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    Brake lines, need tips and advice

    I've never done brake lines before. I picked up today at AutoZone 2 60" lengths of 3/16 brake line, a tubing cutter, and a flare tool. Neither tool I know how to use and the instructions are very lacking when it comes to instructions. There's also nothing in my manuals. The cutter for the most part appears self-explanitory but my main concern is the flaring tool. How exactly do I use it? Next up, do you guys have any tricks or suggestions to make reaching the distribution block on top of the differential easier? Thanks in advance!
    Save a seal, club a liberal.

    #2
    Dont cut and flare any of the lines! they are already flared for you on both ends, I would measure what you need and buy lines closer to the right size. The line doesnt have to be exactly the right length, you can bend a dip in it to take up some slack. they also dont have to sit exactly the same way they did, just so long as they are out of the way of anything that moves and wont get snagged.

    i would jack up the body just high enough to almost get the rear wheels off the ground and hold it up with jackstands. that ought to give you enough room to turn wrenches, but you might have to 'see' with your hands. Also get some line wrenches to use if you dont have any.

    To use the pipe bender, just lay the tubing over the round part and brace one end against the end sticking out. then use your hand to gently bend the line around the tool. test fit - bend - test fit - bend and so on, then fasten each side once you have the right shape.

    good luck!
    Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
    'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
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    85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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      #3
      So you're saying the lines already have the fitting for our cars? I don't know WTF I was thinking when I bought 2 60" lines. I hate working 3rd shift.
      Save a seal, club a liberal.

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        #4
        yeah - all brake lines Ive seen come with fittings and flared ends already on them. As long as they are standard thread they should work no problem.

        Double flares can be tricky to get right and not leak, so Id avoid it if you can.
        Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
        'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
        sigpic
        85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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          #5
          Ended up having my mechanic do it. I couldn't get around my work schedule or the weather. The weight of the rear was actually forcing the ramps and the plywood deeper into the mud. And I needed the car as soon as possible. Thanks for the help though!
          Save a seal, club a liberal.

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            #6
            How much did he charge you? I'll be doing brakelines as soon as time permits, my current ones look pretty scary. Also can you please ask your mechanic how long was the line from the proportional valve all the way back to the block with the hose over the rear axle, 60" seems to be on the short side for that application.

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              #7
              you wont find one piece to run the whole length - 60" is the longest Ive seen sold.
              you can get fittings to joint 2 lines together to make what you need.
              Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
              'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
              sigpic
              85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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                #8
                He charged me $100. For shits and giggles I called 4 other shops and the prices varied between $150-$200. It's all labor. He said he had a bitch of a time too because the old lines had rusted where they mount into the drum, the rubber fittings on the distribution block were rotted, and he had a hell of a time reaching in there to undo the old lines. And this was on a lift. :geek2:
                Save a seal, club a liberal.

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                  #9
                  Of course you know the really long line from the proportion valve up front all the way to the rubber hose that leads to the axle is probably ready to go!!

                  My old 73 Bu went the other order. Long line blew, had it fixed 1 week later the lines on the axle blew.

                  Now that I found the www.classictube.com and others they can make ANY lines if you send em in.

                  I did replace the long rear line in my 93 myself. I used the pre-flared metric bubble flare lines but cut and flared the union of the two long lines to make a clean install. Or you can just route it to take up the extra length with a loop or two.
                  2004 Marauder M79 90K miles Jmod!! 14.85 @95.63
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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Chevyguy
                    Of course you know the really long line from the proportion valve up front all the way to the rubber hose that leads to the axle is probably ready to go!!

                    That was actually replaced already. 2 days after I got it back, the lines on the axle blew.
                    Save a seal, club a liberal.

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                      #11
                      That sounds right for the charge to replace the lines...I Just got 150 to replace lines on a 69 c10 chev truck...Customer was happy and the tech made money as well.Some lines can still be had pre bent but you have to look hard for them.We did a 90 or 91 crown vic front to rear lines last fall.Car came down from Michigan.The lines came in a box all nice and neet...
                      President He Man Woman Haters Club

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                        #12
                        I would love at some point to replace all the lines with custom stainless steel ones. Including the rubber lines.
                        Save a seal, club a liberal.

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                          #13
                          I need to do front lines on my car. They're not so great looking. I have the new ones in the trunk too, just need to put them on.
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

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                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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