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    aftermarket fuel tanks

    Just a few weeks ago I installed a replacement fuel tank in my box wagon. I like to go 110% and not redo anything ever, so when I dropped the tank to fix my level sensor, what the hell, I did the pump and the entire tank as well. It was rusty enough to justify anyway.

    The only part I could not obtain was the oversized grommet for where the filler neck goes into the tank, but, the original was not dryrotted. I popped it into the new tank.

    I'd had some suspicions from faint whiffs of fuel (my sense of smell is below average, so if I smell fuel, there's a real leak), and immediately after filling the tank with 16.3 gallons, noticed gas dripping under the car.

    I drove over to a shop for a quick look-see on their lift, and it's coming out all around that grommet. Not, thank goodness, at the level sensor or the pump, the latter of which is under pressure and a bit more work to get at! ...I'd also had some fears about the condition of the bracket.

    Some brief research showed that fuel tanks have internal baffles, and the pumps rely on built up fume pressure to tell them when to shut off. A different tank design not quite to spec, or of course a badly calibrated pump, can lead to overfilling. Some people had real problems with their aftermarket tanks, and it seems that I do, too.
    I don't think the fuel should even be getting to that grommet, and I can't imagine that even brand new 20 years ago, that filler tube grommet was ever a hermetic seal, it's not designed to be.

    Not a biggie. A relief, actually. Explains a lot of 13mpg last tank, and all I have to do is put in 12-14 gallons next time the low fuel light triggers, not 16.3g.
    Just a forewarning to others who replace their tanks.
    Mine was a dorman. It was supposed to be spectra, but they misdelivered. dorman got good reviews too though-- I won't stress about it.

    #2
    Mine stock tank leaks at the grommet also, I have an issue with pressure buildup in the tank. And the autocorssing causes a little bit of fuel slosh.
    Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

    Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

    Comment


      #3
      The tank does indeed fill above that grommet. At least on my Aeros. When I replaced the filler neck on the Town Car, I was between 1/2 and 3/4 full on the gage, so I figured I was safe to go ahead and do the job. Got the old neck off, old grommet, and the fuel level was actually maybe 1/4 of an inch below the bottom of the opening. I wasn't expecting it to still be that full. Digi-Dash was claiming I had 14 gallons left in my 20 gallon tank.

      My Town Car has an aftermarket tank installed by the previous owner, and it has no baffles in it. The stock OEM tank in my '96 Merc does (I actually swapped the filler neck between the 2 since the Merc is wrecked and had a not leaky filler neck). The only real difference I notice is that you can feel the fuel sloshing in the tank more after taking a corner quickly.

      How different is the tank grommet on a box than an Aero? The one on my buddy's '91 wagon looks pretty much the same to me. Don't think I ever paid attention to the '89 he had before it tho.

      Side note: Where did you get the fuel level sender for your wagon? My buddy's '91 needs one, but from what I've gathered the wagon one is different to the one on the sedans, and i can only find the sedan part.
      -Steve

      2006 Audi A6 S-Line FWD ~132k miles, stock.
      1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS HPP ~102k miles, slowly acquiring modifications.
      1997 Lincoln Town Car Cartier ~145k miles, Ported Plenum, Gutted Airbox, Mechanical Fan Delete, Contour E-fan Retrofit, Dual exhaust, Cats ran away, KYB Gas-A-Justs, P71 front sway bar, air ride reinstalled, Blinker Mod, Projector headlight retrofit, Caddy 4-note horn retrofit, Wood rim steering wheel, rustbelt diet plan..
      1996 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 117,485mi. R.I.P. 7/14/12

      Comment


        #4
        you're in luck!! I bought 2 of the wagon ones, for 90-91. -89 is different. I looked for 2 years and snagged two of them when someone finally had, I think, just 3 in stock (nos) Which now that I think of it, was a silly and exuberant response to the difficulty in finding it-- I won't have this car for another 20 years and will never need my spare, I don't think. I want the $150 I paid for it, though; parts place had me by the balls but no one else had one in 2 years, so I bought 2. PM me if you need my spare, it's waiting in my attic now.
        Depending on your symptom, you might only need the float, which is a $15 part and still available. I needed the variable resistor of the main sending unit, myself, however. It had dead spots.

        The dorman part must have some baffles, because it does shut off automatically and it shows just past full at that point, consistently.

        Interesting-- so it DOES actually go over that grommet level? The filler neck is not rusty-- but it leaks from the grommet. I can pull the filler neck without dropping the tank no problem, so, if I can fix this, tell me how. Where can I get the grommet? And, since it is just a rubber donut, no locking rings like you have on the level sender or on the pump, what kind of fuel-proof sealers can I use? I want to fix this guys: I got 13mpg last tank because it just drips out.

        thanks!
        -Bernard
        Last edited by BerniniCaCO3; 10-01-2012, 02:09 AM.

        Comment


          #5
          pressure would build up because of a clogged vapor canister maybe? how would you even know?
          I DO know that my fuel level consistently rises after about 5-8minutes of driving, almost as if the fuel expands after heating up, unless that's just a condition of the "anti-slosh" module the 90+ models had: just an electrical voltage damper to prevent the needle from swinging back and forth with every bump or hill. It'll change a quarter of a tank: it might be 3/4 full on startup, and 4/4 after 5 min: or on empty with the warning lamp, and 1/4 full no warning lamp after 5min driving.

          Comment


            #6
            It's obviously slightly different equipment but I've found my vic and several not-brand-new non-panthers tend to show higher after a few minutes as the needle rises. It's like when you turn it on, the first 80% of the sweep to indicating accurately happens instantly, and the rest takes a couple minutes.

            85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
            160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
            waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

            06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

            Comment


              #7
              grommet same on the aero panthers........iirc they come in a pack of two, i have the number here for the other seal if you need it, the one that seals the filler neck to the quarter panel. cant find the package for the other one.......the filler neck quarter seal is f4ZZ-9008-A

              1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
              2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
              1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
              1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
              2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
              1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

              please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

              Comment


                #8
                what's the quarter seal?

                hmm, oddly, seems the aftermarket just doesn't have it. I'd assumed that the dealer had nothing for my car, but, it seems they do have that filler neck to tank grommet/seal/donut, they want $28, but I've lost more than that in gas so, it's been ordered from the dealer. Ford part # is 1e1az9072b, a google search finds no one else carrying it though, and napa, advance, and autozone aren't finding aftermarket corollaries. $28 it is.

                Luckily, this should be an easy install. Any advice? Can I silicone the seal to make it slide easier (so there won't be any scarring)? AND/or, are there ANY rubbers that are fuel-proof, to once and for all permanently seal this?

                thanks!
                -Bernard

                Comment


                  #9
                  quarter-panel seal... the seal up on the body near the fuel door.

                  Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                  rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                  Originally posted by gadget73
                  ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                  Originally posted by dmccaig
                  Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Replaced both seals on my '95 GM as the last owners, in their infinite wisdom, decided to drill through the fuel tank to mount an amp for their stereo! They then put an air freshener hanging from the trunk hinge to cover up the fuck up! Used Ford seals with no further issues as the original one at the fuel tank leaked after replacement.


                    "Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob

                    "NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)

                    "Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"

                    Comment


                      #11
                      use some dielectric grease to help the seal go in better

                      1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                      2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                      1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                      1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                      2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                      1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                      please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        These do not have a vapor pressure sensor in the tank, and the pump shuts off only when you turn the key off. Its not a demand pump, it runs constantly. Excess pressure buildup is probably some fault with your evap system, either the lines are clogged or the solenoid does not work. There is a fitting at the top of the tank where that hose hooks up. Its more or less like a PCV valve in that its a one-way valve with a metal thing inside a plastic body. If that metal bit is gummed up, it won't allow the vapor system to work properly and you'll have this problem. Ditto if the line is pinched shut or something.

                        Also, I don't think the stock tanks are baffled on these anyway. Maybe the wagons are, but the sedans are not. I've only ever seen the inside of one wagon tank, and I think it was not original anyway. It did not have any baffle plates though.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment


                          #13
                          no baffles that i am aware of

                          1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                          2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                          1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                          1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                          2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                          1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                          please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by BigMerc96 View Post
                            and i can only find the sedan part.
                            WHERE

                            I have never found one for my '88 Town Car. It'd be so great to have another functioning gauge in my dash. I'm finding them back to 1990... anyone know if the resistance range is the same as an '88?
                            Last edited by CheeseSteakJim; 10-01-2012, 05:40 PM.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              probably not. 1990 was all digital as far as I know. Also I think starting 1990 it was a single hole in the tank for the pump and sender, not separate like the 89- cars used.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                              Comment

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