #3
      I would suggest a larger carb, like a 670 holley or something, but I just don't like spread bore carbs. I would go with the rpm intake, and the xe264 cam. Also to not use the factory panther shift governor, make sure you use a mustang shift governor.

      Other than that good luck.


      '90 LX 5.0 mustang
      Big plans

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        #4
        I've read through of the 351 swap post that how I pieced my set up together. I'm mostly asking if I'm on the right track. And which intake cam and stall range will give me the best low mid range set up cause I will rarely see the otherside of 6k. Oh I forgot to mention I will be using the granitelli tank insert wit 3/8 lines a electric fuel external pump return style regulator and factory pulleys and brackets.

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          #5
          I read on here with the wr-aod the mustang governor puts the shift points too high. I was told I want to be shifting around 55-5800 rpms. Is this true.

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            #6
            unless you need a tranny, I personally wouldnt bother with the wide ratio aod

            a 351 with stock e7's isnt really much of an upgrade, it really needs more cylinder head
            they can be worked to make a nice improvement, but it doesnt always make sense

            I dont mind spread bore carbs, with an edelbrock carb, Id go with a 750 avs. the standard edelbrock carbs have way to much weight on the secondary top door IMO(if you run a regular 600, most of the time it will effectively act like a 450 at WOT)

            x2 on the rpm intake
            Last edited by jayh; 08-13-2010, 02:37 PM.

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              #7
              So should I just run a new valve body in the aod? Isn't 750 a lil much for this set up? How about the Avs 650? And I plan to run Windsor Sr heads just gotta save the money maybe aluminum gt40s.

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                #8
                No a 750 isn't to much. It may not be as forgiving as a smaller carb on the tuning though.
                If you do upgrade heads most definitely go with a 750.

                Also the granatelli tank insert for a mustang wont work with these cars.

                Whats the reason for WR AOD? Need a rebuild or?


                '90 LX 5.0 mustang
                Big plans

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                  #9
                  unless I'm misunderstanding, wouldn't a stock panther governor have you shifting at less than 4500 rpm WOT? That seems waaaaaaaay low for something with a 650+CFM carb and an RPM intake.

                  85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                  160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                  waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                  06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

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                    #10
                    CID x RPM x V.E. / 3456 = CFM

                    So lets say 351 x 6500 x .85 (if you get it tuned right) / 3456= 561 cfm
                    If your shifting at 4500 as a stock panther tranny does it comes out to be 388 cfm
                    A 750 cfm carb would be waayyyy over kill for your motor.
                    1984 CV tudor 351W, 4bbl, 5-speed best time in the 1/8 8.39 at 80 with 1.80 60ft time.
                    2006 P71, 1988 Bronco II, 1986 Baby LTD(5.0 & T5 swap in progress), 1976 16' Hobie Cat, 12' AquaFinn
                    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2651997 UPDATED 20100826
                    sigpic

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by meanmercn View Post
                      Hi been browing for a while now and need a few opinions on my 351w swap. I have a roller cam block that .030 overbore .010 on rods and mains and currently rebuilt e7 heads, I going carb cause I'm using the FI on a mustang project. I plan to run an edelbrock performer 600 and either a performer intake or rpm intake and xe258hr-12 or xe264hr-14 cam with 1.6 roller rockers. Mallory or msd box and tfi coil, module and distributor. lokar cables and MAC 351w headers h-pipe flow tubes and flowmaster original mufflers, wide ratio aod, factory governor, 2500-3000 stall and a 3.73 track lok rear. and please lets not flame on this 32" diameter tires. Mind u this wont be a DD car. Any opinions on this set up? Any help would be great thanks.
                      I would recommend a TFS Stage 1 cam. You will save a few bucks and it is a proven performer with GT40 heads. Performer RPM intake and the Performer 750 carb is the combination you want if you are sticking to Edelbrock. The Performer intake is a "stock" replacement for trucks and grocery getters, not for performance applications. By the time you get to a wide ratio kit and your AOD, I recommend that you should be getting a Lentech valve body. This will add an electronic OD delete and eliminate lockup in 1-3. With this you run a factory governor so that when you grab another gear it shifts immediately.

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                        #12
                        my transmission doesn't need a rebuild, i just like the idea of a lower first gear and better OD band. im not dead set on that though, thats why im here asking for opinions this is my first build on a ford and i dont wanna go throwing money at it without a clear set idea of what i want to do

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                          #13
                          Put a 5 speed in it!
                          1984 CV tudor 351W, 4bbl, 5-speed best time in the 1/8 8.39 at 80 with 1.80 60ft time.
                          2006 P71, 1988 Bronco II, 1986 Baby LTD(5.0 & T5 swap in progress), 1976 16' Hobie Cat, 12' AquaFinn
                          http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2651997 UPDATED 20100826
                          sigpic

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Pesty351 View Post
                            CID x RPM x V.E. / 3456 = CFM

                            So lets say 351 x 6500 x .85 (if you get it tuned right) / 3456= 561 cfm
                            If your shifting at 4500 as a stock panther tranny does it comes out to be 388 cfm
                            A 750 cfm carb would be waayyyy over kill for your motor.
                            Dyno tests show otherwise....... 750 is fine unless it is an all show and no go cruiser/grocery getter.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by meanmercn View Post
                              my transmission doesn't need a rebuild, i just like the idea of a lower first gear and better OD band. im not dead set on that though, thats why im here asking for opinions this is my first build on a ford and i dont wanna go throwing money at it without a clear set idea of what i want to do
                              Dude.... it will.
                              You WILL grenade it if you upgrade the engine and ignore the old slushbox. You are taking an old car with an inherently weak transmission and adding performance to the engine. The tranny will cry in pain and self destruct.

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