I changed the water pump, all the hoses and the radiator cuz it was the original and i still notice the antifreeze leak.its right behind the water pump still in 2 little dips by where the pumps back is and connects to the timing cover i believe?i suspect its the thermostat or the intake gasket.if it was the intake gasket wouldnt it be leaking all over from the front of it to the back?Ill take pics when i get off of work if my description is too half-assed lol
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oh yea definately.the waterpumps fine. i believe that its either the t-stat housing because theres a little of the black crust stuff there or the gasket on the intake, cuz theres a little crust in the front of that as well, just not very much.sigpic-The Crown(Kodiak)1989,150K Miles,5.0LOpo,autolamps,slicktop,power windows and locks,yet still not good enough to be LX:confused:
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sigpic-The Crown(Kodiak)1989,150K Miles,5.0LOpo,autolamps,slicktop,power windows and locks,yet still not good enough to be LX:confused:
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i'd try a new gasket on that thermostat housing... quick / easy to do. can you borrow / rent a coolant system pressurizer? that's how i ended up finding my leak, the coolant was pudding up in a spot nowhere near the actual leak.... (Leak was lower radiator hose, coolant was puddling up on valvecover, go figure! best guess is that the fan or the belts was spreading the coolant around, i'd never seen anything like it before.)1986 Ford Contry Squire: HO engine swap, 3G alternator, 3.73 gears, rear air springs, Class III 8000 lb hitch... potential tow rig for my Blazer trail toy??
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i was thinking it was the intake gaskets because i clean it up in the morning and it doesnt leak when the car is running, or when its hot, only when its cooling down.And it seems like that would be it because it looks like it leaks straight down into those little valleys right behind the water pump.is it a lot of work to replace those or should i take it to my local shop?Last edited by Jonsey; 02-12-2009, 12:31 PM.sigpic-The Crown(Kodiak)1989,150K Miles,5.0LOpo,autolamps,slicktop,power windows and locks,yet still not good enough to be LX:confused:
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LMAO...Its Nothing You Guys Said It Is,I Just Had The Same Problem After My H.O.+ Conversion. Our Timing Covers Have 2 Different Water Pumps A Cast Iron One And An Aluminum One. The Cast Iron Pump Has 2 Extra Bolt Holes And Came On Police Cars & Cars With The Towing Package. Those 2 Extra Bolt Holes Are Not Accessible With An Aluminum Pump, Therefore Once The Water Pump Is Changed Even If You Use RTV Sealant It Most Likely Will Leak In Those 2 Little Pits On Both Sides Of The Top Of The Timing Chain Cover...The Fix: 1.Take The Water Pump Back Off 2. Get Both Gaskets Pump To Plate & Plate To Cover By Felpro (The Blue Ones) 3. Find 2 Bolts That Have The Same Thread Pattern (Ex. Extra Intake Bolts, Water Pump Bolts Etc) 4. Cut The Bolts To Approx. 1 1/4 Inch And Slot The Tops With A Hacksaw Or Dremal Tool Cut A Groove Just Deep Enough To Get A Regular Screwdriver To Screw It In The Cover And Recess It Slightly, Threadlocker Is Optional I Used It Due To The Fact Its A Permenant Fix And Those Bolts Never Need To Come Out Again 5. Take RTV Sealant And Put Over The Recess's On The Cover. 6. Install Both Pump Gaskets & Pump And U Will Never Have This Problem Again Trust Mesigpic351w .030, B303, 1.6 Roller Rockers, GT40P Heads Mild Port Job,351w Lightning Lower & Explorer Upper,65mm TB, Custom CAI, 24# Injectors, Adj FPR, 1/2 Phenolic Spacer, TPS Enhancer, Shift Kit, 2400 Stall, Hi-Rev Govenor, MMC Alcoa Driveshaft, 3.73 Trac Lok, Underdrive Pulleys, Electric Fan, MSD Street Fire Coil, MSD 6AL Ignition 12.35 @114 mph spinning through 1st gear
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The extra water pump bolts are in the center of the timing cover. If ford built the motor with those holes empty why would they suddenly leak 20 years later? It could also be you got 2 high spots one on the cover and one on the pump. Mine was like that and would blow gaskets without mercy.1989 Grand Marquis LS
flat black, 650 double pumper, random cam, hei, stealth intake, Police front springs, Wagon rear, Police rear bar, wagon front ,exploder wheels, 205/60-15 fronts 275/60-15 rears, 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" offroad x pipe, Eclipse front bucket seats, Custom floor shifter, 4.10 gears, aluminum driveshaft and daily driven. 16.77@83mph
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since im getting all this input now lol what do you guys suggest i replace?i would think it would just get worse over time but its been like this for about a monthLast edited by Jonsey; 02-12-2009, 02:44 PM.sigpic-The Crown(Kodiak)1989,150K Miles,5.0LOpo,autolamps,slicktop,power windows and locks,yet still not good enough to be LX:confused:
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i'm a lazy man without a lot of time. I might try the thermostat gasket just for kicks, after that i'd get the pressure tester so i make sure i fix the right thing instead of just guessin....1986 Ford Contry Squire: HO engine swap, 3G alternator, 3.73 gears, rear air springs, Class III 8000 lb hitch... potential tow rig for my Blazer trail toy??
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Pressure test it, you'll find the leak real quick. Make sure you mop up the puddle with a rag before you start, that way you can see where its coming from.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Originally posted by gstak07 View PostLMAO...Its Nothing You Guys Said It Is,I Just Had The Same Problem After My H.O.+ Conversion. Our Timing Covers Have 2 Different Water Pumps A Cast Iron One And An Aluminum One. The Cast Iron Pump Has 2 Extra Bolt Holes And Came On Police Cars & Cars With The Towing Package. Those 2 Extra Bolt Holes Are Not Accessible With An Aluminum Pump, Therefore Once The Water Pump Is Changed Even If You Use RTV Sealant It Most Likely Will Leak In Those 2 Little Pits On Both Sides Of The Top Of The Timing Chain Cover...The Fix: 1.Take The Water Pump Back Off 2. Get Both Gaskets Pump To Plate & Plate To Cover By Felpro (The Blue Ones) 3. Find 2 Bolts That Have The Same Thread Pattern (Ex. Extra Intake Bolts, Water Pump Bolts Etc) 4. Cut The Bolts To Approx. 1 1/4 Inch And Slot The Tops With A Hacksaw Or Dremal Tool Cut A Groove Just Deep Enough To Get A Regular Screwdriver To Screw It In The Cover And Recess It Slightly, Threadlocker Is Optional I Used It Due To The Fact Its A Permenant Fix And Those Bolts Never Need To Come Out Again 5. Take RTV Sealant And Put Over The Recess's On The Cover. 6. Install Both Pump Gaskets & Pump And U Will Never Have This Problem Again Trust MeBuilder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons
Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords
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Originally posted by gstak07 View PostLMAO...Its Nothing You Guys Said It Is,I Just Had The Same Problem After My H.O.+ Conversion. Our Timing Covers Have 2 Different Water Pumps A Cast Iron One And An Aluminum One. The Cast Iron Pump Has 2 Extra Bolt Holes And Came On Police Cars & Cars With The Towing Package. Those 2 Extra Bolt Holes Are Not Accessible With An Aluminum Pump, Therefore Once The Water Pump Is Changed Even If You Use RTV Sealant It Most Likely Will Leak In Those 2 Little Pits On Both Sides Of The Top Of The Timing Chain Cover...The Fix: 1.Take The Water Pump Back Off 2. Get Both Gaskets Pump To Plate & Plate To Cover By Felpro (The Blue Ones) 3. Find 2 Bolts That Have The Same Thread Pattern (Ex. Extra Intake Bolts, Water Pump Bolts Etc) 4. Cut The Bolts To Approx. 1 1/4 Inch And Slot The Tops With A Hacksaw Or Dremal Tool Cut A Groove Just Deep Enough To Get A Regular Screwdriver To Screw It In The Cover And Recess It Slightly, Threadlocker Is Optional I Used It Due To The Fact Its A Permenant Fix And Those Bolts Never Need To Come Out Again 5. Take RTV Sealant And Put Over The Recess's On The Cover. 6. Install Both Pump Gaskets & Pump And U Will Never Have This Problem Again Trust Mesigpic-The Crown(Kodiak)1989,150K Miles,5.0LOpo,autolamps,slicktop,power windows and locks,yet still not good enough to be LX:confused:
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