Don't go by me on this but I think that CFI isn't a really modifiable unit. Inlike Carbs or EFI.
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:walks outside, gooses the gas, and turns the key:Originally posted by 86VickyLX View PostYou can do mods just like you could do with a carb except you don't have to worry about it being a bitch to start in the cold
:varoom:
So what's this talks about trouble starting carbureted cars on a cold day?
Rev: Personally, I highly recommend a carb swap. Edelbrock part numbers to watch out for: 2121 (Performer 289 intake) and 1404 (500cfm four-barrel carburetor). There are a few options for modifying the ignition system (fairly straightforward), and other than that you mostly just need a low-pressure fuel pump and you're good.
Last edited by 1987cp; 01-26-2008, 01:46 AM.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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Yeah Im not looking for anything crazy.
I only want 220 250 ponys to make me smile.
Enough to feel it but not so out of control that the wife cant drive it. lol
So I have the H-Pipe planned soon.
Then possible the carb swap.
For that I need.... new intake, carb, distributor, and a low pressure fuel pump(between 5-7 psi if I recall correctly). Now with the new fuel pump can I connect it to the original wiring?
Thanks again for everyones help.Comment
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Yep, those power goals are quite realistic, even though you'll be limited to flat-tappet cams unless you want to swap motors or spend megabucks on a conversion kit.Originally posted by ReverendRevival View Post
My personal choice for a low-pressure pump when converting my '87 was to plumb in a stock-replacement fuel pump for a '79 LTD. Set me back about $17, and it's designed to put out about 5-6psi - perfect for what Edelbrock recommends for their carburetors. You might also check your particular vehicle; some CFI cars appear to have come with a low-pressure electric pump in the tank with a secondary high-pressure pump on the framerail. If that's the case, it may be easier to leave the stock in-tank pump and add an aftermarket pressure regulator.
For ignition, some of us are running a stock Duraspark distributor with different modules to fire it, but one neat option is a Proform HEI for about $185. It's essentially an ignition system in a can and requires only an ignition hot and a good ground, though it may only be available with a steel gear:
2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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Nice. Now like I said I am a novice.
I know you have to get a loklar kit for the TV or modify the rod. Any one have any pics or personal experience on how much of a pain in the ass that is or is it pretty straight forward?
Man its like having a panther think tank or brain trust in here.
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You mean like this?
Installing these kits was actually really easy. The worst part for me is having to reposition the bracket whenever I have the carb off, so I'm thinking on welding or brazing an extension on there to go to the other rear carb stud to eliminate the guesswork during routine reinstallation. Which reminds me, I should get hardened washers for the studs as well ......
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Huh, that pic shows the Offy intake I ended up swapping out for an Edelbrock #2121 dual-plane. Reminds me of that guy who's talking seriously about putting that same manifold on a bone-stock engine .....Last edited by 1987cp; 01-26-2008, 03:59 PM.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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Nice. Looks simple enough.
Gotta start small though. Got the electrical done.
Just fixed the door lock actuator today so now I can lock my car. Then exhaust followed by the carb swap I think.Comment
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Is the idle still surging? Did you go to get codes scanned yet?Originally posted by ReverendRevival View PostComment
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No codes yet. Havent had time, so I started fixing the little stuff I can do at the house without going into town. Had the alternator already. Then I couldn't lock the passenger door. Last night the friggin' switch decides to work and lock the door but not unlock. So when I went today to disconnect the actuator I realized the door was locked shut. Needless to say there was a lot of cursing and yelling. Man taking the door panel off with the door closed was horrible.lol I even had the camera out to do a thread about freeing up the stuck door lock but was so heated about having to remove it with a shut door I for got the pics. Oh well atleast she is still running half way decent.Comment
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that sucks......been there done that.
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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Eeew, I can imagine. Frozen lock solenoids FTL!Originally posted by ReverendRevival View Post
One of these days I need to just buy brand-new solenoids like a few guys have done, but in the meantime my power locks are disconnected and I'm running armrest trim from a vehicle without power locks. :p
2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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Went fairly smooth, but it was deffinetly a challenge. The rest of my power locks still work, for now anyways, so I left them in tact.Comment
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Scott I know you got a shop over there do you suicides. I was thinking if I make it to ScottFest I might either stay late or come early and have you suicide the rears.Comment
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i havent been able to get the body shop going yet, and that sounds like a bit out of my list of talents, not saying it couldnt be done, just i've never done it.......i have about a yr of body shop experience, the rest is mechanical....it started out with bikes and lawnmowers, went on to cars lol, i got my start as a career in the body shop in 1996, from there to meineke and then to an independent shop where i worked from 99-05 with the exception of 8 months i worked for a honda specialist till i started my own gig fall 2005
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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So I been reading for days and am lost. From what I can tell some of the '84 cfi's had 2 fuel pumps. If I do have both pumps I have read that I can bypass the one on the frame rail and be ready for carb. I also read that my intake will accept a 2bbl carb so then I would just need an HEI?
Or am I just confused.Comment
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