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Simple Solution for the Three-Bolt Starter Removal Problem

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    Simple Solution for the Three-Bolt Starter Removal Problem

    My car is a 2000 Grand Marquis LS that I received as a hand-me-down in 2008. Something on my "to do" list was learning how to remove the starter so that I might avoid expensive towing and repair bills if I ever got stuck somewhere. I got around to this recently and figured out how to remove the starter without breaking things off or using lots of extensions.

    I happened to have a stubby ratchet whose handle is less than 3.5 inches long from the center of the socket. This fit perfectly on the two upper bolts, so that was half the problem. The other half was getting enough leverage. I saw a trick on a YouTube video (1A Auto's stabilizer link replacement video) where a wrench was used on the end of another wrench, and I figured this might work on a ratchet too. This worked great for the middle bolt.

    For the top bolt, I was going to lengthen the ratchet handle by putting a deep socket over it and putting a short extension into the deep socket, but the deep socket was enough to allow me to loosen the top bolt with my hand without resorting to the wrench. There was no corrosion on this bolt, and it came out freely after it was broken loose.

    I didn't actually have a problem with the starter, so I just put anti-seize on the bolts so they would not give me any grief when it matters.

    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
    mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

    #2
    Can you post a link to the 1A Auto video? There are several. By the way, first post and already useful info - WELL DONE!! Bobby


    "Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob

    "NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)

    "Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks Bobby! Here's the link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XYmJ74vsWQM. For the sake of completeness, here's the title: "How To Install Replace Front Stabilizer Bar Links Crown Victoria Grand Marquis 1998-2002 1AAuto.com". The wrench trick starts around 1:43.

      Something I forgot to note was that I highly recommend using 6-point sockets to avoid stripping corroded bolts/nuts.

      2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
      mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

      Comment


        #4
        Cool trick and thanks for the link!!


        "Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob

        "NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)

        "Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"

        Comment


          #5
          Here's a photo of what the full version of my stubby ratchet trick would look like. I had used a 1/2" drive six-point impact socket with a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter but don't recall if the extra length from the adapter made a difference. The deep socket and wrench were 1/2". I almost had to use a bigger wrench on the middle bolt due to the flex in the 1/2" wrench.
          Attached Files

          2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
          mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

          Comment


            #6
            I recently thought of an alternate method that might be useful. You can get flexible extensions for your ratchet. It's probably a piece of steel cable taking the place of solid metal. Here's a link for a local example:

            http://www.princessauto.com/en/detai...et/A-p2920483e

            I won't be trying to see if they'll work on the starter bolt problem until the spring, but I don't see why they wouldn't.

            They're useful for other stuff too, particularly relatively low torque applications where a wobble extension just doesn't have enough wobble. I even used one bent back in almost a U shape when taking out my annoying blower motor controller. It was still a big PITA, so I would definitely recommend a 1/4" drive U-joint for that particular problem.

            2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
            mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

            Comment


              #7
              I was able to confirm that the wrench trick works "in the field". I pulled a starter yesterday from a 2000 MGM that had less than 68,000 miles on it. Considering that my starter is approaching 122,000 miles with no sign of declining performance, it seemed worth ~$35 CDN to have an OEM spare.

              Things seemed somewhat different this time. Considering that the slip yoke was initially trapped by the floor when I subsequently pulled the driveshaft to see if the yoke was worth it (it wasn't), I guess the engine/tranny had shifted for some reason. It took me quite awhile, and it was mostly a matter of going by feel while trying to visualize things, but I got it.

              After re-reading this thread, I realized that I hadn't required the wrench for the top bolt the first time. I had just assumed I needed it, and I found that a short extension was required behind the socket to get the wrench to clear the solenoid. With all the flex in the wrench, I just didn't have enough room to move the wrench with the solenoid in the way.

              Hopefully we'll have a freaky warm spell in the next few weeks so I can confirm it works during the return period.

              I haven't tried the flexible extension in earnest, but I seriously doubt it would be any better (if it works at all). It might be worth considering for those who prefer making a long snake with wobble extensions.
              Last edited by IPreferDIY; 12-08-2016, 11:41 AM.

              2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
              mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by IPreferDIY View Post
                I haven't tried the flexible extension in earnest, but I seriously doubt it would be any better (if it works at all). It might be worth considering for those who prefer making a long snake with wobble extensions.
                I have these (the same, from PA), and while they work great, they can't take a lot of torque without deforming. You'd want to break the bolt loose with something solid, then could use one of these to spin it out.

                Also, they tend to "curve/flex" as an overall arch. It's not like a U-joint where the direction change is sudden and in one defined spot on the extension.

                No experience with the 4.6 so can't vouch for its usefulness there, but I do know this tool well.
                Last edited by kishy; 12-08-2016, 12:13 PM.

                Current driver: Ranger
                Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
                | 88 TC | 91 GM
                Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
                Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
                | Junkyards

                Comment


                  #9
                  Here's a scenario that goes to show it's better to remove the bolts and put anti-seize on them before there's a problem. Went to an out-of-town dinner last night and had no problem. Went to a store this morning and had no problem. Came out of the store and my 2000 MGM only gave me a series of clicks and then nothing. Battery voltage was 12.3V, and a boost attempt from a good Samaritan did nothing, so it must've been the starter. Decided against paying ~$150 or so for a tow to work on it on the road outside my residence with a sloping driveway. (Good thing it failed where it did.) Pulled the starter and found that the thick wire that goes from the positive terminal into the motor had eroded to the point where it looked and felt like fine steel wool. I wonder if there was a bad reaction to the Rust Check oil spray.

                  The distance home was at least biking distance but still walkable. Got my spare U-pull starter with a mostly green but otherwise intact terminal wire, and all is well.

                  The top bolt was not tightened really tight when I put the anti-seize on previously, and I only needed to crack it loose and was able to get it out by hand. The other two bolts were more stubborn, such that they were too resistive to get by hand but not resistive enough to use the stubby ratchet without holding the socket to get the ratchet to work. With the two bottom ones in and tight, I was able to get the top one in by hand and did not tighten it too much.
                  Last edited by IPreferDIY; 12-26-2018, 06:49 PM.

                  2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
                  mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

                  Comment

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