Eventually I'm going to get one and almost everywhere you see it, they make it very clear that it's not a DIY job for noobs, so I'm wondering how much the labor typically costs to have these installed. My dad figures it would be like 300$ or something.
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yea about 300 labor to install a trak lock and install new bearings and seals
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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Originally posted by Lincolnmania View Postyea about 300 labor to install a trak lock and install new bearings and seals
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...k-Differential
Or do you have to buy like a rebuild kit or something too to to have those parts?
Also, on a scale of 1-10, how much better does it handle in the snowy weather than the open differential?
And can I leave Traction Control or whatever it is enabled when I get the Traclok installed? Is there any very adverse affects to that?
And what about this thing I'm seeing how they can fit the anti-lock brake exciter ring? Is that something already on the open diff that swaps over or do you have to get it separately or what?2002 Crown Victoria LX - 124K miles
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I just got two quotes from reputable shops for 300-350, assuming it's just a straight installation.
85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc
06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)
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Originally posted by j5689 View PostDo the bearings and seals usually come with it like this one?
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...k-Differential
Or do you have to buy like a rebuild kit or something too to to have those parts?
Also, on a scale of 1-10, how much better does it handle in the snowy weather than the open differential?
And can I leave Traction Control or whatever it is enabled when I get the Traclok installed? Is there any very adverse affects to that?
And what about this thing I'm seeing how they can fit the anti-lock brake exciter ring? Is that something already on the open diff that swaps over or do you have to get it separately or what?
Check what the kit lists for, normally, the other stuff you'll need seperate from the rebuild kit would be the axle seals and bearings (the wheel side).
I'd recommend a new ring and pinion if you're going all new.
Excitor rings are on the axles themselves.
The reason it said that about the ABS ring was, some model fords, use an excitor ring on the rear end instead of on the axles, this basically means it's a 3 channel ABS unit, and doesn't independently control both rear wheels.
Traction control really won't be an issue, since if it continually trips, it's gonna shut off to protect the abs system and your brakes, so it won't mess with you really.
In the snow, you will have better traction, since with an open rear (get this) the power is transferred to the wheel with less traction. Whereas a limited slip, applies power to both wheels equally, and when a loss of traction to one wheel occurs, the power from that wheel is transferred to the one with more traction.
It's gonna be more money if you're going with all new stuff (trak lok carrier, and ring and pinion) because every carrier and gear set are different. Setting up a rear with new stuff requires more time to make sure all the preload settings are correct, and make sure backlash and pinion depth are correct, or else, you'll have noise, and premature gear failure.Last edited by 86VickyLX; 01-29-2011, 06:06 PM.
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So when I do this, I'll need to get another 3.27(I like my current ratio) kit?
This would basically mean buying the TracLok itself and the 3.27 kit, and I'm guessing the only other thing I would need parts-wise is an installation kit right? And does anyone know where I could find one of those?2002 Crown Victoria LX - 124K miles
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no need to buy a new ring and pinion
you will need a complete traction lock and bearings and seals and gear oil
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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Just come to scotts for scottfest and have him do it. And trak-lok with snow-tires equals 11 on a scale of 1-10.
-ryan s.08 Lincoln Navigator L - 233k
03 Mercury Marauder- 63k
97 Ford Crown Victoria HPP "Tank of Justice III" (TOJ3) - 194k -->578.9 miles on ONE tank of gas<--
94 BMW 325i Convertible - 135k
73 VW Super Beetle "Bunky" <----- Wifey's
12 Mini Cooper S - 90k <---- Wifey's
Originally posted by pantera77Well my buddy tells him he knows exactly who loves buying shitboxes.
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