Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Throttle body bypass - more power plus...

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Throttle body bypass - more power plus...

    Does anyone do a TB bypass on these cars. It's a pretty easy thing and commonly done w/GM b-bodies, plus, it helps them make a little more power (i.e. less heat in the TB, more cool air induction). It would eliminate those two pesky coolant hoses (that go to the pits of hell) too, that you have to contend with when doing anything to the intake (upper). I honestly can't see where they end up, but looks like you could put plugs in the intake?
    95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
    96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
    77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
    98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
    90 Grand Marquis, stock

    #2
    Yep.
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

    Comment


      #3
      Yes. Many people do it.

      Comment


        #4
        Some have said that it is their to prevent the throttle body icing up in colder climates. Others have said other things. Nobody really knows why it's there.



        I don't know if it does anything negative to the performance of our cars...Chebbies might be designed differently, I don't know anything about them.


        I just ran a small hose between the in/out on the EGR spacer itself and a hose between the in/out ports behind it
        sigpic


        - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

        - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

        - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

        Comment


          #5
          I did some testing a while back with my car, and I'd really love for someone else to try it to back up my findings. I took a drive with the coolant hoses hooked up, went like 15 miles on the highway and checked the voltage at the IAT sensor to find out how hot the air was in the lower intake. I then unhooked the lines and drove back and re-checked my readings. I found the air was about 20 degrees cooler with the lines unhooked. Never did any more in-depth testing and I never bothered to try it again to see if it was repeatable but it would be interesting.

          One end of the line goes to a fitting screwed into the lower intake. The other end goes to a port on the metal pipe under the upper intake. Can't really plug that one easily unless you cut the tit off and braze it shut.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment


            #6
            I bypassed it on my car. warmer climate here... not worried about icing... even in the winter. I didn't do any tests like Gadget... but... it didn't make any real difference other than the peace of mind that comes with knowing that coolant can NOT get into the engine that way any more. I didn't seal the tits... I just ran the hose from the heater pipe to the spacer down to the tit on the upper intake.

            Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
            rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
            Originally posted by gadget73
            ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
            Originally posted by dmccaig
            Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

            Comment


              #7
              looks like you could even pull that whole heater tube piece out of the intake manifold and plug holes? I live in eastern NC and we don't get a lot of cold weather (i.e. sub 20 degrees F). Thinking seriously about it. But if you pull that tube, I think the EEC-IV coolant temp sensor might be associated with it, maybe on the tube itself?
              95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
              96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
              77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
              98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
              90 Grand Marquis, stock

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by alchemist View Post
                looks like you could even pull that whole heater tube piece out of the intake manifold and plug holes? I live in eastern NC and we don't get a lot of cold weather (i.e. sub 20 degrees F). Thinking seriously about it. But if you pull that tube, I think the EEC-IV coolant temp sensor might be associated with it, maybe on the tube itself?
                Run the hose from the pipe, to the fitting on the other side of the manifold.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                  I did some testing a while back with my car, and I'd really love for someone else to try it to back up my findings. I took a drive with the coolant hoses hooked up, went like 15 miles on the highway and checked the voltage at the IAT sensor to find out how hot the air was in the lower intake. I then unhooked the lines and drove back and re-checked my readings. I found the air was about 20 degrees cooler with the lines unhooked. Never did any more in-depth testing and I never bothered to try it again to see if it was repeatable but it would be interesting.

                  One end of the line goes to a fitting screwed into the lower intake. The other end goes to a port on the metal pipe under the upper intake. Can't really plug that one easily unless you cut the tit off and braze it shut.


                  I'd like to see the results but have no real way of testing on-the-move. Hope someone else does it too
                  sigpic


                  - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                  - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                  - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I went to a machine shop and had them take a thick piece of aluminum and machine out the holes to replace it. I have seen no difference in anything. And it runs just fine in the winter sub freezing.

                    See here:
                    Store your photos and videos online with secure storage from Photobucket. Available on iOS, Android and desktop. Securely backup your memories and sign up today!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Holy crap, how much did that cost? And did you use your throttle bracket from your Towny?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Yup I used the stock throttle bracket. I had to align it and make the marks once I got it on the car. Drilled and tapped the two holes to mount the bracket. I had to shim the bracket out a tad with some washers to get the correct amount of movement in the cables. But it is a fine piece. Would look good polished huh?
                        Simple and it just bolted right on.
                        It cost less than $100 all total. He had the piece of aluminum layin around scrap. Just had to do the big hole and 4 bolt holes, then I did the bracket holes. I gave him a new gasket from a 2001 5.0 Explorer to use as a template.

                        I couldn't figure out how to post the pic on here since I have it on a photobucket acct and not on my computer so I had to post a link. Sorry.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          i bypassed it because i bored out my spacer to 67mm for the tb. didn't notice a power difference, it gets to -25 C here and no icing up. theres plenty of heat under the hood to keep it warm. nice to get some more hoses out of the way. then i went on to delete the egr for my dyno tune and that felt like a few more horsies... maybe 5 and ran a little smoother. all had no effect on gas consumption and i picked up 15hp after the dyno tune and these mods.
                          Finally have an on the books porting/custom fab business!
                          HO bottom end,GT40Ps,cut/welded/ported upper+lower GT40 intakes,Comp XE258 cam,MS3X megasquirt computer,8 LS2 coils,2 dry systems + a 3rd wet,3 core rad w fans..1100hp Lentech WR AOD,custom 4" aluminum/moly Dshaft,custom rear/back half chassis adjustable 4link,wilwood 4 piston,moser 9" axles,locker, M/T 30x12's,4 staged fuel pumps,100lbs sound insulation,power/remote everything,2000W sound.4480lbs. 4.5s 0-60,12.8 1/4

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by 1990LTD View Post
                            I'd like to see the results but have no real way of testing on-the-move. Hope someone else does it too

                            I pulled over and stuck a voltmeter on the sensor leads. Not really anything fancy. I have no equipment to do on the move testing, though I guess I could get fancy and run long leads from the sensor into the car with the voltmeter hooked up. I really didn't care enough to go to the trouble though.


                            When I first did the HO swap, I hooked those coolant lines up. It was pissing coolant into the throttle body, and at first I thought I had a blown head gasket. First run of the motor and all I see is steam and I was smelling coolant out of the exhaust. Shut the motor off and I saw it spraying around the throttle body. it got unhooked and stayed that way for years. I only hooked it up briefly to see what would happen at the IAT. Its been unhooked since. Car runs just fine winter and summer, and I do have working EGR. I've been told the coolant is required to keep the EGR spacer from melting. Mine seems to be just fine. I've had it off several times over the years and have yet to see any indications of damage.
                            Last edited by gadget73; 10-10-2011, 05:28 PM.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X