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Finally starting on the franken-cruiser!!!!

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    Finally starting on the franken-cruiser!!!!

    finally starting the 86 grand marquis project. the car sat for 2 years at my job because i couldn't afford to get anything for it, i happened to get lucky with some really decent freebies like a mild cam, /30 over pistons and matching crank, so now is the time to get started! got the engine and trans pulled friday after work, i'm going to focus on the engine first, then a 5 speed swap!















    i'll try to use something other than my cell phone camera next time, lol

    Nick

    #2
    Good stuff, man. Replace those motor mounts while you have it all apart.
    For the 5spd, do everything you can while the motor is still out of the car- build your pedals, make a mock drawing, and drill the holes for your cable in the firewall, as well as swap the brake booster while it's all apart- you'll need the booster from a later GM to make sure the master cylinder bolt spacing is the same.

    You're off to a solid start, just keep a decent pace and don't let it sit on the backburner for too long.
    2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
    1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
    1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

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      #3
      thanks, i plan on trying to clean up the engine bay while its apart, route wires better, paint, make covers for all the stupid vac lines and bird nest wiring, lol. i'm still deciding whether to use solid mounts or stick with rubber, for a speed i would think that rubber would be the way to go for a smoother feel. i havent done much research yet on the ho/5speed swap. what is the reason for changing the booster? i tried looking for a template as to where to put the clutch pedal on the firewall, does anyone know where i can locate one or is it going to be a learn as i go deal?

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        #4
        Nice, that thing should move right along when your done. Nice car by the way, it looks cherry from what I can see.
        "Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
        1985 GMC 1500

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          #5
          it is for the most part, its about 99% rust free, 42k original miles but from sitting and neglect all those years the paint became oxidized a little bit and it has a few old person parking lot dings, nothing major, the dash is good except for the speaker area, coming apart, i'm going to get a dashmat anyway, the carpet, seats, and everything else is mint. the floor, frame, rockers, gas tank, is 110% solid, excellent car to make a project out of

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            #6
            I want that a/c machine so bad.
            2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
            2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
            2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
            1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

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              #7
              There is no routing wires better on these cars. Go get a bunch of wire loom and replace all the rotted factory stuff.

              You need the later booster because it's narrower, enabling the space for the clutch cable through the firewall. As for a template you need to make your own. Once you have your pedal assembly built install the quadrant and use a drop line to mark where the cable would meet the firewall from the channel of the quadrant.

              Definitely just stick to OEM style rubber motor mounts. It's unlikely you'll run enough torque to mess them up.

              Originally posted by Nick52284 View Post
              thanks, i plan on trying to clean up the engine bay while its apart, route wires better, paint, make covers for all the stupid vac lines and bird nest wiring, lol. i'm still deciding whether to use solid mounts or stick with rubber, for a speed i would think that rubber would be the way to go for a smoother feel. i havent done much research yet on the ho/5speed swap. what is the reason for changing the booster? i tried looking for a template as to where to put the clutch pedal on the firewall, does anyone know where i can locate one or is it going to be a learn as i go deal?
              2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
              1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
              1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

              Comment


                #8
                whats wrong with a clutch pedal ass. from a stang? i'm not a pro but i am capable of cutting and welding things together. i have some time, i don't expect to be done this year because of budget and time.

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                  #9
                  Mustang pedal assembly won't fit. You need the pedal and shaft tube from a Mustang assembly, though. Read the Panther T-5 Swap thread at the top of 5.0/5.8 Tech and there are pictures you can use to get a good idea of things.

                  Originally posted by Nick52284 View Post
                  whats wrong with a clutch pedal ass. from a stang? i'm not a pro but i am capable of cutting and welding things together. i have some time, i don't expect to be done this year because of budget and time.
                  2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
                  1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
                  1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    ahhh k, its been quite a while since i've been on the forums here, i forgot all about that thread. i'm really excited to finally get started on a project i wanted to do when i had my first grand marquis that got wrecked..... 4 years ago!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The stock motor mounts are actually designed in such a way that they almost can't break. Even if the rubber completely deteriorated, the two steel bracket pieces that make up the mount fit together in such a way that the motor won't tip up and dent the hood like some other cars do. It will clunk, but it won't move all that much. They should be replaced, but there isn't really any need for solid mounts or torque links or anything like that until you're making really serious power.
                      Last edited by gadget73; 04-18-2010, 07:36 PM.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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