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replacement parts - OEM vs everything else

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    replacement parts - OEM vs everything else

    Looking at RockAuto, you could get 2 of the Standard Motor Products T-series IACs for the price of the OEM Motorcraft part. The price disparity on a TPS is about the same I think.





    Could you share your thoughts on OEM vs everything else when it comes to replacement parts like that? Is there actually that much of a difference? Would an IAC made by Motorcraft last 2-3x as long as one made by a (I'm generalizing here, correct me if I'm wrong) chinaman?


    I've read about people buying new ones and getting a bad IAC or bad TPS, for example - Were these OEM or were they cheapies?
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

    #2
    Personally? I've never had a problem with cheap(er) parts, except Auto Zone Valucrap (Valucraft) alternators, cheap crank sensors for european cars.... they simply just don't last like the OEM Bosch ones, and generic GM ignition control modules.

    Oh, and never buy a generic TFI module, always buy those from Motorcraft.
    '97 Cadillac Catera - 3.0 DOHC V6, 75k
    Soon... Any '95+ Panther!
    CLICK ME! Parts For Sale, SUPER CHEAP!!!

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks!

      stupid question about listings on RA for said parts;

      STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # AC20T T-Series
      w/ A.T.; Fed.;
      huh? I understand most of the abbreviations etc in the listings but not A.T. I assume fed means federally compliant or somesuch other nonsense
      sigpic


      - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

      - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

      - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

      Comment


        #4
        A/T - Auto trans.
        M/T - Manual trans.

        Fed - Federal emissions (49 state)
        CA or Calif - Well... you know...
        '97 Cadillac Catera - 3.0 DOHC V6, 75k
        Soon... Any '95+ Panther!
        CLICK ME! Parts For Sale, SUPER CHEAP!!!

        Comment


          #5
          ah...that would've been obvious if we actually had the option of a manual transmission and I could see w/ A.T and w/ M.T. thanks again!
          sigpic


          - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

          - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

          - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

          Comment


            #6
            even motorcraft parts suck these days......buyer beware!

            1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
            2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
            1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
            1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
            2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
            1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

            please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

            Comment


              #7
              really? oh well, even cheap stuff is warrantied on RA
              sigpic


              - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

              - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

              - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

              Comment


                #8
                With electrical parts, you may also find that many of the cheaper parts are made by the same manufacturer as the OEM. Cherry switches for example in the chevy world, the standard Napa Echlin equivalent is identical, for a lot less money.

                Alex.

                Comment


                  #9
                  OEM parts are definitely not the same quality they used to be. At the dealership I work at we almost always try to use OEM when we process the used vehicles so that the customer should get a reliable used vehicle. Sadly we put a set of drums on a Chevy Truck and the AC Delco drums we ordered from the local Chevy garage were made in friggin China and were so badly out of round that it was sickening.
                  I had a 2007 Accord come in today and I had put new rear pads and rotors on it back in december and the damn rotors were rusting from the inside out and tore the shit out of the pads, the brand new rotors i went to install on it today were still sealed in plastic and they were freakin rusting WTF???
                  So yeah I don't even bother with OEM for my vehicles anymore screw it I just buy whats cheap and replace it when it fails.
                  Current stable:
                  1984 Ford LTD Crown Vic
                  1994 GMC Jimmy 4x4
                  1972 Volkswagen Camper Bus
                  2000 Ford Windstar

                  Comment


                    #10
                    its hit or miss. anymore you pull an aftermarket part out of a box and its got oem stamps on it. it depends on what you are working on. for the box cars i wouldnt have too many reservations going aftermarket on a lot of the stuff. once you get into working on newer stuff, some things pretty much require an oem part if you dont want a comeback. cats, maf sensors, air/fuel ratio sensors, etc are becoming more of an issue aftermarket.
                    1996 Mercury Grand Marquis - duals, PI cams, PI intake, J-Mod, MZT, BOC tune, 3.55s, 18in wheels
                    1965 Ford Falcon Ranchero - 5.0 HO T5 Fun Cruiser
                    http://www.supermotors.net/users/tmm313

                    Comment

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