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    clear coat

    When I repaint S.U., she'll be getting the same Deep Sandalwood Metallic color that she has now. Would it be necessary to clearcoat a new paint job? The current clear coat is peeling and looks like crap. What are some of your opinions on clearcoat?

    #2
    The highest quality paintjobs are of a "basecoat/clearcoat" paint job, and are more like factory.

    There are cheaper paints, but they are referred to as "single stage" which the clean is part of the paint itself.

    Don't cheap out. Get base clear, or don't get anything IMO...
    1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
    Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

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      #3
      Thanks for the info. I won't cheap out. This is S.U. we're talkin' 'bout. I've got a guy who said he'd paint her for reasonable. I just have to provide the location.

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        #4
        Actually, the highest level solid color show level paint jobs are non-clear coat.

        Most high level paint jobs use clear because it's the best easy way to get a nice level paint job across different colors.

        When I get my Vic painted, it's getting good old acrylic enamel. I have an acrylic enamel paint job on the Vic now. And how does that paint look after well over 200,000 miles, never garage kept, and for 6 years only got waxed bi yearly? If you want your paint to not cause issues get someone to do a quality enamel job. And you will not have to worry about it peeling ever again.

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          #5
          Oh jeez, wait till Chachi hears the rants of the EFI Masta!

          Enamel? While its decent paint, it simply pales in cmparison to base/clear...

          I worked in a bodyshop.. I know these things
          1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
          Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

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            #6
            Hmm, maybe I'll just rattle can her JD green, dye the vinyl JD yellow, and put JD yellow pinstripes on her. I'll do the turbines JD green with JD yellow fins.



            Okay, maybe not.

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              #7
              Originally posted by monterey1962
              Hmm, maybe I'll just rattle can her JD green, dye the vinyl JD yellow, and put JD yellow pinstripes on her. I'll do the turbines JD green with JD yellow fins.



              Okay, maybe not.
              1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
              Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

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                #8
                Go with the clear/paint. If you are worried about the clear peeling, just always keep a good coat of wax on it and you should never have the clear coat problems if it is a good clearcoat.
                2000 Mustang GT "Blondie", 2000 CVPI "Sargent Crusty"

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                  #9
                  Yeah I am waiting for Chachi to chime in on this one. I'll believe you no problem. But, you can keep a good coat of wax on your clear coat and "not have to worry" about it peeling. Or you can get enamel and not have to worry about it peeling. Durability is what I am concerned with I guess. I've never heard of my enamel looks like crap because it's coming off. Just my 2 cents I guess.

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                    #10
                    I've found the vast amajority of peeling base/clear paintjobs are due to improper prep work.
                    1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
                    Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

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                      #11
                      Yeah, clear is a pain to apply properly. If its not done just right its going to come off. Also, you have to consider that factory paint jobs are not exactly the best quality in the world. Enamal is probably more durable and for a light plain color it looks fine, but it just doesn't look the same when you get into metallic or dark colors.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                        #12
                        What about primer? When I strip S.U., it's going to be one section at a time. I still want to be able to take the car out from time to time during the process, if need be. Is there a rattle can primer that would suffice? If so, what brand/type?

                        Might go tool shoppin' this week.

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                          #13
                          the roof, trunk lid and most of the rest of the car thats not the front clip on my 85 are in damn good condition, They still shine. The car has been washed a few times in 6 years and sat outside unwashed for 3 years, 1 of which was under a tree. with just a wash i pulled a lot of oxidation off of it.
                          http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
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                          R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

                          http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

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                            #14
                            I would go with a BC/CC. It's easy to shoot, durable, and looks great.

                            I wouldn't bother with rattle can primer, more so if you plan to leave it on the car for any length of time. It doesn't take much more effort to do it correctly, and it will be more expensive when you get it to a shop if they have to remove old work, if the shop will do it at all. Almost all shops frown upon finishing up a car with home sprayed paint, and some of the best refuse to work on it altogether.

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                              #15
                              holy shnit. i leave for a few days to move to ny. and you guys start loading up on retard pills. a responce to this is going to require me to write a book. some of you are half right and some of you are still waiting for change from a bubble gum maching.
                              I wouldn't bother with rattle can primer, more so if you plan to leave it on the car for any length of time.
                              this is correct if primer is going to be left on for any length of time an apoxi primer should be used. but this is avalible in a spray can. and this all depends on what is being painted. if its bare metal you will need to start with a self etch primer, then a filler primer then a primer sealer. 3 layers of 3 different types of primer.
                              Now, if your car has an enamal single stage paint and you dont want to strip it down to bare metal you will need to repaint with an enamal single stage paint.
                              The car has been washed a few times in 6 years and sat outside unwashed for 3 years, 1 of which was under a tree. with just a wash i pulled a lot of oxidation off of it.
                              this means single stage
                              clear is a pain to apply properly.
                              it can be if your unexperienced
                              If its not done just right its going to come off.
                              only if you use non compatable products
                              you have to consider that factory paint jobs are not exactly the best quality in the world.
                              this is 100% true
                              Enamal is probably more durable
                              not true. Enamal will resolitify. Enamal is applied thicker but it is not more durable. plain waxing will remove Enamal
                              I've found the vast amajority of peeling base/clear paintjobs are due to improper prep work.
                              Very true
                              Enamel? While its decent paint, it simply pales in cmparison to base/clear...
                              +2 BC/CC has a much thiner layer of color because it is just there for pigment the durablity comes from the clear coat. Acrylic enamel has thicker color because it is its own protection.

                              thats all for now. I need to unpack

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