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port and polish: dremel and AlO grinding ball?

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    port and polish: dremel and AlO grinding ball?

    Hi!

    Doing nothing ambitious at all; I'm not going for enough performance to care, and while I'm sure I'd do just great porting and polishing from past carving endeavors, I've got too many other things going on in this engine build to spend too long on this.

    But I was advised to at least knock the pointy casting line in the exhaust chamber down a little, so I figure I'll spend 30 minutes and do just that.

    I know an air grinder with a proper 1/4" drive made-in-us tungsten carbide burr, with single cut fine teeth, would be the way to go; but I have a weller-made dremel type tool in my box handy right now and was wondering if it should do alright?

    Well, I imagine it should. My real question: is there an important reason to go with a toothed carbide cutting bit, and not an aluminum oxide grinding bit? I'll be hot tanking once more after I'm done, so I'm thinking there shouldn't be abrasive dust about, if that's the reason.

    #2
    It will take

    FOR-EV-ER.

    Trust me, I'm working my way through doing minor portwork on my new intake with a dremel. You can't push that hard or it'll bog down. The bits don't last very long at all (in the minutes or few hours depending), and they aren't generally long enough to reach into the port (I would imagine even an exhaust port).

    That's really the main reason. You will be there forever. To give you an idea, it takes me a good five minute to knock down very minor casting lines 2 inches into the manifold, per side, per runner. That's just to knock a VERY minor (16th of an inch at the most) casting line down, and not do a perfect job. To do any real removal of iron you'll need to use an air grinder or AT LEAST a proper carbide burr. I've basically given up until I get a burr going and set up my compressor because I consumed an entire evening without much real progress.

    85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
    160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
    waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

    06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

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      #3
      ^what he said!

      I tried w\a dremel & killed it. Air or proper industrial elec grinders are necessary.....



      87 Ford LTD Crown Victoria Country Squire Station Wagon. 4.10's, Repacked Trac Loc, Boxed LCA's, Explorer Intake, 65mm T-body, 'Stang Cam, 'Stang Air tube, K&N, GT-40X Heads, 1" Spacer, 1 5/8 BBK's, 2.5" Pypes X-pipe w/high flow cats, Single Chamber Thunderbolts, B&M 'vertor, Po-lice Swaybars.

      91 Mercury Grand Marquis Colony Park Station Wagon. K-Code, 4.10's, Repacked Trac Loc, MK VII LSC Engine, 'Stang Upper Intake, Stang Air Tube, K&N, 65 mm T-Body, 'Stang Headers, 'Stang Cat Pipe,'Stang Torque Convertor, 2 Chamber Thunderbolts.

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        #4
        i gasket matched and knocked all the exhaust bumps out of cast iron heads with an air grinder and a carbide burr in about an hour. it will take you at least 4 hours to do ti with a dremel assuming you dont destroy it, youll also go through bits. How much is your time worth?
        http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
        http://secondhandradio.com/

        R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

        http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by DuceAnAHalf View Post
          How much is your sanity worth?
          Fixed.
          1992 CVLX. 5.0 HO/GT40P/T5/3.73/trak-lok with bolt ons. 02 front CVPI setup, rear HPP setup, CVPI shocks around, F250 radiator, e-fans, and the power of 3G. 15.92@89mph, 2.4 60', 4700' elevation (5500' DA) with 3.08 open rear and the old oil chugging 289. RIP.

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