Ignition switch

[Archangel]

The ignition switch has 5 pairs of plugs and one single plug, can someone please tell me which of these are 'hot' when the engine is running? The idea is to splice their wires and run them to an external ON/OFF switch, so that I can run the engine without the key in (only running it, starting will still require the key) - basically start the car with the key, flip the switch on, put the parking brake on, shut off with the key (locking this way the steering), lock the doors, and go where I'm about the go, when I come back like 5-10 minutes later the engine's nicely idling, the car's warm and cosy, and most important I'm not screwing up my starter by making it work more often than it needs to.

[Lincolnmania]

dont have keyless entry?

[Archangel]

Nope, no keyless entry - it's a base TC, did they ever get them? Now I'm playing with two keys, one on the chain for just unlocking the car, and one to keep it running, but the switch will be much better solution.

[gadget73]

I despise multiple keys in a vehicle. I swapped an entire lockset in my car just to keep them all matching after I destroyed my door lock. As a bonus, I got the groovy lighted keylock bezels.

But, to answer your question, on an 86 (and i'm sure yours is the same), the live terminals in the "run" position are this:
37-16-687-297

37 is main +
16 is ignition
687 is accessory circuit 2
297 is accessory circuit 1.

[Archangel]

Gadget73, thanks man! So if I undrestand the whole circuit mess correctly:

a) I need to splice the two battery wires (37) and run them to one terminal of the switch, then splice the two A1 wires (297) and together with the single ignition wire (16) and the cooresponding A2 wire (687) run them to the other terminal of the switch?

or

b) both A1 terminals are always powered and I don't need to worry about them, thus leaving me to deal only with the 2 battery ones, the A2, and the ignition?

And since we're at it, would you mind telling me what are terminals #997 (P1), #41 (P2), and #262 for? I guess #32 is the starter Also what kind of switch will be best to use, I mean for how many amperes?

[Paul_]

I despise multiple keys in a vehicle. I swapped an entire lockset in my car just to keep them all matching after I destroyed my door lock. As a bonus, I got the groovy lighted keylock bezels.

But, to answer your question, on an 86 (and i'm sure yours is the same), the live terminals in the "run" position are this:
37-16-687-297

37 is main +
16 is ignition
687 is accessory circuit 2
297 is accessory circuit 1.

did your car have the plugs for the lighted bezels? if so, i think the wheels in my head are turning :evil:

[DuceAnAHalf]

my car will dio that, the only thing the ignition switch controls on the engine is the starter and the charge light, everything else is on toggle switches.

[gadget73]

did your car have the plugs for the lighted bezels? if so, i think the wheels in my head are turning :evil:

Yes. Just had to plug them in. Kinda handy.


Ivan: 37 is battery power at all times. To keep just the engine going, all you really need to do is switch power to 16. The other two should run stuff like the radio, heater blower, etc.

Rest of the pins:

32 start ckt
16 ignition ckt
262 ignition bypass (jumps out the ballast resistor inline on the ignition coil)
297 accessory 1
977 Proof 1 ckt
41 Proof 2 ckt
687 Accessory 2
37 Battery.

I'm assuming the proof connections involve the neutral safety switch in the transmission. According to the book, in "start" the continuity should be this:
41-977-ground and 37-32-262.
Run:
37-16-687-297
off and lock get nothing
acc 37-297.

I'd highly reccomend a factory service manual for in-depth wiring tinkering. I've got one for my 86, but I really want an EVTM as well. That has more information on the electrical and vacuum systems than most people will ever need.

[Archangel]

Actually I wanted to have all accesories running, just as if the car is driving down the road, only without a key in. And so I did it, first took my old ignition swithc apart to find what makes contact with what and when does that happen, and then I noticed that ACC2 and ignition always work together - either both are on, or both are off. That said they both got to one output terminal of a two-circuit 20A switch, the other output got the ACC1 wire, and both input terminals got battery wires - for there I used 4 wires, two on each plug of the ignition switch, and I also crossed them at the external switch (so that each input terminal gets power from both ignition switch terminals). All the connections are crimped and soldered, should keep them tight for a while. Took me about 3 hours, but I suck at electronics so it'd normally be done much faster.

[1987cp]

:bump:


Props to Ivan for referring me to this thread! Great info for us mavericks insisting on wiring up our own systems. And if I hadn't known to look inside the socket side of the switch for the numbers, I never would have found they also have lettering cast in to the tune of "IG1", "IG2", "BATT", "ST", "A1", "A2", etc. Turned out the '79 switch I'm using at the moment uses a different number for the Proof 2 (39, I think it was), but it's labelled "P2", so I guess that's that.

[Archangel]

Yah, forgot to mention you that, they are labeled with letters in addition to the numbers, kinda makes things nice and easy to figure out.

[gabegt90]

is the igniton switch in the wagon still messed up mike?

[1987cp]

is the igniton switch in the wagon still messed up mike?

Well, the questionable lock cylinder came out after it failed and I had to slowly and painfully smash it to bits in order to move the car without breaking the steering lock, if that's what you mean.


BTW Ivan, you mention about the connections being both crimped and soldered ... do you buy a special type of uninsulated terminal when you plan to solder it?

[gadget73]

If you have the typical "insulated" terminals, that plastic bit just about falls off if you look at it funny. I'd actually toss it and use heat shrink tubing over the whole thing after soldering it.

[1987cp]

I see your point as long as you're not working with spade or bullet connectors, where the insulation can come in handy. I actually did do just as you suggest on a few ring terminals where I was concerned about the plastic cracking and on one that I needed to expand the crimp end a bit before installing it. Just held the plastic with my crimpers over the propane heater for a few seconds, and then grabbed the ring with pliers and pulled it right out. I didn't bother actually soldering anything, though.... that'd be one thing I could definitely do to improve upon the quality of the current jobs, but I'm slightly intimidated by the idea of having to keep my soldering iron right there and screw with every single joint for at least 30 extra seconds.