Tune-Up Time

[Mike_O]

HAving been recently inspired by my car's engine turning off without my express permission, I feel I should get a tune-up done.

I plan to do the following to the car:

- oil change including filter
- replace spark plugs
- replace spark plug wires
- replace rotor
- replace cap


The parts I'm getting are the following:

Line code BKP
Part number 7355280
Description Distributor Cap & Rotor Kit - Accel - Hi-Perf
Attribute Product Features:Compression Molded Caps Are Stress-Relieved Immediately After Molding In Special Fixtures to Ensure Dimensional Stability, High Conductivity, Corrosion Resistant Brass Inserts & Stainless Steel Rotor,Manufacturer:Mr. Gasket Company,Mfg Part Number:8224,Additional Contents:Cap, Rotor
Comment w/ Push-On Type Rotor Tan
Warranty 30 Days
$51.59

Spark Plug Wires???
$71

Line code AUT
Part number APP25
Description Spark Plug - Double Platinum
Attribute Thread Size:14MM,Hex Size:5/8",Reach Length:.460",Seat Type:Tapered
Comment @Gap .044"@ Police Car
Warranty Free of Defects in Material & Workmanship during the Period of Sevice Life Recommended by the Engine or Equipment Manufacturer. See Complete Manufacturer's Warranty.
$6.67x8 = $53.36

Some kind of oil filter....
$7.33


Total price: $188 or so.



Now, what kind of oil should I go with? It's a 1986 Mercury Grand Marquis LS with a 5.8L 351 cubic inch motor.

Also, comment on the parts/prices I'm going with if you think I should go with something different. Thanks.

[mcninetyone]

This will definintely be just my :2cents: because every body has a different opinion.

I've never seen a distributor cap worth $50 or a set of wires worth $70!

I've got a box CV running better than new with tune up parts that don't come anywhere near costing that much. My cap/rotor cost about $24, wires $46, plugs (Motorcraft copper core) about $2.50 each, and Motorcraft filter (FL-1) $4-$5. And these are quality parts, not the cheapest junk I could find. There is no way I would spend nearly $190 on this stuff!!

As for oil, I use a good 100% synthetic and change it about every 4000 miles. But my engine is in real good condition and doesn't leak or use oil. What you should use all depends on the miles and condition or your engine. Also taking into consideration where you live. And don't forget to change the fuel and air filters!!:wave:

[Mike_O]

This will definintely be just my :2cents: because every body has a different opinion.

I've never seen a distributor cap worth $50 or a set of wires worth $70!

I've got a box CV running better than new with tune up parts that don't come anywhere near costing that much. My cap/rotor cost about $24, wires $46, plugs (Motorcraft copper core) about $2.50 each, and Motorcraft filter (FL-1) $4-$5. And these are quality parts, not the cheapest junk I could find. There is no way I would spend nearly $190 on this stuff!!

As for oil, I use a good 100% synthetic and change it about every 4000 miles. But my engine is in real good condition and doesn't leak or use oil. What you should use all depends on the miles and condition or your engine. Also taking into consideration where you live. And don't forget to change the fuel and air filters!!:wave:

Yeah, I got the air filter situation figured out after the damn car kept dying on me today.

[gadget73]

Keep in mind he's in Canada. Despite their money being more valuable than US currency, their parts prices are somewhat inflated vs what we get here.

For distributor caps, basically anything with a brass terminal should be preferred. I seem to remember having the terminals just pull out of an Accel cap before. The Duralast ones crust up quickly too. Don't rightly know who makes one that doesn't suck anymore, thinking the brass formula they are using is just poor quality or something. Even so, it holds up better than aluminum does.

You don't need and probably don't want double platinum plugs. These motors run quite happily on basic copper core Motorcraft plugs. Avoid the Autolites if they say Made In China on the box. Made In Mexico or USA run fine, but good luck getting a set. Motorcraft are Hecho en Mexico these days. I've been tempted to try a set of Bosch Super plugs if they make them for a Ford V8. They're copper core and usually made in Brazil. I had excellent results with them in my air cooled VWs, but they were also originally engineered to run with those plugs.

Plug wires, had one case of bad results with Napa Premium wires, which I believe are Belden. It caused a lot of popping and chugging with a CFI car. Have not had problems with them on my SEFI car. Absolutely no idea about a carb car with those wires. The Ford Racing wires have been pretty consistently decent, or at least I've not heard of or had problems with them. I'm currently running a set of Taylor SpiroPro on my Towncar because they look cool, those Napa wires on the Mark VII and I think Autolite Pro wires on my Chevy because its what I could get that day when I had to have wires. Its been 3 or 4 years and they still seem fine for whatever thats worth.

Oil filters, I like Motorcraft. Its a Purolator Pure One filter in a regular Purolator can, and often priced slightly less than a standard Purolator filter. I've been known to run just about any filter I can get my hands on though, but I don't really like Fram filters.

[1990LTD]

I paid like 70 bucks + shipping for my ford racing wires...I've seen wire sets for 100 or more in parts shops.


Prices here are retarded. Some stuff is comparable in price to the US - For example, I pay 3 bucks for an oil filter - But some stuff is ridiculous. ie: CV axle for my girlfriends Ford Escort = $85 plus $35 core charge. The money back for the core charge is almost as much as a new CV axle in the states, from what I gather.

[johnunit]

Shop around for a good price for ford racing wires. I was quoted as high as 100 but got them for 41 at a local performance parts place.

[miamibob]

Have had the best luck using all Motorcraft tune up parts.

[gadget73]

Have had the best luck using all Motorcraft tune up parts.

My only issue with doing that is the caps have aluminum terminals on them, and they burn up. Though considering how quick the crappy brass burns up it may not be much worse.

[turbo2256b]

Not too crazy about anthing from Accel or Mr Gasket.

[Mike_O]

I managed to save $45 or so on the parts.

I ended up with some single platinum plugs and some other kind of wires to go with them. I think the distributor cap has aluminum terminals on it too.

Not too sure.

[Mike_O]

So I bought the tune-up ratchet set, the spark plugs, the wires, the distributor cap, the rotor, and some other thing.

I marched out to the car, popped the hood, and stared.

A sudden horrible fear overcame me. What if I snapped the plug in the engine block? What if I mixed up the wires? What if the rotor spun clockwise instead of counterclockwise?

I slammed the hood closed, tossed the parts into the back seat, and retreated to my apartment where my XBox 360 waited.


I *almost* tuned the car up.

[turbo2256b]

I sugfgest standard OEM plugs over the platinum ones

[1990LTD]

So I bought the tune-up ratchet set, the spark plugs, the wires, the distributor cap, the rotor, and some other thing.

I marched out to the car, popped the hood, and stared.

A sudden horrible fear overcame me. What if I snapped the plug in the engine block? What if I mixed up the wires? What if the rotor spun clockwise instead of counterclockwise?

I slammed the hood closed, tossed the parts into the back seat, and retreated to my apartment where my XBox 360 waited.


I *almost* tuned the car up.



fear not, young blood.

firing order, rotor direction, et al:


http://boxwrench.net/specs/ford_289_302-5.0.htm



when you're replacing your cap, plug, and wires - basically anything ignition related - do it all 1 at a time! You won't mess it up.

Worst case Ontario, you run the plug wires backwards (clockwise vs counter clockwise)....it just won't run. I did that.

Don't worry about snapping off the plugs in the head...just take care to get the socket on there straight and try to keep it that way. Plugs snapping off in the head is more of an issue with aluminum heads as opposed to the cast iron boat anchors we have. Electrolysis and whatnot.

[johnunit]

Yep, there cars and engines are hard to screw up. Do the wires one by one. Take off one and find the new one of the same length.

Our heads have very few spark plug breakage issues.

Also, best value if you're trying to build a tool set is the mastercraft socket and wrench sets that have 150+ pieces and come on sale for 70ish at canadian tire. They come with screwdriver bits, hex keys, spark plug sockets, etc. I keep one in my trunk.

[1990LTD]

Also, best value if you're trying to build a tool set is the mastercraft socket and wrench sets that have 150+ pieces and come on sale for 70ish at canadian tire. They come with screwdriver bits, hex keys, spark plug sockets, etc. I keep one in my trunk.

+1

[86VickyLX]

13726548
1 is normally in the back of distributor. Rotor rotates counter clockwise.

[Mike_O]

Alright, I'll get back out there and try it.

[1990LTD]

13726548
1 is normally in the back of distributor. Rotor rotates counter clockwise.



15426378 = non-HO

13726548 = HO/351w


in case anyone was confused like me when I first read that :D

[gadget73]

yep, one at a time, makes it much much harder to mess up. If the rotor did spin the wrong way, well, that would just be bizzare. Its theoretically possible but you'd need a specially made engine with a number of specific parts to make that happen. Even if the motor was a reverse rotation type, the trans just wouldn't work. They never made reverse rotation AODs. Reverse engines are almost exclusively used in boats. I suppose there may be some other application, but I don't know what it is.

These aren't retarded like some engines with aluminum heads or any of that nonsense where theres a serious risk of stripping things or breaking stuff. You might want to put a small daub of antiseize on the threads of the new plugs, just to be safe.

[Mike_O]

15426378 = non-HO

13726548 = HO/351w


in case anyone was confused like me when I first read that :D

What's that mean?

[1990LTD]

What's that mean?

Those are the firing orders for the different versions of the Windsor engine.

The 351 Windsor and the 5.0 high output share the same firing order, the reason escapes me. Likely smoothness or power output. 13726548.

The 5.0 standard output shares the firing order with its older Windsor cousins, the 289/260/221. I don't know about the 255 but probably.

It's the order the cylinders are attached via plug wires to the distributor cap so they fire in the proper sequence and in time. start at 1 (the rotor should be pointing to the #1 cylinder, the first in the left bank) and work counter clockwise. It's kind of a headache to do from scratch so that's why you do them one at a time :D

[1990LTD]

http://www.302w.com/Firing-Order.aspx

[Mike_O]

Is backfiring bad? Just wondering.....

[johnunit]

the stock carb often causes little popping hesitations when it's not warmed up. That just means you have to warm it up more in park before driving off. If it's a noisy, concussive "pop" from the intake, yeah that's not right.

[mcninetyone]

Thats the firing order for the LOPO 5.O's (302)

And the firing order for the H.O. 5.O (302) and all 351's.

But if you change one plug wire at a time, the firing order won't be an issue.

Backfiring is not a good thing!!