Prepping a used AOD for installation?

[Piece-it pete]

I picked up a used transmission this past weekend. 103k miles, guy said it ran just fine when he pulled it for a 5 speed swap in a very clean 85 Conti. Fluid pretty clean but not new. All indications of goodness imo. Gave it to me, said he was tired of it in the way. Good folks'll help restore faith in humanity, till some ass screws it up. Nice while it lasts anyway

Soooo.... What should I do to it? What I do know:

Pull & drain (or drain & pull?) converter.

Change front and rear seals.

Change filter.

Tha's about the limit of my knowledge. Changing the tranny is not a problem for me, but everything else about the mystery thing is. I've never been inside one.

I found this on an unnamed online auction site:



Includes: "Metal clad pump and extension housing seals, front pump o'ring and gasket, extension housing gasket, manual lever shaft seal,Throttel valve lever shafts seal, speedometer housing o'ring, filter gasket, neutral safety switch o'ring, filler tube o'ring, pan gasket."

Is this everything? Is it all neccessary, and most important will I have trouble with any of it?

Getting fired up

Oh and anything else I should do on the car with the tranny out? The only thing I've done around there iirc is a new starter and new tranny mount.

Pete

[zoomie]

hey ,im back up north for a bit, if you want i can come over and help you do the install, but i hope the tail housing is the same, i suggest you measure it. if you want a seal kit, i plan on goin back down to the shop tomarrow, i can pick you up a good kit, that cork gasket is a no-no we usae one piece seals. call me 716-450-1088

[86VickyLX]

hey ,im back up north for a bit, if you want i can come over and help you do the install, but i hope the tail housing is the same, i suggest you measure it. if you want a seal kit, i plan on goin back down to the shop tomarrow, i can pick you up a good kit, that cork gasket is a no-no we usae one piece seals. call me 716-450-1088

Lincoln transmissions use the Lincoln (longer) extension housing.

Pete, you will need to swap the shift lever on the side of the trans and possibly your tv lever as well.
I also second no cork gaskets on trans!
While it's out, replace the rear main seal!

[gadget73]

Consider changing the bushing in the tailshaft too. Also prob not a bad idea to replace the O rings on the dipstick tube and the VSS.

and yeah, shift lever needs changing. Not that big of a deal, but you have to be careful to get the parts back in there properly or it won't shift. Basically you want to drain the trans, roll it over, and remove the pan. Remove the TV lever by undoing it's nut on the outside of the trans. On the pan rail is a roll pin near the shift selector lever. Pull that out. You should be able to move things around a little so you can remove the big nut on the inside that holds the thing that looks like a steel chicken head to the shift lever. Remove the nut, and the shift shaft slides out. Swap yours in, and re-assemble. There is a tang on the chicken head looking device that engages a piston on the valve body. It must be in there properly or the trans won't go into gear, or maybe it won't come out of whatever gear it ends up stuck in. The parking pawl linkage also ties into the chickenhead, though I disrecall exactly how. I think its a Z shaped end on the rod and it hooks in place. Once thats in, put the TV lever back on, being sure its working properly. My memory is also fuzzy on this, but it seems to me that the inside shaft can become knocked out of position, and not allow the TV lever to work properly. its reasonably obvious if the trans is open whenther that is moving correctly, but make sure you check it before putting the pan back on.

[marquisman]

^^i had an issue with changing over the shifter posission. this was on GMGT, with the stang AOD. the car would be in forward, no matter where the gear selector was lol.

[85crownHPP]

I had to do that when put Jonny's AOD in the 91. Just get a reeeeeal good look at the mechanism with the pan off, move it around and get a good look at how it works before you take anything apart. I remember needing a silly big open end wrench for that nut on the end of the selector shaft, in the 1" range maybe. You have to hold the lever with something while you turn it, and keep the wrench under control so you don't follow through and wreck the mechanisms around it

[zoomie]

i think ill be helping with the install, so this will painless as possiable. i had to switch the shifter thingy on mine too, changed it out right while the new trans was in the car.piece o cake

[Piece-it pete]

Thanks everyone, it's now a nightmare of non shifting proportions

I'll have to read this carefully once I get in there to understand I'm thinking. Zoomie was kind enough to offer a pro seal kit, and the Wix filter kit comes with the rubber or neoprene tranny pan gasket iirc. If I come across any cork gaskets I will burn them and bury the ashes lol. Erin, does the kit contain the same parts as the pic above?

In order to change the rear tailshaft bushing, I have to remove the tailshaft housing I assume?

Is the 'Torque Converter Seal' the same thing as the front seal?

Seems I remember that one is supposed to use new flexplate screws. Does anybody?

I considered the rear engine seal. Is it hard? Do I have to drop the pan? And I see many different shaft diameters on Rock, which one? Ignore them and buy FEL-PRO Part # BS40620?

Maybe I should do the motor mounts with the tranny out, or does it really matter?

Thanks guys, this is such a big help and learning experience.

Pete

[mitymerc]

Thanks everyone, it's now a nightmare of non shifting proportions I'll have to read this carefully once I get in there to understand I'm thinking. Zoomie was kind enough to offer a pro seal kit, and the Wix filter kit comes with the rubber or neoprene tranny pan gasket iirc. If I come across any cork gaskets I will burn them and bury the ashes lol. Erin, does the kit contain the same parts as the pic above?In order to change the rear tailshaft bushing, I have to remove the tailshaft housing I assume?Is the 'Torque Converter Seal' the same thing as the front seal?Seems I remember that one is supposed to use new flexplate screws. Does anybody?I considered the rear engine seal. Is it hard? Do I have to drop the pan? And I see many different shaft diameters on Rock, which one? Ignore them and buy FEL-PRO Part # BS40620?Maybe I should do the motor mounts with the tranny out, or does it really matter?Thanks guys, this is such a big help and learning experience.Pete

Rear main is a good idea since the trans will be out. Be sure to flush the cooler & lines. How do you intend to flush the 'vertor. A Mustang 'vertor works well if you can get one cheap. The shift lever is not hard, just pay attention. Will the linc tailshaft fit? My MK VII trans was too long for the wagon

[gadget73]

The bushing will come out without removing the tailshaft, though I'm not certain of the process. I know Scott did mine, but I wasn't there when it was done.

[Piece-it pete]

Thanks.

Mity yeah it'll fit, it's going in another Lincoln The torque 'vert should have a drain plug...

According to my research the 'later models' of the 302 have an easy to change 1 piece rear engine seal, no pan drop, although noone seemed to know the switchover date, 70s?

Gadget I found some info, apparently the tailshaft bushings are pretty straightforward, pull the housing and it's obvious? I'll find out

The front pump o-ring and gasket seems a bit more involved. Do I need to do this?

The flexplate screws are cheap and shipping from same location as parts in cart, so I'll get them. Why the heck not.

Although this free transmission is starting to cost! Gasket kit, other bushings etc, mercon v - ouch.

I found a tranny drain bolt setup on eBay for $5.99 delivered, from Jegs, free hat too. Any reason I should put it one place over the other? Bottom OK right?

This is what I've got so far, plus the kit, fluid, and drain plug:

Transmission-Automatic : Extension Housing Bushing
ATP Part # FB12 {#8M7041A, B3TZ7A034A, B3TZ7A034B, C4AP7A034A, E3TZ7A034B}
Trans. code AOT B
$5.13 $5.13

Transmission-Automatic : Bushings
ATP Part # LB1 {#E0AZ7025A}
Trans. code AOT; Rear Case C
$1.08 $1.08

Transmission-Automatic : Shift Linkage Bushing
ATP Part # LO28 {#E0AZ7F330A} Throttle Valve Rod
Trans. code AOT; Throttle Valve Rod D
$0.88 $0.88

Transmission-Automatic : Flexplate Mounting Bolt
ATP Part # ZX101 {#D2AZ6379B} Flywheel Bolt-AT
7/16 -20x.6875 inches
+ Sold in packs of 6; Price reflects cost of each individual item, not the pack D
$0.83 $4.98

Engine : Crankshaft Seal
FEL-PRO Part # BS40620 Rear Main Seal Set
Type: Rear Main Seal Set; Rubber; One-piece; Improved design; Rear D
$8.88 $8.88

Transmission-Automatic : Filter
WIX Part # 58939 {#FT1056} Transmission Filter B
$6.34 $6.34

Transmission-Automatic : Torque Converter Seal
TIMKEN Part # 331107N
Trans. code AOT; 4 speed trans. A
$3.44 $3.44

.-.-.-.

I'm probably going to start draining it tonight. I'll pull the converter, pull the tail seal, and upend it in a bucket. Any reason not to do it this way?

ONE LAST question. (sure!) I also need some exhaust clamps. I can get 2" wide walker 2-1/4" dia stainless band clamps from Rock for about $9.50 ea del'd. Any cheaper place?

Pete

[MattsLincoln]

Thanks.

Mity yeah it'll fit, it's going in another Lincoln The torque 'vert should have a drain plug...

According to my research the 'later models' of the 302 have an easy to change 1 piece rear engine seal, no pan drop, although noone seemed to know the switchover date, 70s?

Gadget I found some info, apparently the tailshaft bushings are pretty straightforward, pull the housing and it's obvious? I'll find out

The front pump o-ring and gasket seems a bit more involved. Do I need to do this?

The flexplate screws are cheap and shipping from same location as parts in cart, so I'll get them. Why the heck not.

Although this free transmission is starting to cost! Gasket kit, other bushings etc, mercon v - ouch.

I found a tranny drain bolt setup on eBay for $5.99 delivered, from Jegs, free hat too. Any reason I should put it one place over the other? Bottom OK right?

This is what I've got so far, plus the kit, fluid, and drain plug:

Transmission-Automatic : Extension Housing Bushing
ATP Part # FB12 {#8M7041A, B3TZ7A034A, B3TZ7A034B, C4AP7A034A, E3TZ7A034B}
Trans. code AOT B
$5.13 $5.13

Transmission-Automatic : Bushings
ATP Part # LB1 {#E0AZ7025A}
Trans. code AOT; Rear Case C
$1.08 $1.08

Transmission-Automatic : Shift Linkage Bushing
ATP Part # LO28 {#E0AZ7F330A} Throttle Valve Rod
Trans. code AOT; Throttle Valve Rod D
$0.88 $0.88

Transmission-Automatic : Flexplate Mounting Bolt
ATP Part # ZX101 {#D2AZ6379B} Flywheel Bolt-AT
7/16 -20x.6875 inches
+ Sold in packs of 6; Price reflects cost of each individual item, not the pack D
$0.83 $4.98

Engine : Crankshaft Seal
FEL-PRO Part # BS40620 Rear Main Seal Set
Type: Rear Main Seal Set; Rubber; One-piece; Improved design; Rear D
$8.88 $8.88

Transmission-Automatic : Filter
WIX Part # 58939 {#FT1056} Transmission Filter B
$6.34 $6.34

Transmission-Automatic : Torque Converter Seal
TIMKEN Part # 331107N
Trans. code AOT; 4 speed trans. A
$3.44 $3.44

.-.-.-.

I'm probably going to start draining it tonight. I'll pull the converter, pull the tail seal, and upend it in a bucket. Any reason not to do it this way?

ONE LAST question. (sure!) I also need some exhaust clamps. I can get 2" wide walker 2-1/4" dia stainless band clamps from Rock for about $9.50 ea del'd. Any cheaper place?

Pete

eek cork pan gasket. i would toss the pan gasket that comes with and get a moroso aod pan gasket it's like the blue felpro permadry gaskets has the reinforced steel i have one on my lincoln and am pleased with it for $30.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-93106


it's worth the $30. it's also reusable.

[zoomie]

all you need for the tailshaft seal is a big screwdriver, it pops right out, i just did mine a while ago. also shouldnt be any need to pull the tailshaft housing.

[Piece-it pete]

I swear I'm going to use a cork gasket

Erin I'm going to change the output shaft bushing as rec'd.

Last update till I actually do something, re: band clamps for the exhaust, Jegs has'em on ebay for $7.99 ea del'd. And another free hat

Pete

[Piece-it pete]

Matt due to your warning I was careful with the tailshaft housing bolts and only broke 2

Pete