Did the compression tests tonight, lowest was cyl 3, at 7 bar, highest cyl 4 at 8 bar, rest were pretty much spot on 7,5 bar. And of course the tester had a long shaft so i couldn't check cylinders 7 & 8. Also the tester was a push-against-the-spark-plug-hole-and-hold-for-dear-life-style of tester because of the 4 screw-on caps not one did fit.
How do I temporarily disable the air pump to make sure it doesn't leak air anywhere? Can I unplug the two solenoids, does that turn off the pump or do I need to take off the belt to completely stop the thing?
@gadget73
I unhooked and plugged the egr line, I'd say the misfiring got even worse, it happened even on the highway all the way to around 60 MPH. Going faster, not really anything, although giving less throttle (i.e. downhills) it started again. A stab of throttle and it kinda disappears. I'll plug it back in and drive around to make sure it was about that or just this turd going for the worse by itself.
The TPS was one of the things I changed before I took the car to the shop, the thing gave codes for TPS, EGR sensor and IDM circuit (post #37). After I changed the TPS and EGR sensor, I haven't had the car stall at all.
How do I temporarily disable the air pump to make sure it doesn't leak air anywhere? Can I unplug the two solenoids, does that turn off the pump or do I need to take off the belt to completely stop the thing?
@gadget73
I unhooked and plugged the egr line, I'd say the misfiring got even worse, it happened even on the highway all the way to around 60 MPH. Going faster, not really anything, although giving less throttle (i.e. downhills) it started again. A stab of throttle and it kinda disappears. I'll plug it back in and drive around to make sure it was about that or just this turd going for the worse by itself.
The TPS was one of the things I changed before I took the car to the shop, the thing gave codes for TPS, EGR sensor and IDM circuit (post #37). After I changed the TPS and EGR sensor, I haven't had the car stall at all.
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