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    Power windows

    My passenger side window won't go down. (The good news is it isn't stuck inside the door. The bad news is it's 75-degrees and I haven't charged the AC yet). Could it be the window motor or something else?


    '90 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
    Baseline 5.0L numbers totally stock, 123 rwhp, 239 rwtq
    5.4L swap coming soon.

    #2
    Usally the window motor or the gears in it. I have both
    Scars are tatoos of the fearless

    Comment


      #3
      can you hear the motor turn? can you 'help' it up and down?
      Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
      'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
      sigpic
      85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

      Comment


        #4
        I can hear the motor, but the window won't move. (It's raining now, I'm glad it's up). Any ideas?


        '90 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
        Baseline 5.0L numbers totally stock, 123 rwhp, 239 rwtq
        5.4L swap coming soon.

        Comment


          #5
          Gears are stripped.
          '89 Ford LTD Crown Vic - '92 Ford F-150 Custom -
          '95 Ford Bronco XL -

          sigpic :rebel:

          Comment


            #6
            Or the bushings are pulverized...

            Happens all the time...
            1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
            Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

            Comment


              #7
              Yup, usually they go down and not up and you just get 'clunk, clunk, clunk' from the window motor. Pull the door panel, drill the dimples out, and pull the motor. You can get the rollers for like $7 a pack at Advance.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #8
                heres some usefull info -

                http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=1529
                Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                sigpic
                85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

                Comment


                  #9
                  Pete, thanks for the link. Anyone know how much a shop would charge for this job? I don't want to deal with this issue. I'm getting a little fed up with these little things.


                  '90 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
                  Baseline 5.0L numbers totally stock, 123 rwhp, 239 rwtq
                  5.4L swap coming soon.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    IF they are willing to do only the bushing replacement (they'll probly try to sell you a whole motor) then probably around $75 to $125.... add $100 or more for retail cost of a motor if that gets replaced. Dont let them tell you they have to remove the regulator...1 - 1.5 hours labor tops
                    Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                    'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                    sigpic
                    85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

                    Comment


                      #11
                      They'll probably tell you it needs a whole motor, even tho it won't.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I'll do the job so I don't get screwed.


                        '90 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
                        Baseline 5.0L numbers totally stock, 123 rwhp, 239 rwtq
                        5.4L swap coming soon.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Sad that you have to do that, but true. Its not a really bad job, honestly. Grease up all the moving parts while you're in there with some white grease too and it'll move better. I'd also take the motor itself apart and put some grease in the bushing on the end where the brushes are, clean the commutator up with some steel wool, and grease the other end of the shaft where it passes through the housing into the "transmission" area of the motor.
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Thanks for the info.


                            '90 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
                            Baseline 5.0L numbers totally stock, 123 rwhp, 239 rwtq
                            5.4L swap coming soon.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              NA, just finished working on my rear window motors about an hour ago, not a bad job at all. Pulling the panels is a PITA, but that's about it - as Thain said drill 1/2" holes where the dimples are, then a 5/8" deep socket gets the motor out. When you put the motors back in make sure to grease the hell out of that toothed rack they move as sometimes it rubs againts the motor's "transmission" and having it dry means lots of noise and eventually seizing up.

                              Comment

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