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    Tranny Service Procedure

    I'm going to do a tranny service and drain the converter too. I have a few questions.

    1) My tranny has 177k on it, and I'm not sure how much longer it's going to last. Is it worth it to run Mercon V?

    2) If I drain the TC, is there any special fill procedure? The last time I did this, I didn't do the TC, and when I filled the tranny, I just filled it until the dipstick said full, started the car, and kept filling it and checking it until it stayed on the full mark. Do I need to do anything different when draining the torque converter?

    I'll also report my luck with the B&M drain plug kit that I picked up.

    Interesting note: When I picked up the filter, the guy asked me if it was a 4 or a 5 speed AOD. I told him there was no such thing as a 5 speed AOD, and he showed me his computer, where it said 80-91 AOD (5 speed) and it had a different filter number than the one I ended up getting. I told him the computer must be wrong, and he said "they don't make replacement parts for stuff that don't exist!"

    WTF? Is their computer just stupid?

    BTW for anybody in this area, this was Baxter Auto Parts, and I have found them to be slightly more knowledgeable than the average parts store bear.
    Originally posted by gadget73
    There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
    91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
    93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
    Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
    Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
    95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

    #2
    Annoyance about the aftermarket-screw-together-drain-plug kit ... not only does it stick up above the bottom of the pan (which bothers me slightly), but it's almost impossible to really get it tight enough that you can actually remove the 1/8-NPT drain plug without an extra wrench. After putting one in recently, I decided that a better solution would be to braze on a NPT bung of some sort, possibly a repurposed pipe bushing.


    Wasn't someone recently saying something negative about this Baxter Auto Parts?
    Last edited by 1987cp; 12-03-2010, 09:49 PM.
    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

    Comment


      #3
      no special method about the torque converter. I dumped 2 gallons in mine, fired it up, and kept adding till it said full. In the last gallon I'd run it through the gears between adding fluid and checking it, but it should take right about 12 quarts all told.

      Mercon V wouldn't be a bad idea, but it is more money. Its your dime. I've neve switched one, but I think the next change on my Towncar I'm gonna give it a go. Its supposed to make things last better.

      Never heard of a 5 speed automatic in the 80s. The only other trans I've even heard of in a box was the C4, and I believe that was gone by 82 or so. I've only ever seen two C4 boxes, one a 79 in the junkyard, and the other was an 80 or 81 wagon randomly spotted in a parking lot.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
        no special method about the torque converter. I dumped 2 gallons in mine, fired it up, and kept adding till it said full. In the last gallon I'd run it through the gears between adding fluid and checking it, but it should take right about 12 quarts all told.

        Mercon V wouldn't be a bad idea, but it is more money. Its your dime. I've neve switched one, but I think the next change on my Towncar I'm gonna give it a go. Its supposed to make things last better.

        Never heard of a 5 speed automatic in the 80s. The only other trans I've even heard of in a box was the C4, and I believe that was gone by 82 or so. I've only ever seen two C4 boxes, one a 79 in the junkyard, and the other was an 80 or 81 wagon randomly spotted in a parking lot.
        Fuck all, does it really take 12 quarts? I can get Dex/Merc for 9 bucks a gallon, but Mercon V is like 5 bucks a quart.

        And I didn't think so about the 5 speed.

        Thanks man!
        Originally posted by gadget73
        There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
        91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
        93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
        Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
        Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
        95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

        Comment


          #5
          with all the bitchen about price, id say that the mercV stuff is spot on mang its awsome stuff, now i dont drive my car as hard as mike does, but im pretty rough on my cars, especially with as much ighway use that my linc sees, but as gadget said it is your dime, but i found that its worth buying, sorta like royal purple stuff, i go stupid overboard on my car with stuff i really dont need but i buy anyway but good luck mang!
          89 townie, mild exhuast up grades, soon to have loud ass stereo....

          Comment


            #6
            When starting fresh like this is it recommend to add some sort of friction modifier to the mix? I remember hearing that once the fluid is drained the clutch materials escape and then the transmission may slip because the fluids slicker or something.....
            ~David~

            My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
            My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

            Originally posted by ootdega
            My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

            Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
            But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

            Originally posted by gadget73
            my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




            Comment


              #7
              Get straight mercon. It's what's meant for the transmission. Mercon has friction modifiers needed for Ford Transmissions. DEX/MERC is a cheap mix and the Dextron isn't helpful at all, and a lot of it will make the trans slip.

              Changing trans fluid on a high mileage trans could kill it faster. Due to the fact that new transmission fluid is a great cleaner. It will clear out gunk that's been in creveses in the transmission for a long time. Freeing that up could cause disaster elsewhere in the transmission. But it's a chance that's taken everytime the trans is serviced. Check the pan for metal. There should be a magnet in the pan for that. If there's stuff that doesn't attach to the magnet, that would be friction particles from clutch packs. And some in the pan is acceptable wear. I'd also recommend you flush the lines for the transmission and cooler. DO NOT put the flush in the trans though. Disconnect the lines at the transmission and put the flush through, and blow it out with compressed air. Once it's clean you will be able to reattach the lines.

              The fill procedure with the drained converter I've been told would be 6 quarts in the transmission, start the car, and add a quart and watch the level. Keep doing that until the level is right. Which should be about 12.3 quarts.

              Comment


                #8
                I know changing the fluid on a high mileage transmission will kill it faster if the transmission has been neglected. This one hasn't though. It's gotten 30k services its entire life, so a service now shouldn't hurt anything.

                As far as I understand it, Dex/Merc is not a mixture of Dexron III and Mercon, it's simply a fluid that is appropriate for use in transmissions requiring Dexron III and Mercon.


                Also--Pet peeve alert---

                It's DexRon. Not Dextron. Look it up.
                Originally posted by gadget73
                There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
                91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
                93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
                Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
                Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
                95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by 91waggin View Post
                  I know changing the fluid on a high mileage transmission will kill it faster if the transmission has been neglected. This one hasn't though. It's gotten 30k services its entire life, so a service now shouldn't hurt anything.

                  As far as I understand it, Dex/Merc is not a mixture of Dexron III and Mercon, it's simply a fluid that is appropriate for use in transmissions requiring Dexron III and Mercon.


                  Also--Pet peeve alert---

                  It's DexRon. Not Dextron. Look it up.
                  Yeah DexRon, Dextron, whatever. It's a GM name so I don't really care lol.

                  There's no replacement for actual Mercon in a ford Trans.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Ford now reccomends Mercon V in the AOD.

                    Mercon and Dexron III are the same fluid for all intents and purposes. Different label on the same juice. Actually if you look at the dipstick, I'm pretty sure it says Dexron II, which is what existed in the 80s. Ford came out with the Mercon fluid at some point so they could sell their own proprietary trans fluid instead of telling people to buy Chevy fluid for their Ford. Its still the same stuff though.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I used Max Life in my car. 12 quarts is what it takes.
                      89 CV LX 225/60 x 16 tires, CC819 rear springs, Front & rear sway bar, trans & PS cooler from 90 cop car. KYB shocks, F-150 on rear. Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe. Dark brown door panels, carpet, steering wheel, trim parts from a 87 Mer GM. Power front buckets from 96 Jeep Cherokee. LED'S front & rear. 3G Alt from a 97 Taurus wagon 3.0. Electric fan. Rear axle from a 97 PI 3.27 with disk brakes. Headlight relays.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Thought this might be helpful. It's some pointers for tranny service from Jan '11 Mustang Monthly. The article focuses on C4's but this seems like good info for AOD's as well:
                        • Change fluid every 30K miles. Always drop the pan and replace the filter. Partially drain the torque converter every other change.
                        • Never fully drain a torque converter. Leave a little in the converter to prime the front pump.
                        • Never mix transmission fluid types to aviod shocking the transmission seals.
                        • If a transmission has been neglected, first change only the pan and filter. Drive the car for several thousand miles. Then do a full fluid change with the torque converter.
                        • Dry starts are the hardest on seals. Drive your car once a week to keep things lubricated.
                        • Foamy fluid = overfull
                        • Mercon V is now recommended for all Ford automatic transmissions (including those that originally called for Type F)
                        I can vouch for the trashed fluid changed by pan only first. My wagon had what looked like dirty motor oil for transmission fluid. I changed the pan only and got light brown on the dipstick. I drove it about 10K miles then changed the whole thing and now I have a nice red on the dipstick with no slipping or leakage. My car only took about 10 quarts to fill after it all drained (including the TC).
                        1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
                        1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

                        GMN Box Panther History
                        Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
                        Box Panther Production Numbers

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Cool info! Thanks!
                          Originally posted by gadget73
                          There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
                          91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
                          93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
                          Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
                          Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
                          95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

                          Comment


                            #14
                            hm, interesting that they say to not drain the converter completely. I don't believe the shop manual says anything about that. I always just drained them out, then dumped enough fluid back in before startup that some should run up into the converter.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              #15
                              After removing the drain plug and draining the fluid out of the converter then replacing and tightening the converter drain plug, how does the new fluid get back into the converter?
                              Sorry about bringing an old post to life.
                              90 Colony Park LS with GT 40 heads and intake. HO cam, 65 MM TB, 67 MM EGR spacer. Has a 75 MM Pro Flow mass air sensor. Borla XS mufflers. 3L55. Shift kit, 2000 stall Tq convertor...Bilstein shocks, front and rear sway bars.
                              90 Colony Park LS 64,000 miles all original. 3L55 tow package....front and rear sway bars.
                              91 Grand Marquis GS....HO motor..Bilstein shocks poly bushings and police swaybars. This one handles the best.
                              70 Torino Squire with M code 351 Cleveland 3.00 has Magnaflow mufflers. Hidden headlights and power windows. All original

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