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autolites used to be good, havent used them since they are made in china, i had a few sets with at least one dead plug so stopped using them.......i only use motorcraft copper now on 5.0's
change the pcv screen, no amount of cleaning will help them, hint, use a 4" drywall screw to remove the old one.
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
There is one other thing asuming all else is good. That side of the engine has a water connection to the EGR spacer (to cool the EGR valve). Often I have seen plugs 7 and 8 to be a bit different than the rest. Long ago in the carb days I learned that manifolds with a rear crossover adding a bleeder line from the rear crossover to the front crossover made jetting the carb square. By square back then it was common to stager jet a carb to achieve proper plug coloring.
Square jetting might be like 68 right front 70 left front, and 76 right rear 78 left rear. Manifolds were designed to address this by rotating the the carb flange a bit. Original Torker intakes were one of the first.
Manifolds with a crossover in the rear seemed to require a smaller difference in the staggering between left and right than intakes without a rear crossover. I started to drill and tap manifolds without crossovers in the rear and run lines to the front crossover. It ended the need for stagger jetting plugs looked nore even across the board. Began to do it on other engines becides Fords.
I have also done it to EFI SBFs there is a plug on the opposite side of the EFI lower. I tee the left and right bank togeather and run the line into the EGR spacer. This seemed to help in the same way. Later while working with Intermotive on a project for Ford (a dual runner intake for a 2.3 Ranger I designed was on thier dyno) I saw they were running such lines on some builds. Questioned them about it they had come up with the same conclusions.
Could be cross fire issue with #7 plug. Did you ever correct for that issue? Platum plugs in older vehicles not always a good idea. The tips burn hotter because of the material and often cause issues.
"To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"
-1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
-1986 Honda Magna 700cc
-1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
-2011 Subaru Outback
Cylinders 7 and 8 fire one after the other so the wires should be separated by at least a full wire width between at all points. (run 6 between them from the dizzy is the usual fix).
platinum plugs in older vehicles? it depends, but most platinum plugs are still copper core anyway.
i've had good luck with the autolite double platinums.
Give a man a fish and he will be fed for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will promptly forget that he once did not know, and proceed to call anyone who asks, a n00b and flame them on the boards for being stupid.
Give a man a fish and he will be fed for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will promptly forget that he once did not know, and proceed to call anyone who asks, a n00b and flame them on the boards for being stupid.
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