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89 vic t-5 swaped issues

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    89 vic t-5 swaped issues

    hey guys i have a 89 vic with a t-5 swaped into it. i didnt do the swap and trying to fix what was done half way. my first issue is the car bucks and shakes at low rpm in a higher gear 3-5th. if the car is below 2000rpm it will start to shake. if you downshift it comes out of it.
    the second issue i have is the clutch pedal assem engages on the floor and is a add a pedal instead of the full mustang pedal swap. i ended up puting a steeda adjustable cable in it and it work for awhile but im starting to lose adjustment again. so my main question is how hard is it to put a mustang pedal assem in the car.
    my third issue is the transmission has started to make a gear noise louder than the normal growl that increases speed with the car. its mainly 1st and 2nd gear. still shifts fine just noisy.
    the car also has the stock 2.73 open which i want to change out soon. any help would be great thanx ryan

    #2
    Get 3.55 or 3.73 ASAP and that will make a huge difference in your bucking. There's too much load at low RPM for a 2.73.
    Installing a Mustang pedal assembly is a no go. Ever.

    Get some shots of your pedal assembly from multiple angles including your clutch quadrant, which should be on the right side of the pedals. Also get a shot under the hood where the clutch cable passes through. I'm a bit rusty but get us those pictures and we'll guide you from there.
    2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
    1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
    1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Freshmeat View Post
      Installing a Mustang pedal assembly is a no go. Ever.
      Umm... I used a mustang pedal. Unbolt the clutch pedal from the mustang and cut the spot welds that hold on the tube. Drill a hole in the vic pedal assy. where you what the pedal to be weld in the tube and bolt in the pedal.
      1984 CV tudor 351W, 4bbl, 5-speed best time in the 1/8 8.39 at 80 with 1.80 60ft time.
      2006 P71, 1988 Bronco II, 1986 Baby LTD(5.0 & T5 swap in progress), 1976 16' Hobie Cat, 12' AquaFinn
      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2651997 UPDATED 20100826
      sigpic

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        #4
        Originally posted by Pesty351 View Post
        Umm... I used a mustang pedal. Unbolt the clutch pedal from the mustang and cut the spot welds that hold on the tube. Drill a hole in the vic pedal assy. where you what the pedal to be weld in the tube and bolt in the pedal.
        That's the right way. They key word you're neglecting is, "ASSEMBLY."
        2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
        1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
        1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

        Comment


          #5
          Ok I gotcha. I was thinking that your were saying you couldn't use the mustang parts.
          1984 CV tudor 351W, 4bbl, 5-speed best time in the 1/8 8.39 at 80 with 1.80 60ft time.
          2006 P71, 1988 Bronco II, 1986 Baby LTD(5.0 & T5 swap in progress), 1976 16' Hobie Cat, 12' AquaFinn
          http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2651997 UPDATED 20100826
          sigpic

          Comment


            #6
            Hehe. Nope, just can't use the whole thing.
            2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
            1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
            1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

            Comment


              #7
              ya sorry for the whole spelling of assembly. ya i was looking at your write up on the t5 swap with pics mine is very close. ya im going to go with 3.73 i think but i think the t5 is going out slowly in it. its starting to make gear noises like a chatter wine as it increases speed. heres some pics of it might be hard to see if you need more ill take some.



              you can see this is what the kid before me did to install the cable on the firewall. since i have installed a steeda cable and bolted the cable to the firewall. the other issue im having is it seem like the cable is to long. do any of you have pictures of how you routed the cable in the engine bay.

              Comment


                #8
                For the cable, it has to be tight in the engine bay. If it's loose it'll flop around and not engage right. There should be a bracket halfway along the cable... Find somewhere to bolt it down leaving it tight, but not with such a sharp curve it binds. That should resolve your engagement issues. You said you did bolt the firewall piece down? That also makes a difference. Bottom line, the cable should not be allowed to flop around.

                Some will say to go 3.55, but I think 3.73s would add that little boost you need.

                Is this car converted to HO yet?
                2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
                1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
                1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

                Comment


                  #9
                  the bracket is bolted to the inner fender which is plastic. so i ended up puting a bungy cord on it so it doesnt rip it off. kind of redneck but it works. the car isnt coverted to ho yet i want to drop a mustang motor in at some point. so right now its just stock. ya i think 3.73 will be good. my buddy has a 03 mustang and he went to 4.11 or 4.12 cant remember what it is for the 8.8 and he said it doesnt do bad on highway so im thinking 3.73 would be a good choice since im under powered with the whole 170hp.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Plastic inner fender and bungee cord won't cut it. Worst case, get some heavy duty zip ties for it.
                    Either go 3.73 or HO ASAP and it'll be a whole new car. Don't rev the stock motor over 4500 RPM. Lots of information here about the HO conversion. Just read and learn. You'll get the hang of it.
                    2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
                    1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
                    1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      yes, complete the beast!
                      Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                      'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                      sigpic
                      85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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                        #12
                        ya i will try and figure out something for holding the cable better. im on a small budget right now so its geting 3.73 open and the t5 rebuilt.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Price the rebuild on the T5- you may be able to get one through Summit or corral.net cheaper. Also watch Corral for 3.73s- you can usually find them used for around $50-75 there. Same for the traclock unit. Spend the extra $50 and do the traclock when you do the gears or you're going to pay the labor all over again to get the traclock installed. You can use a stock Mustang 8.8 28-spline traclock unit.
                          2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
                          1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
                          1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            thanks for the advice for corral.net bought a traclok for 75 bucks from one guy still looking for gears. got alot of work to do and hope its worth all the money.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              It will be. It takes a lot of patience but you'll get there. Good luck with it and feel free to ask away if you have any more questions.
                              2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
                              1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
                              1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

                              Comment

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