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    Voltage issues?

    I think my alternator may be going on me, but I'm not sure. When i turn the car on at night, I notice the lights flicker a lot, although it does go away a bit as I drive. When I accelerate or am driving my headlights stay bright but dim when I hit the brakes, slow down, or am at a stop. They brighten back up as soon as I accelerate again. I also noticed the blower motor speeds up and slows down during the same times. On occassion if i have the radio, headlights, blower motor, and defroster on at the same time the lights with dim badly and the radio cuts on and off. It did this once and drained the battery so badly I had to jump it the next time i drove it. To me it seems the the voltage is dropping to much. What do you think?

    1986 Grand Marquis LS - coupe [/url] http://photos.yahoo.com/leo76830
    sigpic
    1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
    Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

    #2
    Sounds like typical crappy 65 amp alternator at the edge of it's limits. Pull and clean all the connections, especially the battery to engine block and block to body ground cables. It should help some with the flickering. I'd also have it load tested at Advance or something. The alternators on these cars really aren't all that hot to begin with, and when they get old, they get weaker. Add to that old wiring with higher resistance and you get just what you have. I'll do my standard reccomendation of a 130 amp alternator if your is in need of replacement.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Comment


      #3
      Well, I changed both of the cables now and the didn't notice any difference. I also used the battery terminal cleaner and put some dialectric grease on the connections. My dad put the battery/ alternator tester on battery and it was showed that the voltage dropped to 11 when I had the lights, radio, and heat on at idle. The alternator I have now is rebuilt and I'm not sure whether I should go ahead and get a new one or another rebuilt. I also want to get the highest amps possible without having to change wiring (gauge). I was wondering whether the voltage regulator may be the cause, and if that is replacable by itself. My dads not sure. I'll find out tomorrow when I take it to the shop and have the whole thing tested. Let me know what you think i should do.

      1986 Grand Marquis LS - coupe [/url] http://photos.yahoo.com/leo76830
      sigpic
      1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
      Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

      Comment


        #4
        Voltage regulator are replacable themselves. I drive an 86 Vic, so we have the same alt. The regulator is about $20 at Advance. However, I've never heard of a regulator that went partialy bad. They fail, or they do not. I would probobly blame one of two things. The battery may be old, and not capable of holding a decent charge. Or the alternator is not producing enough umhp.

        Take off the regulator that is located on the back of the alternator. When you do you with it will be two contact brushes (little blocks of dark grey that are attached to a wire). If these are worn down and less than about 3/16" tall, then they need to be replaced, very cheep item.

        If they are fine, and the battery is known to be good, then the alt needs to be replaced.

        As far as what you can get without changing wiring, the 65amp is the highest. Though a good one will make much more than that. And it is highly doubtfull that you will need more than that. My reman NAPA 65amp alternator has put out 135amps @ 2000rpm. I would either get a reman, or try and get a new one with a lifetime warranty (NAPA does that, I dunno about others).

        Comment


          #5
          pep boys sells 90 amp alts. get one it helps.

          Comment


            #6
            Well, went to my local auto store (Associated Auto) and ended up getting the upgrade heavier duty alternator (89 amps under full load on spec sheet), and it ended up being cheaper than the regular 65 amp replacement. I'm guessing due to lack of demand (box they brought was a lot dustier that the one for the 65 amp). Dad and I put it on and then tested, and the battery wouldn't hold the charge. So I got Deka battery to replace the old Duralast. Only thing I notice now is that there is a whistling/ whining noise that seems to be comming from the alternator, gets loud at about 2,000 rpm. I'm not sure if that's normal and maybe it just needs to break in a bit. Also the plug on the new alternator has the wires permanently attatched because of a previous desgin flaw, so we just cut, crimped, and used the supplied shrink tubes to make the connection.

            1986 Grand Marquis LS - coupe [/url] http://photos.yahoo.com/leo76830
            sigpic
            1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
            Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

            Comment


              #7
              No offence ,, But that sounds like a peice of junk. Crimp on connections? That thing must have been sitten on their shelf for years. bearings sound shot.

              Comment


                #8
                The brand of alternator is New Advantage. The spec sheet shows it was factory tested 8/14/03, and the crimp connections are only for the for the one plug on towards the passenger side. The other plug is still used. The guy at the store said that connection was designed like that because the factory plugs were a known problem (I hate messing with the original wiring and saved the original plug in any case). I still have to see if it quiets any (almost a whistle/ whine, but high pitched and annoying). If not I'm taking it out and right back to get another. But for now the voltage is steady a 14.5, the flickering is gone, and the lights don't dim when I turn things on. Anyone else ever used New Advantage?

                1986 Grand Marquis LS - coupe [/url] http://photos.yahoo.com/leo76830
                sigpic
                1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
                Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Blaze86Vic
                  Voltage regulator are replacable themselves. I drive an 86 Vic, so we have the same alt. The regulator is about $20 at Advance. However, I've never heard of a regulator that went partialy bad. They fail, or they do not. I would probobly blame one of two things. The battery may be old, and not capable of holding a decent charge. Or the alternator is not producing enough umhp.

                  Take off the regulator that is located on the back of the alternator. When you do you with it will be two contact brushes (little blocks of dark grey that are attached to a wire). If these are worn down and less than about 3/16" tall, then they need to be replaced, very cheep item.

                  If they are fine, and the battery is known to be good, then the alt needs to be replaced.

                  As far as what you can get without changing wiring, the 65amp is the highest. Though a good one will make much more than that. And it is highly doubtfull that you will need more than that. My reman NAPA 65amp alternator has put out 135amps @ 2000rpm. I would either get a reman, or try and get a new one with a lifetime warranty (NAPA does that, I dunno about others).
                  so what are they 65amp at idle? or are stocker 65amp at full speed?
                  1999 CVPI
                  Old Rides
                  1988 Ford Mustang GT (trickflow stage 1)
                  1989 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (5.SLO)
                  1989 Ford Thunderbird SC (3.8 Supacharged)

                  Comment


                    #10
                    they dont put out crap at idle - I think 1-2,000 rpms is all it need to give max output, when it needs it.
                    I think every box with a stock alternator suffers some voltage drop when stopped with headlights, blower fan, and/or defrost operating.
                    Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                    'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
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                    85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by 85crownHPP*
                      they dont put out crap at idle - I think 1-2,000 rpms is all it need to give max output, when it needs it.
                      I think every box with a stock alternator suffers some voltage drop when stopped with headlights, blower fan, and/or defrost operating.
                      Actually, mine was putting out 91amps at 850 RPM. I personally think I got a little lucky with the alt that I have now. But honestly for any without an amp 65 is plenty. Hell, I have an amp and some other toys installed and not a problem for me. I've never had the alt fall short at all. I've had one die (after 200,000 miles), one trashed a bearing (crappy reman), and then I have the one I'm on now (lucky reman). I have gone though 3-4 regulators, not on this alt though.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I still say the best bang for your buck is the 130 amp 3g conversion. minor wiring changes but thats just a personal opinion.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Gadget, do you know ho much would a 3G 130A alternator pump out when fitted with a 65A (smaller) pulley? Cause that's the setup I have now, I was tryng to compensate for the RPM difference between my V8 and the V6 the alt came from, also makes changing belts much easier

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Ivan D
                            Gadget, do you know ho much would a 3G 130A alternator pump out when fitted with a 65A (smaller) pulley? Cause that's the setup I have now, I was tryng to compensate for the RPM difference between my V8 and the V6 the alt came from, also makes changing belts much easier
                            There is no need to do that. The 3G is used on V8s as well. Alternators put out peak power around 2000rpm, and even at idle they put out ample flow. Spinning it faster is just making it wear out faster.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Blaze, okay, I'll switch back when I'm due for a new belt (so I can get a longer one), or when (and if) I put the 4.10s in the rear, whetever happens first.

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