View Full Version : EGR ports cleaning Procedure with Video

10-17-2010, 11:44 PM
Okay, I finally got around to cleaning my EGR ports and I know there is already a write up but I thought I might add a little to it so here goes.

This should clear the EGR Lack of flow codes.

Here is a list of tools and supplies.


1/4 inch drive ratchet

1/4 inch drive extensions 2 inches long and 4 inches long

8mm socket (I used a deep well)

10mm socket (shallow)


Flat screw driver (medium sized)

Shop Vac

Parts and materials:

Throttle Body Gasket:


Ford Part Number 9E936

Advance Auto part number 60894

Upper intake manifold Gasket:


Ford part number 9H486

Advance Auto part number MS94800

(I got both gaskets from advance but they had to order them, I got them the next day)

Dielectric Grease

Shop Rag

First thing you need to do is Remove the Resonator which is the Intake tube with the V8 and over head cam markings.


Now that the Resonator is out of the way we can take the throttle body off. There are four bolts that hold it on, remove these and it will come off. You don't have to remove the the throttle linkage or unplug the TPS but it is not that hard to do so and it makes more room but this is up to you.


Once you remove the Throttle Body You need to start removing vacuum lines and such connected to the Throttle Body Adapter. Be careful with these so you don't break any and if you need to take a picture or chart the locations down so you can be sure to put them back where they were.




When you remove the above lines and part it will look like this.


Don't forget the other side.


Now you want to unbolt a little bracket that is attached to the Throttle Body Adapter and move it back out of the way. This requires removing two 10mm bolts.


Once you remove the two bolts push it back out of the way like this.


Now you can unbolt the Throttle Body Adapter. There are four 8mm bolts spaced in a square fashion like the Throttle Body.


Once you remove the Throttle Body Adapter you can now see the EGR ports you need to clean. There will be a C shaped channel that will be completely gunked up rendering the EGR useless. Here it is Gunked .


To remove all this Gunk you need to first place a rag in the intake hole to prevent anything from being knocked down in. The you can use a screw driver or pick to scrape the gunk out while you use a vacuum cleaner to suck it all out. There is a port that goes from this channel to the EGR that you will need a stiff wire like a coat hanger to clean out but mine wasn't really gunked up so yours may not be either but I would make sure. Once it is all clean it will look like this.


Now you need to clean up all the Gasket mating surfaces before install. Here are pics of the Throttle Body Adapter and Throttle Body.






After you clean up all Gasket mating surfaces you can now reassemble everything which is the reverse of removal. When you tighten the bolts make sure you tighten them evenly like you would lug nuts and don't kill them. They need to be tight but these parts are aluminum and if you over tighten you can strip out threads or even break these parts so be careful! And all the electrical connections you unplugged can get some dielectric grease.

Once I was all done I noticed an increase in power and performance (nothing spectacular but enough to notice). I don't really know yet for sure if this cleared my code because I removed the Check Engine Light bulb so I will have to update this at some point and let you all know when I either put the bulb back or get the codes read.

Also here is a video to watch covering all this.


Link to video on Youtube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1Yb2xCeoWc)

Okay, I hope this was helpful, informative, and enjoyable.

Thanks for Reading and watching! :merk:

10-17-2010, 11:50 PM
good job babe! :)

10-18-2010, 06:23 PM
Hmm I thought this would go better than it did. Oh well I tried.

10-18-2010, 10:52 PM
I didn't remove the TB when I did the 93... but then I wasn't trying to clean it out that much. Just wanted the CEL to go away so it would pass inspection. I was also really lucky with pulling the old gasket off... it came off completely clean. I was amazed... and I didn't argue. I just wiped the surfaces and put it back together with a new gasket. I would mark the TB removal as optional for a thorough clean.


10-19-2010, 12:24 AM
I guess you wouldn't have to remove the throttle body from the adapter but I did anyway, it seems to make more room. I probably could have reused the gaskets but I wanted to have them before I took it apart just in case especially since I had to order them. Since I already had new gaskets I put new ones on but they only cost me about $6 total so I think it is worth it. I would change it and make the throttle body removal optional but I can no longer edit the post so it will have to stay like that unless someone else does it or gives me permission to edit it again.

Thanks for your input, I really only did this because the only write ups I could find didn't have many pictures and they also didn't have the part numbers for the gaskets and when I called around for those gaskets nobody knew what I was talking about until I got the part numbers so I feel that this gives a little better visual of the process for newbies and people not so mechanically inclined.

10-19-2010, 09:34 PM
new gaskets are always better though. helps prevent the odd vacuum leak.

12-04-2010, 11:51 PM

12-05-2010, 05:14 PM
Great write up! Vids always help!
(By the way, that's the upper intake plenum, not the thottle body adapter)
I shall stickify it for future uses.

-ryan s.