Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

New Genuine Motorcraft module wanted

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    New Genuine Motorcraft module wanted

    I am looking for a new Genuine Motorcraft Module DY 249A Ford part # D9AZ12A199B Brown tab. It fits on the fender well. I have found ONE. That will be last resort. Too much money. None on Ebay. The autoparts stores online and in town wants to sell a aftermarket unit. In my opinion they are junk.
    Does anyone have one sitting on the shelf that they will part with. Thanks

    #2
    Its a discontinued/obsolete part, Not sure how much "too much money" is for your budget.

    Green sales company says they have 16 in stock, part # D9AZ12A199B... give them a call, but be warned factory/motorcraft parts will NOT be cheap

    http://www.greensalescompany.com/default.asp
    2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
    89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
    88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006


    I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

    Comment


      #3
      Um .... is this a Duraspark module?
      2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

      Comment


        #4
        ignition module

        1. Thanks for the Green sales info. I did not think of them. I will keep their info. for one of my sources.
        2. It is a ECC III system.

        Question: When the car would not start, I check cleaned all connections, Then I remembered a trick from the 80s used to start these systems.
        I pulled the plug wire out a little from the coil. The car started and ran fine only once from that point.. From that point on, it will not star. Did I ruin a Icm ?

        Comment


          #5
          So "module" = EEC-III ECM?
          2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

          Comment


            #6
            I think he's talking about an ignition module.

            Another EEC-III problem part is the MAP sensor, an EEC-III part, also un-obtainium.
            Ive often wondered if you could re-wire the connector and run a EEC IV MAP....
            Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
            'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
            sigpic
            85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

            Comment


              #7
              Sorry about the confusion. I don't know much about car electronics. The Ignition control module sits on the drivers side fender well. It is a squre box with two big connectors. On the underside there is a brown colored tab where the wires go into the ICM box. According to the Smog decal it is a EEC III system.
              If I took it to a local mechanic, he will charge $75 and hour, and just throw cheap parts at it ( that he will mark up 100 %) With the vast knowledge that is available on this site, I hope to fix it .

              Comment


                #8
                Do you have state inspections? If so, how do they feel about carburetors?
                2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                Comment


                  #9
                  The section of our state I am in has safety inspections only. The 1983 302, which I am trying to fix, has the TBI. It works good so far. My 1982 Merc. has the VV. I am trying to sell it cheap, so no money goes into it.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Do you have spark at the plugs? If so, your ignition system is fine. If no spark there, find out why. If its got spark at the coil, the issue is likely a bad coil wire or maybe the rotor burned through. The Duraspark boxes are overall fairly reliable. The EEC3 system drives it in an odd way though. Instead of the conventional distributor pickup, it uses a crank trigger and gets its pulse through the ECM somehow.



                    I actually sort of wonder what would happen if you installed a normal distributor on an EEC3 car, but left the rest intact. That would run the ignition system off conventional advance weights, but still fire the injectors based on the crankshaft position. Might have wierd running problems if the mechanical advance is pushing the timing somewhere other than where the ECM expects though.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Comment


                      #11
                      That's right, that one kid with an '84 or something replaced the crank pickup once or twice, didn't he? But obviously if the ignition module is suspected the first step is to verify whether or not there's spark.



                      OP - sounds like you have the worst of both worlds! IMO, either a 4V carb or SEFI are the only ways to go, though obviously there are plenty of folks who disagree.
                      2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X