Headlight Resto

[zwack88]

Ok so I did it like I said I was gonna. It was pretty simple just time consuming.

This is what I started out with,

You can see it is starting to peel at the top. It was much worse in person but the camera made them look ok.

Next I wetsanded them with 400 grit and made sure to sand out all the pits and inperfections,

I know it is kind of scary and looks like it won't come back but she will.

Here is what I used, a buffer, 3M Rubbing Compound, 3M Finish Restorer, and Some Meguiars NXT wax to protect it.


Here it is after 3 passes using the rubbing compound.


I did a couple more using the Rubbing compound. I then switched to the Finish Restorer (make sure to change the bonnet on the buffer when you change compounds). I then did it till it was perfectly clear. After that I put on 3 coats of NXT wax to protect.

Here are the finished results.



The drivers side I did about 2 weeks ago (couldn't take doing them both at once). In the pics it does look lighter on the older side. Not so much in real life it might be the light. I will keep watch on them for fading. If they don't fade and hold up I just saved myself $60. This technique should work for 98+ vics, 95+ Grand Marquis and Towncars.

[Grand Marquis GT]

They look like new. Wow.

[boXman]

Damn! They look great!

[zwack88]

Thanks guys. Now if they hold up I will be happy.

[DreadfullyDespized]

that goes great for exterrior...maine reason I always replaced is because the interrior went. The exterrior looked shitloads better with novus and a buffer wheel from the dremel.

[zwack88]

Ya the inside I have notice has a couple of flaws but nothing major.

[mrltd]

I need to do the same thing with the lights on my protege...

[nitroracer]

Good work!


Why can't ford make the turn signals and headlights the same damn size, or a single part! I hate that gap, the SN95's have a weird look to them too.

[zwack88]

I hear you on that. The gap makes it look like an after thought.

[grandpaslincoln]

CLEAR!!!!!!!!!!!

[83countrysquire]

do ya think it would work on chrome or stainless steel

[gadget73]

You could just use metal polish for chrome or stainless.


Looks good man. Thats the crap thing about plastic headlights, they get all nasty with age. The work truck at the marina I used to work at had headlights so yellow you could barely see with them.

[zwack88]

Ya I would not sand chrome or stainless. You can use certain rubbing and buffing compounds to bring them back though. Thanks guys.

[88Vic]

Holy :bump: Batman!

I finally found this thread, I was looking for it. When I get my truck I imagine it'll need this since i've noticed plenty of 87-91 F150's with gross looking headlights. I'll try this process with the head and tail lights and put in LED bulbs which will make a huge difference. I just wanted to know, how long did this take? I'd like to be able to do this on a saturday maybe and I don't want to start on it and not have enough time to finish.

*Edit* I also have a question: what exactly is wet sanding and how is it different from normal sanding? Is it the sand paper type or what?

[86GmLsCoupe]

Looks good Zwack, been itching to do this on my friend's sad looking yellow/green Mark VII lights. Wet sanding is usually done to cars in the body shop to remove orange peel/defects from the paint finish. It's usually the black paper (at least with 3m) and its made to be used with water whereas as normal paper would deteriorate and clog up. I want to say this method is a little less abrasive, also depending on the grit you use. Paper mainly comes in the 1,500-2,000 grit range for clear coat stuff(I'm sure there are others as well). With the paper, you just have to remember that you have to successively step up to a finer grit each time to remove the previous one's scratches. The 3m compound I have I believe removes up to 1,500 grit scratches so I could safely stop there.

On a side note. Still very happy I have nice shiny glass sealed beams.