1990 TC MAF conversion questions

[Neal 97 250]

A brief description:
1990 TC LOPO engine with a knock... Now sitting in the shop floor. LOL.
I have a 2000 Explorer 302 GT40p engine that will be here early next week. I am going to do a MAF conversion for future mods. Cam, etc. (different thread coming). I am looking for guidance. I have read plenty on LoL, SBFtech, FordFI.com and lots on here. I am just trying to put all this info I have recently learned together for this big car.

What I have to work from:
1995 TC Limo that I can rape pillage and plunder.
Junkyard with no engines next door to my house but lots of cars.

1 - I have pulled the MAF from the '95 it is a 77mm. That is a good start right?

2 - I have pulled the TB from the 4.6 also. It is a 70mm. Will I be able to use this on the explorer engine or should I use what comes with the explorer and what size should it be?

3 - The '95 Limo TC has yellow injectors. They are a darker yellow but yellow nonetheless. What size are these? I have seen info on the orange ones but not yellow.

4 - Should I pull the engine side plug of the ECM of the '95 for the MAF swap? If so should I just cut all the wires at the plug or pull the entire engine harness to save the plugs and all wires?
(I noticed the TPS has a different plug on the TB

This will get me started but I have plenty more questions.
Thanks in advance,
Neal

[85crownHPP]

2 - i think the explorer TB is the same size

3 - those are the orange 19#s, same as whats on the explorer motor, they will work.

4 - the '95 Lincoln ECM wiring isn't going to help, except for the MAF sensor pigtail if that sensor will work

[gadget73]

1) yep, it'll work

2) 4.6 throttle body won't fit up to a 5.0

3) should be orange or maybe a yellow-orange, but the 4.6 sohc has the useful 19# injector you want.

4) harness for parts may not be a bad idea. Leave it as intact as you can. If you can pull the MAF wiring out in one piece from the ECM out to the sensor, it will make installing it easier and cleaner.

[Neal 97 250]

OK Gadget, I can pull the harness but what connections should I keep on the harness?
If All I need is the MAF sensor that will be easy. Are you sure that is the only conection I will need?

You also said SOHC on the 4.6 injectors. This has a cam on each head. Is that what youmean?
I plan to rob those injectors tomorrow.

Anything else I can rob from that vehicle before I send it to the crusher?

[86VickyLX]

It doesn't hurt to have extra ECM pins lol. SOHC one cam over each head yes. If you're getting the 2000 explorer engine, are you getting the whole thing? Including intake and stuff? If you are, I wouldn't be worried about the throttle body, as you'd have one. Use the injectors from the limo. They're the same connector style as your injector harness on your '90. The 2000 ones have a different plugs on the injectors. Get new o rings for the injectors, since you're gonna need to pull them off the fuel rail and put them on your '90 fuel rail.

Also realise that you won't have a working EGR system with that intake set up. No integral EGR. Some people say that that's a good thing. I call bullshit since it lowers combustion chambers and only comes on when you're not accelerating. '96 and most '97 explorer 5.0s have the intakes with the integral egr passages. Like our stock ones. Also the throttle bodies on those years will accept the stock vic/towncar/grand marquis tps, and also has an elbow for the valve cover breather for the pcv system.

[Neal 97 250]

Yes I am getting the whole engine. I was told it has the intakes and exhaust manifolds still on it. They pretty much lift the engine up and cut anything that is attached to the vehicle. LOL

I know I won't have an EGR. What should I do for this? Is there anything different I need to do?
I am going to cut the tubes from the air pump and seal up the exhaust for now. Atleast till I get the duals going.

Maybe I will pull most of the harness. That way I will have plenty of wire connected to each pin. Remove and save what I don't use. Anybody need an ECM from a '95?

[86VickyLX]

I know I won't have an EGR. What should I do for this? Is there anything different I need to do?

If you want a functional EGR valve, there are two routes you can take. 1) being you get a '96/'97 Explorer GT40 Intake. These have the integeral egr ports
http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=21935&stc=1&d=1270340787
like so. The round hole between the 8 intake runners. That's a sign of the integral EGR ports. Where you can use your stock Towncar EGR valve ( a lot cleaner in my opinion).
Lightning 351w egr spacers are perfect for this (hard to come by though). And it allows you to bolt up the stock throttle linkage bracket. Someone on here made a Mustang egr spacer work by fabbing some brackets to make the stock linkage attach.
2) The other route is an egr valve with an external exhaust pipe from your exhaust to the egr valve, it will work just the same, but now you got that ugly pipe.

If your state has emissions/ and visual inspection, I'd at least have the egr valve there for looks, if nothing else. Make it appear to be hooked up. I would still recommend you to have a functional egr.

[Neal 97 250]

No emissions here at all. Will not need egr. Thanks for the info.

[Neal 97 250]

Another question;
I know I need a computer from a '89-'93 mustang (Hard to find BTW)
Why can't I use one from an Explorer?

[85crownHPP]

Explorer ECM is shaped different, its connector is different, its wiring is different, its ignition system is different...

[Neal 97 250]

So I guess it is different huh? LOL

Ok. Back on the hunt. Man these computers are hard to find. Unless you want one for a 4 cyl 2.3L

[Neal 97 250]

I found one. Does this look like what I need?

Stock Number: 7XH23190W
Fits: 1993 Ford Mustang
Ignition control; 8-302, 5.0L, Automatic Transmission
Description: Engine Computer
IGN, E7DFAZA
Condition: 109K
Warranty: 6-Month

[gadget73]

sounds like it should be what you need.


The EGR, well if you don't need it, the easy way is to get one of those egr eliminator plug things that just plugs in where the egr valve sensor should be, and forget about it. If you need it for visual, bolt up the egr sensor and just don't route any vacuum to it so it can't open.

[Neal 97 250]

I may actually have an EGR afterall. I will just have to see once I get the new engine. From what I have heard it doesn't really provide a hinderance to performance. It may cause bad idle and poor fuel mileage if it is disconnected from what I have read.

Thanks for the input guys.

[gadget73]

The egr is not open at idle or WOT. Its only opened at part throttle cruise speeds. You will get slightly improved fuel economy and reduced emissions with it working, but generally speaking the engine doesn't actually run any different. I run egr because I have the proper equipment on the car, but for a brief time I had it unhooked because of other issues and it made no difference that I could see.

[86VickyLX]

That and the engine runs generally cooler with it. Since the EGR lowers combustion chamber temperatures.

[Neal 97 250]

Thanks guys for your help. I will see about the EGR most likely will keep it on if it is easy enough to make work. I am sure it is.

But now new questions.
Well kinda the same ...

I removed the engine harness from the '95. Did not cut any wires, just unplugged everything. Not a bad job getting it out. Saved the ECM as well for whatever reason.

Now, I spent an hour or more stripping down the harness. Concentrating on getting the MAF wiring out but had to strip everything to do that. Now, There are two wires I have a question about The red wire and the black wire with the white tracer. They go thru the harness and connect with 4 or 5 other wires of the same color. They both have a lead that goes to the 3pack of relays. One relay in particular. It is the EEC relay.

Should I try to keep the relays part of the harness I am using or should I cut all ties and just leave the pins in the donor plug? I can take a pic and post tomorrow night if that helps.

The red wire has leads that go to just abut every plug on the harness. The black wire with white tracer goes to alot of them too.

Thanks,
Neal

[gadget73]

You don't need the relays. The red wire will splice to the ECM + wire somewhere. Thats what you're seeing at the relays. The black wire should be the ground, which also should splice into another existing ground. Mostly you just want the two data wires that go to pins on the ECM connector intact.

[Neal 97 250]

Yup. Thsat is what I figured after I had time to sit down and think on it some. The red and black wires go to the ECM and they splice off and go to other sensors/relays etc. All I need to retain is the pins on the ECM that go to the MAF and splice the red and black wires into the same wires on the existing vehicle. Then all other pins will come from the other pcm plug.

[86VickyLX]

The red and black wires go to the ECM
No, the red and black wires go to power and ground respectively.
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=6
Farthest right wire is the red wire, next to that is the black ground, and the other two are the pcm pins.

[Neal 97 250]

Thanks. They also go to the ECM and quite a few other places as well. They are spliced together with about 4-5 other red and black wires respectively.
You can see in that diagram you linked that the red wire goes to the LH and RH O2 sensors as well.

[86VickyLX]

Thanks. They also go to the ECM and quite a few other places as well. They are spliced together with about 4-5 other red and black wires respectively.
You can see in that diagram you linked that the red wire goes to the LH and RH O2 sensors as well.
Yes, power and ground, you don't necessarily need to use the power and ground from the computer. I'm mounting mine with a ground, and just a wire tapped into the ecm relay. Which is basically where those red wires come from anyway.

[gadget73]

the directions that come with the kits have you tap ECM + and - inside the connector just because its convenient. The + feed does go all over the place though. Just tap into it wherever is convenient for you to do so and it will work fine. I would probably tie the ground into one of the ground wires coming off the ECM just to be absolutely sure there is no goofy voltage differential across the body sheetmetal but thats just me being paranoid. Also, I've seen how these cars run with a bad ECM ground and its not pretty.

[Neal 97 250]

That's kind of where I figured I would be heading. I will probably strip enough back on the harness to tap in at the same spot as originally.

I just found out my engine came in yesterday. Chomping at the bit to go get it!
Just curious, aren't the newer Explorers distributorless or am I wrong?

[85crownHPP]

correct

[gadget73]

distributorless indeed. They have coil packs, probably the same ones the 4.6 cars use. Theres gonna be a funny looking sensor in the hole where the distributor belongs. Remove that and the distributor will fit.

[Neal 97 250]

Thanks guys. I was a bit worried about that but you guys haven't steered me wrong yet. So remove the sensor and instal the distributor? Good to know that even with no distributor the gear is still on the cam. Right???

BTW I got into contact with some programming Guru in Knoxville. He recommended I get a newer EEC from a mustang maybe 2000 or so model. He can take the EEC and change the cubic inch programming and maybe use the coil packs and MAF etc. Have you ever heard of this? Pros? Cons?
sounds like I would still run two brains for the cruise. Is that all I need the second EEC for or does it control more? Tranny, etc???

[gadget73]

yeah, the sensor has the gear. it drives the oil pump shaft just like the distributor does. Thats probably more why its there. A cam sensor isn't really that useful but having an oil pump that operates is kind of important.


Getting the wiring for an obd2 system installed will be a lot more involved. The computers are more flexible but its a lot of wiring. It would also have to be distributorless.


TO make cruise work with the 89-93 Mustang ecm, you need to keep the stock ecm for cruise, and use the Mustang brain for the engine. Transmission has no electronics, its just a dumb hydraulic unit.

[Neal 97 250]

Another question. I got the exploder engine today. Starting to strip it down now. Funny thing, it was made 1-3-2000 and in a 2001 explorer. It is the GT40p with the 4 bar heads. Now, it has the tan colored injectors. I thought it would have the orange ones didn't you guys?

Anyway I have a Mark VII ECM on the way. That will be just plug and play but the injectors are my concern. When I saw the tan injectors I thought I would just use the stock computer to get it fired andf running but if I am not mistaken the firing order will be screwed up. Am I correct?

So I will probably pull the yellow/orange injectors from the '95 TC and use the Mark VII computer and fire it up with that. Does that sound OK?

Then I can do the MAF conversion once I find an ECM. I have had a terrible time finding a mustang ECM from '89-'93. They are just not out there.

I have thought about using a newer model ECM from a mustang late '90's from a 4.6L. The reprogramming it for the 5.0 cid displacement. Then using the distributorless ignition. It will take some programming but I have someone who can do that for me in Knoxville. What do you think? Has anybody you know of ever done that or something similiar???

[86VickyLX]

Another question. I got the exploder engine today. Starting to strip it down now. Funny thing, it was made 1-3-2000 and in a 2001 explorer. It is the GT40p with the 4 bar heads. Now, it has the tan colored injectors. I thought it would have the orange ones didn't you guys?

Anyway I have a Mark VII ECM on the way. That will be just plug and play but the injectors are my concern. When I saw the tan injectors I thought I would just use the stock computer to get it fired andf running but if I am not mistaken the firing order will be screwed up. Am I correct?

So I will probably pull the yellow/orange injectors from the '95 TC and use the Mark VII computer and fire it up with that. Does that sound OK?

Then I can do the MAF conversion once I find an ECM. I have had a terrible time finding a mustang ECM from '89-'93. They are just not out there.

I have thought about using a newer model ECM from a mustang late '90's from a 4.6L. The reprogramming it for the 5.0 cid displacement. Then using the distributorless ignition. It will take some programming but I have someone who can do that for me in Knoxville. What do you think? Has anybody you know of ever done that or something similiar???


The injectors are fine as long as the electrical plugs are the same. The newer style could be used but the wiring harness would have to be modified for the injector connectors. They're still the 19# injectors though. You can run the Mark VII computer for the time being until you find the mass air computer. Just a heads up though, you'll more than likely experience the same stuff that my car, and GMGT's project '79 had problems with. Popping and backfiring.

It will run. But if it does start popping, here's what I recommend. Let the engine idle, it will go through a weird idle thing everytime you start the car up. It doesn't matter if it's hot or cold outside, the engine is warm or not. You'll know when it's happening, the engine will be running fine, then out of nowhere, it idles really poorly, it goes to the point of almost stalling, then the idle will come back up, and idle smoothly, no popping backfiring, or poor acceleration. You don't let it do this, it's gonna pop everytime you drive it after it's been running for a few minutes.
The only fixes I know of is a mass air conversion, or a carb conversion, since the engine ran well on both.

[Neal 97 250]

I thought the Mark VII was a common swap for the ECM to run 19# injectors.
What causes the poor run sequence?
Will the computer eventually learn and stop doing this?

I did some research and the tan ones I have are in fact 19# injectors. They used them in 2000 & 2001. They have the thin bodies like the yellow ones I have from the '95. They are X52E-A2B
The 17# ones I have in the '90 motor are tan too but they are a bigger, thicker body.

[86VickyLX]

I thought the Mark VII was a common swap for the ECM to run 19# injectors.
What causes the poor run sequence?
Will the computer eventually learn and stop doing this?

I did some research and the tan ones I have are in fact 19# injectors. They used them in 2000 & 2001. They have the thin bodies like the yellow ones I have from the '95. They are X52E-A2B
The 17# ones I have in the '90 motor are tan too but they are a bigger, thicker body.
HA you got me, I don't know what causes it. If I had to guess it's the programming of the ecm, a stock HO E7 heads vs the GT40P head air flow. Mark VII uses vacuum to determine fuel delivery, 20" of vacuum for a stock HO is X amount of air flowing into the engine. 20" of vacuum for a GT40P is Y amount of air. In short the Mark VII computer makes it run lean. Mass air actually measures the amount of air coming into the engine, and making a more accurate fuel delivery amount.

No the computer will not learn this. You'd have to let it idle.

Gadget has said that he has heard of cars run with this set up with a Mark VII ECM and no problems, others like mine and GMGT, they don't like it.

The '90 motor should have 13# injectors (Lopos got 13# unless the '90 Towny is special which it very well may be). If the plugs are the same on the '90 injectors and your '00 injectors then you don't have to modify anything. If they are different use the ones from the limo.

[Neal 97 250]

They are different. I was thinking of using the ones from the EX enginge but as soon as I touched every one of the plugs to pull it off the injector the little lock snapped off the plug. Now, the plug will stay on with the o-ring but the clip is now gone. So I think I will use the ones from th '95. they probably just need cleaning up a tad.

Next question... I saw a thread or something about cleaning and rebuilding these injectors but can't find it now. Anybody seen that? I am looking for guidance on how to clean the injectors.

Also, the fuel rails are different on these two engines. Not a big deal but the old '90 rail had two connections. I assume feed and return??? The '00 had only one. Now, I can use the old lines and tie them in just fine but that leads to yet another question... Will the stock '90 fuel pump be able to keep up? It looks like the new systen is a dead head system and the old one is a return setup. Can the old pump keep up and will it be able to maintain the correct pressure?

Another question... I will need gaskets and alot of them. Everything from upper intake to oil pickup and oil pan. The front cover and the waterpump, exhaust manifolds too and probably somemore. Did you guys just get a whole engine gasket set or just order what you need? Where did you find the best deals?

Thanks guys,
Do you think I need to start another thread for the engine swap and everything from here forward?

Neal

[Neal 97 250]

Next question... I saw a thread or something about cleaning and rebuilding these injectors but can't find it now. Anybody seen that? I am looking for guidance on how to clean the injectors.

Also, the fuel rails are different on these two engines. Not a big deal but the old '90 rail had two connections. I assume feed and return??? The '00 had only one. Now, I can use the old lines and tie them in just fine but that leads to yet another question... Will the stock '90 fuel pump be able to keep up? It looks like the new systen is a dead head system and the old one is a return setup. Can the old pump keep up and will it be able to maintain the correct pressure?

Another question... I will need gaskets and alot of them. Everything from upper intake to oil pickup and oil pan. The front cover and the waterpump, exhaust manifolds too and probably somemore. Did you guys just get a whole engine gasket set or just order what you need? Where did you find the best deals?

Thanks guys,
Do you think I need to start another thread for the engine swap and everything from here forward?

Neal
Anybody have any input on this?
Just looking for your guidance and experiences.

[gadget73]

I tried cleaning injectors using the method on fordfuelinjection, and I couldn't tell any difference. May have been that my injectors weren't crapped up so there wasn't much change to be seen.


Engine sets tend to come with the 4 piece cork oil pan gaskets and cork valve cover gaskets, neither of which I really like much. The last couple engines I put together we ended up buying different pan and vc gaskets to get better quality stuff. You may want to price out the engine kit, plus a one piece oil pan and the Permadry valve cover gaskets vs just buying the stuff seperate to see which is cheaper.

yes, the 90 has a feed and a return. I wasn't aware they ever went single line on the Explorer, but the newest Explorer motor I've ever monkeyed with was a 97 or 98. I know those rails had dual lines because we used one on the 5.0 92 Grand Marquis. Yeah the 90 pump should keep up fine. If you ever replace it, it wouldn't hurt to upgrade it but it'll run an HO or Explorer motor.

[Neal 97 250]

Thanks for the reminder on the cork gaskets. I found an upper kit for $71.99 and a conversin kit for the bottom end for $41.99. Sounds like a good price but maybe not if it comes with corks. I will take a look. The entire engine kit is around $280.00.

I may clean the injectors like on Fordfuelinjection. Thanks for tha BTW I forgot where I read it. I have read so many forums on this build I get lost sometimes. BUT I always come back home to here. LOL.
Since I am on the somewhat budget thing right now I may just try cleaning them without getting all new o-rings. I have a set that look pretty good and still pliable.

Yes I thought it odd aabout the single line on the Explorer but I can use my old rails. And what is the upgrade on the fuel pump if I ever replace it? Is it an aftermarket or one from a newer car?

Thanks again Gadget

[86VickyLX]

Thanks for the reminder on the cork gaskets. I found an upper kit for $71.99 and a conversin kit for the bottom end for $41.99. Sounds like a good price but maybe not if it comes with corks. I will take a look. The entire engine kit is around $280.00.

I may clean the injectors like on Fordfuelinjection. Thanks for tha BTW I forgot where I read it. I have read so many forums on this build I get lost sometimes. BUT I always come back home to here. LOL.
Since I am on the somewhat budget thing right now I may just try cleaning them without getting all new o-rings. I have a set that look pretty good and still pliable.

Yes I thought it odd aabout the single line on the Explorer but I can use my old rails. And what is the upgrade on the fuel pump if I ever replace it? Is it an aftermarket or one from a newer car?

Thanks again Gadget
The later explorers went to a returnless fuel injection set up, hence the one fuel line.

Replace the o rings they are cheap insurance, I got two boxes (8 in each) for less than 20 bucks on Summit. It wasn't that bad, and it came with the o ring installers.

Get a stock replacement pump. They are rated at 44gpm which is like 166lph, and it fits in the stock housing without modification. You shouldn't need anymore than that.

My engine kit for my explorer engine came with cork gaskets, I requested rubber gaskets, and I got that for the oil pan, but the valve cover gaskets were cork, and didn't even fit the heads anyway.

[Neal 97 250]

Yup it looks like $15 will do all 8. Then again I could get a set with the screen filters for $25 plus $7 shipping from rjminjectiontech.
http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=27

I may just go with o-rings for the insurance and take a good look at and clean the filters.

[Neal 97 250]

OK so now you aint gonna believe this shit.
I check my e-mail just after I replied above. And I have an e-mail from Summit. They say I have Summit bucks about to expire in a month. $20.00 bucks worth.
Hmmm??? I go to Summit and order two sets of o-rings ($15.00) and shipping ($4.95). Total $19.95. Submit my Summit bucks and get the o-rings for free with 5 cents left over.
Somebody must be watching over me.
What are the chances we discuss getting o-rings and low and behold here comes a way for me to get them for free. Kooolll


Also I want to thank you guys.
You guys are about the only ones I have to discuss this project with that have any amount of knowledge on it. Everybody I talk to just start to glaze over once I start to bring it up. LOL.
So, Thanks for chatting with me and for your help keeping me on track and not forget anything.

Neal

[gadget73]

I've been having people's eyes glaze over for many many years whenever I talk about my goofy projects. I understand that feeling very well. Its also why I tend to not talk about what I have going on lol.

[slymer]

better to just do and show off the results than let the crowd know sometimes.

[Neal 97 250]

I agree about the shut up and show off but sometimes I need reassurance form someone who knows.

speaking of which...
I have been looking at my throttle and kickdown linkage connections. This is going to take some modification for sure. But I am curious what you guys that did the Explorer swap did. The EGR delete is very simple. The Explorer has a 90* tube that points the TB forward. That is where the EGR is. I just disconnect and plug the hole for it, no prob. Now about the linkage, did you guys use the 90* elbow or delete it and set up the TB linkage like it was on the Lopo setup?

I am kind of partial to the 90* elbow kinda like a velocity stack. But the linkage will be challenging whether I use it or not.

Now if I do not use the 90* elbow and do use the Lopo model EGR plate the linkage will be simple. I can swap the linkage connections on the two TB's but the EGR plate is SUPER small compared to the new TB. The old TB was small and the new one is very large compared. This would restrict any airflow and negate the upgrade in TB's. Just looking for suggestions.
I am sure I will figure out a way to go about it but what did you do? Is there a simple way to go about this that I am overlooking?

Right now I have been just cleaning and painting everything. Hopefully this will be a very nice looking install and you guys will be proud. Block is blue. front cover will be silver or grey. water pump still undecided. Lincoln logs are silver, intakes will be painted a silver hammered paint job. hopefully I can get the A/C unit cleaned up and painted too. The alternator is my issue on paint. I hate a painted alt when someone paints it and the wire coild inside too. Looks very unprofessional. Maybe I will disassemble the alt then just paint the housing. We'll see what time allows. VC's unsure on the color yet, suggestions?

P.S. I know I owe you guys pics in a real bad way. I need to get the camera out of the shop and in the house so I can give you a glimpse. Sorry I am slow about that but I promise they will come soon.

Thanks again,
Neal

[gadget73]

toss the elbow. Take the Explorer throttle body and grind on the shaft where it goes through the lever until the "mushroom" is gone and you can pop the lever off. Do the same with your stock throttle body. Install the stock throttle body lever onto the Explorer piece and tack weld it together. Done.

The problem with the lopo egr plate is getting it to seal between a GT40 intake and the Explorer throttle body. There just isn't enough material there once you have it bored out to match the throttle body. Since you're not running EGR though, you may be able to fill the space between the inner bore and the outer casting with some sort of material (JB Weld?) and still get a proper seal once the stock spacer is bored out. Other options involve modding a Mustang spacer to bolt up the stock throttle bracket and having it bored out, or finding the increasingly rare and not terribly cheap 93-95 Ford Lightning part.

[Neal 97 250]

I kind of planned on the grinding/tack welding thing.

But my biggest problem will be the bracket for the cables. One mounts to the EGR plate that I don't need and is too small and the other bracket bolts to the elbow that I guess I need to toss.

The area you mentioned filling with JB weld, is that the area where the coolant flows thru? Sounds like that is what you are speaking of.
Nevertheless, maybe I will stop by the local machine shop to see if he can make me a thick aluminum or steel piece that is about 3/4" or 1" thick for a spacer/EGR plate replacement. Then I can thread the side of it to accept the stock cable brackets. That might be pretty nice.

Thanks for your input,
Neal

[Mercracer]

I am kind of partial to the 90* elbow kinda like a velocity stack.

A velocity stack is at the entrance of the intake tract and is flared at the end. Your 90 degree elbow is just a 90 degree elbow and has no positive effect on dynamic tuning or airflow transition.

[gstak07]

"toss the elbow. Take the Explorer throttle body and grind on the shaft where it goes through the lever until the "mushroom" is gone and you can pop the lever off. Do the same with your stock throttle body. Install the stock throttle body lever onto the Explorer piece and tack weld it together. Done."

It gets no easier, just put a wet rag around the spring to slow the heat transfer so that the plastic is melted to a minimum if any. Has anyone noticed that the coolant side of a lopo egr plate has more of a sealing surface than the rear does? So its safe to bore the EGR plate to 63mm with a slight taper which in turn will fit fine to a 65mm Explorer TB, just be sure to get a Explorer TB to EGR plate gasket and use "The Right Stuff" to make sure you have no future leaks. As far as the EGR to plenum gasket sealing goes, what I did was bought a stock mustang gt gasket and took a dremel tool to the inside diameter of it because it has a metal core and bored it out to 65mm. No leaks thus far.

[86VickyLX]

I saw someone on here take a mustang egr plate, and weld on some brakets for the stock throttle body bracket to attach to.

[gstak07]

Yea I seen that too but it did not look like a factory job to me, and I am very particular about that. Also I am not a fan of re-routing coolant hoses and so forth, if anything I like to eliminate things or improve them while still retaining the factory look

[gadget73]

Eliminating the egr cooler stuff gives about 15 degree colder air to the lower intake. I checked it on my car once upon a time.

[gstak07]

Ive been told not to unhook it, but to this day I have yet to see any negative effects from unhooking it. Cooler air is the power producer and any reduction in temps should help performance in some way. Also the 4.6 engines nor do the 5.4 engines have coolant running to the EGR and those intakes are a plastic composite. I doubt our EGR gets hot to the point that it requires major cooling, IMO I think the coolant running through the EGR plate makes the intake air charge temps higher. I also have a 1/2 inch spacer between the upper and lower intake to lower the temps and that along with bypassing the EGR coolant should net a few horses. Considering that cooler air is better.