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    manifold-block sealing

    I've heard different things:

    - use the little gasket "strips" that come w. the gasket set

    - use a big thick strip of rtv and nothing else

    - use the gaskets WITH rtv


    what the hell should I do?
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

    #2
    thick bead of RTV. let it sit for an hour before you install the manifold.
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    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

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      #3
      I was reading about this recently. Fel-Pro's MS-93334 comes with rubber end pieces that people seem to say are lots better than the cork ones, so I got myself one of those even though I'm carbruleted. Supposedly you're supposed to lightly oil the rubber bits before installing. This set was just $10 at Vatozone, making it possibly the cheapest set locally available, but it includes 302 end pieces only. I didn't successfully turn up a set containing rubber 351 end pieces, but I just remembered that I didn't try searching for one for '90s 351 pickups like the Lightning.

      Others say to set aside the normal Ultra Black AND pitch the end pieces, and get some special hard-setting stuff from Permatex called "Right Stuff", and use a 1/4" or so bead of that instead of the end gaskets. And of course, there are those who report success coating their cork end seals with Ultra Black. Obviously, with sealant, you need to make sure both mating surfaces are clean, clean, clean (I like to wipe stuff with lacquer thinner to make sure).


      An interesting tip I came across is that even if you're using bolts instead of studs on your intake (and get real, stud sets are expensive!), you should get some allthread and rig temporary studs to guide the manifold straight down, thereby reducing your chosen end seals' tendency to smear or squirm. One-piece rubber oilpan gaskets come with little plastic clippy studs that serve this purpose, holding the gasket nicely in place while you fumble with the pan.


      I'd mention to always use a dab of your favorite ordinary automotive RTV where the gaskets meet if using cork or rubber end seals, but you presumably know that.
      Last edited by 1987cp; 04-28-2011, 10:07 AM.
      2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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        #4
        depends on the type of gasket. If it's the cork ones I toss them and use a bead of rtv. If it's the nice rubber, I use the rubber gasket and the dabs of rtv on the ends like the instructions say.
        Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

        Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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          #5
          Originally posted by mrltd View Post
          depends on the type of gasket. If it's the cork ones I toss them and use a bead of rtv. If it's the nice rubber, I use the rubber gasket and the dabs of rtv on the ends like the instructions say.
          This. Never had a problem with this method yet...

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            #6
            Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
            An interesting tip I came across is that even if you're using bolts instead of studs on your intake (and get real, stud sets are expensive!), you should get some allthread and rig temporary studs to guide the manifold straight down, thereby reducing your chosen end seals' tendency to smear or squirm.
            This is why I like Felpro gaskets, they have little connector things (can't think of the right word) that sit the gaskets on the head gaskets. Making that problem go away.
            The felpro rubbers also conform to the place where they're supposed to be installed, in fact if I remember correctly, there's a guide hole for one of the end pieces in the block that pretty much puts it where it goes.
            Last edited by 86VickyLX; 04-28-2011, 01:35 PM.

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              #7
              Convenient. Didn't find any such guides in my intake-gasket kit, but it's easy enough to make some guides.
              2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                #8
                Originally posted by mrltd View Post
                depends on the type of gasket. If it's the cork ones I toss them and use a bead of rtv. If it's the nice rubber, I use the rubber gasket and the dabs of rtv on the ends like the instructions say.


                I will do this. I have had nothing but bad luck with cork gaskets thusfar....I'm sure they work okay for some folks, I just don't want anything to do with them.


                When I tear into it, I'll use rubber felpro gaskets.
                sigpic


                - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                Comment


                  #9
                  the cork chinawall gaskets suck on every vehicle I've ever seen them used on. GM finally gave up on them for their V8 motors. If you buy a GM intake gasket, its 2 manifold to head gaskets and a tube of RTV for the ends.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by mrltd View Post
                    depends on the type of gasket. If it's the cork ones I toss them and use a bead of rtv. If it's the nice rubber, I use the rubber gasket and the dabs of rtv on the ends like the instructions say.
                    +1

                    What I don't like is that regular RTV will eventually soften with exposure to oil and start to leak out. That Permatex Right Stuff holds up better but is expensive...and it is very strong so it can be a PITA to disassemble. If I use cork I glue the strips to the block with high tack and then put some more on the top...wait until it is good and tacky before you set the intake on or they can slide out. If you do use a bead of RTV make sure you get enough in there...but not too much that some of it squeezes inside and gunks up your engine. Years ago I didn't get quite enough in one spot and had a leak.

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                      #11
                      Hm, Gaskacinch or similar probably makes pretty good sense, especially since you'll be putting some on the gaskets themselves anyway.
                      2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                        #12
                        So, just to be clear to a schmoe like me, you put down a bead of RTV where ever the gasket would be?

                        Pete
                        Originally posted by gadget73
                        For other types of inquiry, more information is required. Please press 4 to speak to a representative who can help you with your question. This call may be monitored for quality assurance purposes.


                        2003 Grand Marquis Ultimate, the "Stealth Bomber": http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...-Grand-Marquis
                        1991 S-10, 'Bulldog', 2.5l 5 speed: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...375#post698375
                        1985 Town Car, 'Faded Glory', gone but not forgotten. 84/87/91/97 MGMs too.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          To make it clear to a schmoe like you, there are various options depending on how you choose to do it.

                          The three options I like best at this point would be:

                          - "Right Stuff" instead of end seals
                          - Cork end seals with Gaskacinch
                          - Rubber end seals, lightly oiled
                          2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Thanks.

                            And I've achieved official schmoedom! I'll have to go celebrate, get schnackered

                            Pete
                            Originally posted by gadget73
                            For other types of inquiry, more information is required. Please press 4 to speak to a representative who can help you with your question. This call may be monitored for quality assurance purposes.


                            2003 Grand Marquis Ultimate, the "Stealth Bomber": http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...-Grand-Marquis
                            1991 S-10, 'Bulldog', 2.5l 5 speed: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...375#post698375
                            1985 Town Car, 'Faded Glory', gone but not forgotten. 84/87/91/97 MGMs too.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Meh, I still suspect I've got you beat in schmoedom. I'm really, really good at it! :banana:
                              2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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