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    Time for a fluid drain/refill/filter

    So, does my 2009 4R75W have a torque converter drain?

    I've also heard capacity is 12 quarts. I will be using AMSOIL to refill it, and am told a 4 oz bottle of Ford friction modifier is a good idea too. Hell, I am even considering the J Mod but I haven't found anyone who's done it on an 09 to get advice from.

    Discuss.
    1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
    Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!


    #2
    My Dad's '99 4R70W didn't have a drain plug. I wouldn't imagine your 75 would.

    My uncle has an '01 or '02 F150 with the 4R70W, and it did have a drain plug. So it may have been hit or miss while they were phasing them out.

    In the event you don't have a converter drain, it takes like 5-6 quarts, I think (just a pan drain). I put 12.5 quarts (if I remember right) into my AOD, with the cooler, after a pan and converter drain. You can't get all of the fluid out, though, although a pan and converter change gets almost all of it out. I used to raise the rear of the car way up to get more out of the pan and converter.

    Most new stuff doesn't have a drain plug in the converter (which is dumb, in my opinion)..

    I thought I remembered hearing that some newer Fords had "no service" transmissions. Lifetime fluid, etc, etc. Does yours have a dipstick/ fill provision?
    Last edited by P72Ford; 09-03-2010, 09:02 AM.
    **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
    **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
    **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
    **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

    Comment


      #3
      The most current info from Jerry W was for 2003-2004 models, I personally know it works on up to 2006 models, not sure about anything newer, however I would assume its the same.

      basically you drop the valve body, remove the separator plate and drill holes #2/4/5/9 and 11 with a 7/64" drill bit and remove the 1-2 accumulator lower spring and 2-3 accumulator spring. drilling hole #10 is optional.
      T/con drain plug stopped sometime about 2002, some had it , some didn't

      Dropping the pan and removing the valve body removes 10 qts of fluid from the transmission, personally I only recommend using Mercon V fluid, even more so if the car still under warranty.
      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      here is the write up;

      "Ignore what the article says and do this...
      >
      > Remove the bottom 1-2 accumulator spring and remove the bottom 2-3
      > accumulator spring.
      >
      > For holes do this.
      >
      > Hole #2 is the intermediate clutch feed (1-2 shift). Make this hole in the
      > .100"-.110" range. It should be .081" in your plate right now.
      > Hole #10 is the reverse clutch feed. Totally optional. If you want it to
      > engage into reverse faster when you move the lever, open this up to .093".
      > Holes #4 & 5 are the direct clutch feed (2-3 shift). Open both of these
      > holes up to .100"-.110".
      > Holes #9 and 11 are the forward clutch feed (4-3/4-2 shift). Make both of
      > these .100-.110" as well.
      >
      > So, it looks like you need a drill of around .100" and you should be good.
      > When you open up holes 4&5 make sure the hole in the gasket between the
      > separator plate and valve body casting, is large enough. These holes are a
      > little small.
      >
      > jerry"


      Figure 1
      Tools:
      3/8 drive inch pound torque wrench
      3/8 to 1/4 drive adapter
      snap ring/retaining ring pliers
      Deep well 10mm socket (1/4” drive)
      Standard depth 8mm socket (1/4” drive)
      Pliers
      Cordless drill with clutch
      Drill Press (or drill) and drill bits (separator plate mod)
      Oil drain pan
      Exacto knife or razor blade
      (2) Separator Plate Gaskets
      1W7Z-7D100-AB
      1L3Z-7C155-AA
      -Note: about 2.00 each
      transmission fluid filter (Motorcraft FT105)-d
      approximately 8 quarts of transmission fluid (Mercon V!)-d
      Dielectric Grease
      Vaseline
      Carb or brake cleaner
      Sanding stone or knife sharpening stone
      Jack, Stands, Lights
      Step I:
      Disconnect the transmission cooler return line where it changes from a hose to a steel line.
      There are two lines coming out of the cooler, you want the upper one. Follow it down; it
      should still be the upper line at the point of change.
      Note: Look under the passenger side, it is in between the frame and the lower crank pulley. A
      quick squeeze of the pliers to move the clamp and you’re done.
      Have someone hold it steady and point it into an oil pan. Start the car and let it idle while
      the transmission fluid is pumped out in a continuous stream. Shut the car off as soon as the
      stream starts to sputter or the flow decreases significantly.
      Re-attach the transmission cooler line.
      Note: This would be a great time to drain the torque converter if you like.
      Step II:
      Jack up the front of the car and place it on jack stands for safety.
      Step III:
      Remove the transmission pan by loosening the 14, 10mm pan bolts.
      You’re best bet is to use a cordless drill with a 1/4 “ socket drive adapter and a deep well
      10mm ¼” drive socket (you use a ¼” drive because anything larger will not fit between the
      frame and the rear of the pan.
      Drop the pan
      There will be very little fluid left in the pan. You can let it down carefully without fear of
      spillage. The messy part comes later.
      4 - 5 items should fall into the pan; a little yellow plastic plunger (discard, it was a temporary plug from the factory), the 2-3 accumulator spring (set aside it does not go back
      in), a metal base for the spring (save), possibly the 2 – 3 shift accumulator itself (a larger
      plunger with a smaller diameter top and larger diameter bottom, and oval shaped filter.
      Remove the filter; remember to pull out the rubber grommet as it usually sticks.
      Step IV:
      Remove the valve body
      Prep: layout a canvas under your car, layout a couple of paper towels under the car to set
      the valve body on later, layout a couple of paper towels on your workbench to receive the valve body once it is removed.
      Start by removing the black plastic harness from the valve body. It snaps into place in 3-4 locations and is removed with a slight tug at each connection point.
      Towards the upper right, remove the bolt with the rooster comb spring (has a roller attached to it ), makes sure to keep the bolt in the hole of the spring as to not lose the orientation of
      either piece.
      Adjacent to this is another bolt with a metal bracket, remove this in a like manner.
      Now take a look at the valve body and notice that there are two types of bolts; those with
      8mm heads and those with 10mm heads. Do not concern yourself with the 10mm bolts. Look
      closely at the 8mm heads and you will notice that the ones in the middle section (plate
      section) will be a bit longer than those on the periphery. When putting them back, the longer
      ones go in the plated section and the shorter ones go around the periphery.
      Remove the periphery bolts (using a cordless drill, an a 8mm socket)
      Note the position of the manual valve. It is the piston looking thing and has a notch in it in
      which a pin on the detent lever resides.
      Remove the bolts in the plated section, all but one in the center most section.
      Now get your drain pan ready as here comes the tranny fluid shower
      Slowly back out the last bolt about a quarter of an inch and wiggle the valve body slightly so
      that tranny fluid starts flowing.
      Let this drain for 15 – 20 minutes (should be about 3-4 quarts).
      Once the fluid has drained, or you get tired of waiting, hold up the valve body and unscrew
      that last bolt. Hold it firmly and be prepared as it is heavy than it looks and if your car is not
      jacked up high enough you will have little leverage.
      Place the valve body on your workbench, gasket side up.
      Step V:
      Disassembly and Modification.
      Use an exacto knife or razorblade to lift a corner of the gasket and remove carefully.
      Note the orientation of the two reinforcement plates (circles with 4 bolts each)
      Remove the 4 bolts from each plate with a 10mm socket and place on a paper towel in the same pattern as they were prior to removal.
      Remove the one 10mm bolt that holds the separator plate in place.
      Remove the two plates and place them in the same orientation they were prior to removal (clean with carb or brake cleaner).
      Remove the separator plate and clean with carb or brake cleaner.
      Drill the holes as prescribed in Jerry’s document (Figure 1)
      I drilled mine to the following specs:
      Holes #2, #4, #5, #9, #11 – 7/64 drill bit
      Hole #10 – 3/32 drill bit
      Deburr your drillings with a sanding stone
      Remove the remaining gaskets off the valve body
      Place the new gasket on the valve body
      Clean the separator plate and reinstall
      Install the new top gasket
      Reinstall the circular reinforcement plates (torque to 90 inch pounds)
      Clean the entire valve body paying attention to any electrical connectors
      Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the electrical connectors.
      It is now ready for re-installation.
      Step VI:
      Under the car; clean the transmission internals with carb or brake cleaner, paying attention to any electrical connectors.
      Using the snap ring/retaining ring pliers remove the snap ring from the 1-2 shift accumulator (the round hole on the drivers side front corner [towards the front of the car])
      Watch out as this ring holds a cover with a spring behind it that is under tension.
      Remove the spring.
      Replace the cover and the snap ring.
      Apply dielectric grease to any electrical connectors.
      Clean the oval filter screen that came out during disassembly and apply a small amount of Vaseline on the black plastic (top) and place it back up in the tranny. There is only one place
      for it to go towards the rear right corner. If you look up you will see a space the shape of the black plastic top (a rectangular shape).
      The 2-3 shift accumulator may have fallen during the valve body removal. Place it and the spring plate back into the 2-3 shift accumulator hole. The accumulator goes in small end top,
      large end bottom. Press it into the hole slightly. Then install the old round spring base; one side is relatively flat and the other has a point; the point goes down. You may have to bend
      the tabs out on this piece ever so slightly to get it to stay up in the hole.
      Step VII:
      Now reinstall the valve body.
      Pay close attention to the manual valve (piston looking thing) remember the pin on the detent arm must go just behind the head of the piston.
      Hold the valve body up and place one of the long bolts as close to the center as possible.
      Reinstall the rooster comb spring and metal bracket in their respective locations.
      You can now start the remaining bolts by hand; just a few turns to make sure they are
      seated properly and not cross threaded.
      Set your cordless drill to the lowest clutch setting (lightest) and set all bolts; using the included bolt pattern diagram at the end of this document (Figure 2)
      Now torque all bolts to 90 inch pounds using the included bolt pattern document (Figure 2).
      Reinstall the black plastic electrical connector, snap it firmly into place and make sure that
      each contact point is seated and secure.
      Install a new tranny filter (coat the seal with a little tranny fluid).
      Step VIII:
      Reattach the transmission fluid pan (using the original multi-use gasket unless it is damaged).
      You can now start the remaining bolts by hand; just a few turns to make sure they are seated properly and not cross threaded.
      Set your cordless drill to the lowest clutch setting (lightest) and set all bolts (10mm).
      Now torque all bolts to 120 inch pounds.
      Step IX:
      Measure the amount of fluid drained from the system (should be about 8 quarts).
      Fill the transmission through the dip stick tube by the measured amount.
      Confirm your results!
      Hold the brake, start your engine, move the shifter through the gear selections, and allow your car to warm up while checking for anything out of the ordinary.
      Check for leaks.
      Follow precautionary measures and confirm your good work!
      Attached Files
      Last edited by 88grandmarq; 09-04-2010, 01:39 PM.
      2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
      89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
      88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006


      I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

      Comment


        #4
        pass on the amsoil and magic potion. Use real Mercon V.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment


          #5
          2001 was the last year for the TC drain.

          I have Jmodded a 2005, Lather rinse repeat. He loves it.

          Comment

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