Scared the hell outta me. Car has never run this badly. According to my research, I have all the symptoms of a bad FPR (hard start, very rough idle,stalling, smoky). Would I get any codes for this? Im waiting for a new FPR to arrive, just trying to get more info on the subject from you pros out there. Thanks in advance!
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no codes will happen for an FPR. Check for crap vacuum lines as well. replace any that are flaky, cracked, or rock hard.
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rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73Originally posted by dmccaig -
Ditto slymer's comment. a 3/8" vacuum leak is the difference between running perfectly and belching black smoke as the idle sputters up and down. If it's bad enough you can listen for a sucking sound. The throttle body cleaner trick works too.Comment
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Bad MAP sensor would be my guess, or a bad vacuum line to the MAP sensor. The FPR doesn't break that often. The MAP doesn't either for that matter but the rubber hoses are all shot at this point in time.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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Thanks for the advice guys. Forgot to mention it's a 85 with cfi. I notice that on a cold start, it will start up ok with only very minor sputter at first. I let it idle for over 10 min without a problem. Cut it off and tried to restart, it was very hard. Even with throttle to floor, I couldnt keep it running. An hour later, I keep it from stalling, and after belching tons of black smoke it smoothed out. It's been like this for a few days. Started out it stalled at a red light without warning(very rare). Then again a couple days later. Then the next day I got the very hard start with black smoke. I got some koeo codes: 51,83 and continuous 14,18,51. I just swapped my ECT sensor a few months back, so I think 51 showed because engine wasnt warmed up. I gonna swap out the EGR solenoid (83) as soon as I pinpoint this problem. I looked at the MAP sensor connector and lines, all seem ok. I even followed the vacuum line to a tree behind EGR valve, everything looked ok. Would a bad TFI module make it run like this?Comment
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51 means the sensor is reading very high temperature. If it wasn't warmed up, you'd get a 21 most likely. 51 is what you'd see for a totally shot sensor, or a short in the wiring to the 5v reference signal.
14 is a problem with the ignition module, pickup, or the wiring to/from it.
18 is a problem with the ignition module, the wiring, or the SPOUT connector is unplugged
The MAP sensor should connect directly to the intake manifold, not the vac tree.
TFI and/or the pickup is a fair guess based on the codes. Worth swapping both.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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Just replaced the FPR. Problem still present. If its a bad TFI module or pickup, wouldnt codes show up first instead of continuous?Comment
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CM codes just store faults that have been present while driving. KOEO tests mostly catch dead sensors or broken wires. It couldn't find any ignition related codes since the ignition system isn't running at that point. The self-diagnostics on these are a little limited anyway, and the codes don't always point clearly to the problem, or to the correct problem. Does a KOER test tell you anything? How many miles on it, and have you ever replaced the timing chain? They are usually well shot by 100k miles and when it jumps it makes things go very funny.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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A worn out chain, especially one that has jumped should be a continous problem....sounds like the problem started intermittently. I'm pretty confident it's the TFI module/pickup...when mine went, the car fired up cold just fine and after it started to get up to temp it would run crappy under a load in OD...and the hotter under-hood temps got, the worse the problem got...it would get to the point where anything other than just barely maintaining 55mph(with 3.73 gears, approx. 1700rpm) would cause it to sputter and buck and feel like it was going to die. Let it cool for an hour or so and things seemed fine again until it got up to temp...then one day I limped it to a buddy's house, shut it off and that was all she wrote, had to replace the TFI module. Since then(last year), completely at random, 3 times it either didn't start or died while driving...and I found a bad connection. The one time it died while driving it started feeling like the TFI module was going out again, but this time as I feathered the throttle it started back-firing hard out of the exhaust like the timing was super-retarded then died...got out, wiggled wire harness problem solved.
Good luck,
Don'85 CV coupe- 351W, T5-Z, FAST Ez-Efi, shorty headers, 2.5" duals with knock off flowmasters, 2.5" Impala tails, seriously worked GT-40 irons, Comp 265DEH cam, 1.7rr's, Mallory HyFire 6A, Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm wires, 75mm t/b, 3G alt swap, 140mph PI speedo, PI rear sway bar, '00 PI booster/MC, 95-97 front spindles, '99 front hub bearings/brakes, '92-'94 front upper control arms/ball-joints, 3.73's with rebuilt traction-lok, '09 PI rear disc swap, '96 Mustang GT wheels with 235/55R17's.Comment
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Thanks for all the info guys. Ill keep you updated on progress.Comment
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Got a new TFI module and Ignition coil... will install this weekend. Hopefully these work.Comment
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Been about a month, but I finally installed new parts on the Mercury. New TFI module and Ignition coil, still same problem. However I did notice a vacuum line that wasn't plugged in. I put my finger on it and could notice a change in pressure. Im gonna break down and take her to a shop tomorrow to get my vacuum lines fixed up.Comment
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I think that may be the one to the flapper dingus in the exhaust pipe on the driver's side.
Tell them to replace all of the rubber lines, or just do it yourself. Its really not very hard, just a matter of buying bulk hose and replacing it one piece at a time. If you can put a coil on, you can change vacuum lines.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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So I took it to the shop and got all my vac lines replaced and a good tune up. After all that, they wanted to change the ignition control module again ( i had already done that). So finally it was diagnosed as a bad computer (ECM). It kinda makes sense though, and I'm pretty sure its time to be replaced. I think I'm gonna try to swap it out myself, I just wanted to get your opinion's first. The car still runs rough, but not nearly as bad as before the tune-up. However there is clearly something wrong with starting up, stalling and overall lack of power. Does this sound like symptoms of a bad ECM? Is swapping out the ECM harder than i am thinking? Thanks in advance guys!Comment
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Could be a distributor issue or bad TFI, if you've gone through everything else. Did they use a Ford TFI? Some of the aftermarket ones suck!
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