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    #16
    EPA approved and not found to cause possible destruction in the system, basically its R12 or R134a. There are others, but many are not DOT or EPA approved, and a lot are based on isobutane or other flammable gasses. I've heard stories of them eating out the condensor or evaporator as well. Truthfully though, you could just pump the thing up with propane and it would work. Not sure how well, but it wouldn't destroy anything. One of these days I actually would like to try gassing up an old R12 system with propane just to see how well it works.

    R12 is still available, but last I saw a price it was like 500 bucks for a 30 lb cylinder and i think they were asking 40 bucks for a 1 lb can? . R12 kicks ass, no doubt about it but it is expensive.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Comment


      #17
      don't bother trying to find R12.the freon would be worth almost as much as the car. just convert it to 134a. my 134a converted wagon keeps me cool and it's been 115 around here. propane would work if you're willing to deal with the fire hazzard. one little leak plus one bad spark plug wire could mean BOOM! not to mention if you were to have a front end accident...
      '88 Colony Park, white with wood grain contact paper, K code axle, hose pliers on heater hoses, factory duals, big plans in the future...

      '83 Toyota 4x4, 31x10.50 15, could use a new carb, custom humidifying holes in the roof, mud based paint...

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        #18
        Stupid A.C. switch.....

        Finally got the switch on and all fixed up.....It was a fucking hassel to get the right switch.....I had ordered the switch for R134A from advanced..because they only had R12's in stock.....and thats fine I dont mind waiting a day but when I went to screw it on and make it tight the plastic piece cracked and freeon was spraying everywhere..so i called them up and they said it would take 3-5 days for another(fuck it Il go somewhere else)....Ughh. So then I go to pepboys to get one (because its close) and I get home and as Im screwing it on I notice its one for R12...(Mother..F***)...When i specifically told the guy on the phone I need one for R12...So I called pep boys back up and told them what happened..and he said there is no specifications for the switch and I should try the dealership (so fuck me right)..anyway I take it back and try autozone across the street (and I hate autozone cuz they never have anything) and sure as shit they tell me the same thing pep boys told me. So I ended up going to nappa and paying 26 dollars for the right part..and took back the cracked one to advanced...Ughhhhh

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          #19
          lol @ getting dealer parts for our cars.
          Originally posted by gadget73
          There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
          91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
          93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
          Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
          Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
          95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

          Comment


            #20
            OEM switches are adjustable, so the dealer is a viable source. Back the adjustment screw out 1/4 turn and its good to go.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by 86GmLsCoupe View Post
              I would have the pressures checked to ensure they're within range. Then replace the switch, it screws off/on in less than a min and does not open the system. Also, and this was my problem, if you're running a converted system r12->r134a, make sure you use the r134a switch or else you're going to have the same problem.
              I'm running the R-12 one and I'm not experiencing any problems with pressure.

              Comment


                #22
                Yea I've heard that they can be adjusted, and supposedly mine was by the shop that did the first conversion in the 90's. However, no matter how good the pressures were, the compressor kept loosing power and the WOT was always energizing. I didn't realize the pressure switch killed power via the WOT relay and my Helm book and EVTM didn't cover it. Anyhow, a cheap part got my ac back so I'm happy.
                sigpic
                1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
                Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

                Comment


                  #23
                  I wouldve used an OEM part but I wanted to get it fixed in a hurry cuz I use my A.C. everyday after work because Im in the hot sun all day and its nice to cool off with..But I went with the R134A because of what 86GMLScoupe said...But im happy, Its working fine..

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by 86GmLsCoupe View Post
                    Yea I've heard that they can be adjusted, and supposedly mine was by the shop that did the first conversion in the 90's. However, no matter how good the pressures were, the compressor kept loosing power and the WOT was always energizing. I didn't realize the pressure switch killed power via the WOT relay and my Helm book and EVTM didn't cover it. Anyhow, a cheap part got my ac back so I'm happy.
                    the pressure switch does not kill power via the WOT relay. The only thing wired to that is the ECM.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Comment


                      #25
                      I dunno what it was then and found no answer from my books. I couldn't see how it would either but I as soon as I replaced the switch it stopped energizing. I'm just happy it works now. As far as oem parts for the a/c, I got what was available and reasonably priced, the rest is Four Seasons brand which is fine.
                      sigpic
                      1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
                      Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

                      Comment

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