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    Stuck windows

    Hey mangs, both my driver and rear driver side windows are stuck on my 97 Town Car. When I got the button I can hear the motor but the window doesn't move. I also hear crunching when the motor is engaged, which alarms me.

    Ideas?
    sigpic
    1989 Ford Crown Victoria
    99K

    #2
    Busted window regulators. Super common on '92+ cars. I've done three out of the four on the '97. The passenger side is currently jammed up anyway, so I'll be four out of four when I get to it.

    I strongly suggest either getting the regulators with the motors or replacing the bushings inside of the motors. They're little nylon things that will disintegrate into a crumbly mess this late in the game. I had to do those when I fixed the rear window regulators. I thought all was good but then the windows stopped working, again.

    Assuming yours have never been replaced before, you will need a drift and drill since the regulators and motor brackets are held in place with pop rivets, save for two bolts near the top. When I did my repairs, I used short bolts, lock washers, and nuts since someday I'll be back in there, but hopefully not soon.


    My Cars:
    -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
    -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

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      #3
      I agree, it's either the motors or the regulators. The problem with the regulators is that they just seem to fall apart. The problem with the motors is usually those worthless bushings. Not much you can do if it's the regulator except replacing it. If it's the motor you can clean it out and then replace those plastic bushings with ball bearings or nuts. That will keep that from happening again unless the whole motor goes out. Whatever it is, it's an easy fix!

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        #4
        +1 the cable is held by PLASTIC on the section that holds the window. Piss poor design because of that failure point. I've replaced the regulators in my front doors on my 93 3 times each. One set of regulators only lasted 3-6 months. As a side note, lube up the felts when you replace the regulator with some silicone spray lube. It will help not break the new regulator.

        Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
        rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
        Originally posted by gadget73
        ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
        Originally posted by dmccaig
        Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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          #5
          Thanks very much mangs.
          sigpic
          1989 Ford Crown Victoria
          99K

          Comment


            #6
            I haven't fixed this just yet(I have a wife, 4 kids under 6 and a FT job)but when I do I have a question...
            Is there a motor and regulator out there that's made better so that this doesn't keep happening?
            Last edited by Mr. Land Yacht; 05-10-2017, 03:12 AM.
            sigpic
            1989 Ford Crown Victoria
            99K

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Mr. Land Yacht View Post
              I haven't fixed this just yet(I have a wife, 4 kids under 6 and a FT job)but when I do I have a question...
              Is there a motor and regulator out there that's made better so that this doesn't keep happening?
              Usually the motors are pretty robust until the nylon bushings wear out. The regulator's cable design is the largest inherent flaw to the setup and that's what usually causes all the problems. Essentially all of the regulators on the market will do the same thing eventually in the future. I'm using AC Delco brand regulators in mine, but most people run with the Dorman ones since they're readily available at most auto part stores.


              My Cars:
              -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
              -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
              -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
              -1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

              Comment


                #8
                If you lube the window mechanism so it moves easily, it helps make it last longer. The cables are a bit wimpy to begin with but when the glass doesn't move free it puts more load on them.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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