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New gear IS bad...

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    New gear IS bad...

    Just found out today the slop in my steering IS coming from the new gear. There is no noticable play in any of the steering shafts. Everything "downstream" of the box is tight. I'd say there is about an inch of play at the steering wheel in either direction. Had the wife turn the wheel lightly in both directions while I watched under the hood, engine off. The shaft was moving alright but no movement downstream of the box. And I could hear clunking in the box. Driving it is no fun, I'm chasing the steering all over the road. Feels almost unsafe.

    My old steering gear had less play than this one. What a fucking headache. Time to take it out and exchange it for another. Fuck....

    Cars, luck and me don't mix I guess. Really sucks when you have to drive 300 miles to fix it.
    1995 Grand Marquis LS, digi dash, loaded
    124,000 miles

    Mods:99 PI steering gear, harsh rear IAS shocks, front KYB gas adjusts, HPP rims with Bridgestone Potenza G009's, Walker dual exhaust with direct fit Magnaflow cats

    #2
    Sounds like someone made a boo-boo at the remanufacturer.

    Comment


      #3
      that sucks......good luck so far with used 99-02 pi boxes here.......can u get another one under warranty?

      1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
      2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
      1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
      1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
      2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
      1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

      please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

      Comment


        #4
        I thought there were adjustments on the box to tighten up the slop?
        Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
        Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by lincolnmania
          that sucks......good luck so far with used 99-02 pi boxes here.......can u get another one under warranty?
          Yes, I just picked up another one today. Took the old box out Friday night. Its a 97-02 HPP spec box(STG-36). 99-02 PI boxes are non-EVO(STG-35).
          I wish I would have got the PI box now because I'm having problems with the EVO system. The 99-02 PI box is stiff enough not to need it. I took back the new pump I bought as well because I think its the EVO valve thats sticking. Figured I might as well try a new one.
          1995 Grand Marquis LS, digi dash, loaded
          124,000 miles

          Mods:99 PI steering gear, harsh rear IAS shocks, front KYB gas adjusts, HPP rims with Bridgestone Potenza G009's, Walker dual exhaust with direct fit Magnaflow cats

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by grandpaslincoln
            I thought there were adjustments on the box to tighten up the slop?
            Adjustments to the box are supposed to be done with the box on the bench and with special tools. But I did try adjusting it anyways because I was so frustrated. I turned it about 1/4 turn in either direction. Tightening it just made the box feel stiffer/binding. Loosening was the opposite. The play in the wheel was constant. The play seemed to be coming from the input shaft.

            Besides, if you need to make adjustments on a newly rebuilt box right after installing it, chances are its fucked up. Should have been ready to go right out of the box. To make matters worse, it was $370.00 from the dealer. I don't like to buy used stuff but it seems that might have worked out better. Oh well. The new box better work.
            1995 Grand Marquis LS, digi dash, loaded
            124,000 miles

            Mods:99 PI steering gear, harsh rear IAS shocks, front KYB gas adjusts, HPP rims with Bridgestone Potenza G009's, Walker dual exhaust with direct fit Magnaflow cats

            Comment


              #7
              did it work?

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Johnnyiroc
                did it work?
                Mixed results but overall better than before.

                Replacing the pump a second time fixed the variable P/S problem. The pump I originally got from the dealer looked like the EVO valve was not new. When I'd slow down after high speed driving (70mph or more) and take an off ramp curve, the steering would stay way too heavy until I almost stopped or I wrenched on the wheel hard enough. The 2nd pump I got looked like it had a new shiny EVO valve on it. The system works perfect now.

                As for the gear, it still has that wierd dead spot on center, just like the first gear I installed (its definetly in the box). I suppose perhaps its normal for these gears. It says on the p71 website the 97+ boxes have a "detent mechanism" for better on center feel. I guess... In some ways, it feels better but its strange having that play there. Mabey I just have to get used to it.

                The gear does feel alot better when making turns. Feels tighter and more precise. I STILL have to turn the wheel back to center after making turns but I can live with that for now. I think thats a combination of marginal ball joints(not sure if they are binding for sure), the gear box being new and tight and caster settings that could be cranked up a bit. Unfortunatly, the place I had it aligned at didn't want to tweak the caster settings as they are well "within spec".

                Parts replaced in last 6 months:

                Steering gear
                pump
                lower steering shaft
                4 tie rods
                sleeves
                pitman arm
                idler arm
                Last edited by mrbear3800; 07-02-2006, 05:01 PM.
                1995 Grand Marquis LS, digi dash, loaded
                124,000 miles

                Mods:99 PI steering gear, harsh rear IAS shocks, front KYB gas adjusts, HPP rims with Bridgestone Potenza G009's, Walker dual exhaust with direct fit Magnaflow cats

                Comment


                  #9
                  Glad to hear it is somewhat better....my steeriing wouldnt return either, until I made some non greasable parts greasable....is that how you spell greasable? Ah who cares.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    The only parts left to make greaseable(don't know how to spell it for sure...lol) are the ball joints. They are original except for the pass side lower, which is a Moog greasable unit. It looks old, though.

                    I'm hoping the ball joints are causing the binding feeling and the lack of return force at the steering wheel. Then perhaps that play in the box won't be as noticable.
                    1995 Grand Marquis LS, digi dash, loaded
                    124,000 miles

                    Mods:99 PI steering gear, harsh rear IAS shocks, front KYB gas adjusts, HPP rims with Bridgestone Potenza G009's, Walker dual exhaust with direct fit Magnaflow cats

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Steering shaft u-joints... check em out real good. Have seen many bind up. Shoot some wd-40 all over the one beneath the brake booster & see if that stops it. That tends to usually be the one to cause this.
                      :worship: Aeros r00l.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I tried that long ago. Didn't make a difference.
                        1995 Grand Marquis LS, digi dash, loaded
                        124,000 miles

                        Mods:99 PI steering gear, harsh rear IAS shocks, front KYB gas adjusts, HPP rims with Bridgestone Potenza G009's, Walker dual exhaust with direct fit Magnaflow cats

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by mrbear3800
                          The only parts left to make greaseable(don't know how to spell it for sure...lol) are the ball joints. They are original except for the pass side lower, which is a Moog greasable unit. It looks old, though.

                          I'm hoping the ball joints are causing the binding feeling and the lack of return force at the steering wheel. Then perhaps that play in the box won't be as noticable.
                          Could be, Ive seen it before. You can disconnect some things and jack it up and try to move the hub as if you were steering it, but by hand from say the rotor, and see how easy or hard they turn independently left and right side. Most shops stick a huge pry bar between them, and pry like hell, any noticible movement means they are bad, or at least wearing out. Most ball joints can be drilled and a zerk inserted, then drive it a while and see what happens. If you do 1 at a time then drive, you can see which one it is!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Yes, I thought about popping the tie rod ends off the knuckles to see if there is too much resistance in the ball joints. Only problem is, a problem in the ball joints may only show up when the suspension is loaded(ie; car sitting on the ground). Not sure how to get around this unless there is a way to put a jack stand under the lower control arm and lower the car's weight onto it.

                            Is it hard to pop the tie rod ends off the steering knuckle? I have never done that particular task before. Steering/suspension work sucks. Rather have engine problems....lol...
                            1995 Grand Marquis LS, digi dash, loaded
                            124,000 miles

                            Mods:99 PI steering gear, harsh rear IAS shocks, front KYB gas adjusts, HPP rims with Bridgestone Potenza G009's, Walker dual exhaust with direct fit Magnaflow cats

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by mrbear3800
                              Only problem is, a problem in the ball joints may only show up when the suspension is loaded(ie; car sitting on the ground). Not sure how to get around this unless there is a way to put a jack stand under the lower control arm and lower the car's weight onto it.
                              It's called getting an alignment LOL...
                              At the alignment bay they should have a setup which does just that....load the suspension but keep the car off the ground.

                              Even so, all you have to do is get a huge prybar or piece of pipe to find out whether your balljoints are shot.
                              After all the crap you have been through I'm sure you've had it aligned enough times to know whether it's an alignment issue or not...

                              Is it hard to pop the tie rod ends off the steering knuckle? I have never done that particular task before. Steering/suspension work sucks. Rather have engine problems....lol...
                              All I can say is PB Blaster is a decent product. A picklefork will help.

                              You should pick up a Haynes or equivalent manual if you don't have much experience but wish to do some maintainece(sp) to your vehicle. It's cheap and will answer many questions about your vehicle. There are pictures and basic explainations of many things.
                              Let us know how you make out...
                              My car is a Shelby SVT Cobra GT Boss Grand Marquis Type R

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