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PCV valve and grommet . . uh, shouldn't they be snug?

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    #1

    PCV valve and grommet . . uh, shouldn't they be snug?

    Ok, replaced the PCV valve, grommet, and screen. I think the screen was the original - though I couldn't see any numbers on it. PITA to remove.

    However, new or old, shouldn't there be some snugness between the grommet and the intake, as well as some snugness between the PCV valve itself and the grommet. Whether I used the new grommet or the old one, it seems like they come out VERY easily. It's not loose or anything, but there's really no snugness at all, I can pull out the PCV valve from the grommet, or the grommet from the intake, with almost no effort.

    At least, no effort once I get my fingers crammed into the right place....

    Should it be like that? Car seems to run fine, but when I pulled the hose and PCV out of the intake with the car idling, it didn't seem to affect anything at all anyway, so I wasn't sure...
    1987 Ford LTD Crown Victoria 2-door Coupe - perpetually "sort of" for sale...
    Black with Red cloth (velour?) interior.
    Purchased on 10/10/2008, with only 70,386 original miles, and only ONE previous owner.
    Reader's Ride post, First pic with "new" rims, Other pics with "new" rims
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    #2
    there should be a little resistance... but not much. pulling the PCV out won't affect running... that just allows it to puke oil when you're moving.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

    Originally posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

    Originally posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

    Comment

      #3
      All the aftermarket ones I try fit like poo. I just put some RTV around them and have never had an issue.
      2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
      2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
      2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
      1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

      Comment

        #4
        If you have large heat shrink tubing, put some of that around the PCV valve to fatten it up. failing that, a couple turns of electrical tape will do the job too.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by slymer View Post
          there should be a little resistance... but not much. pulling the PCV out won't affect running... that just allows it to puke oil when you're moving.
          If it is loose, though, well, doesn't the suction through the PCV come via manifold vacuum? So, if it's not really snug (or if it's pulled out), isn't this effectively causing a vacuum leak?
          1987 Ford LTD Crown Victoria 2-door Coupe - perpetually "sort of" for sale...
          Black with Red cloth (velour?) interior.
          Purchased on 10/10/2008, with only 70,386 original miles, and only ONE previous owner.
          Reader's Ride post, First pic with "new" rims, Other pics with "new" rims

          Comment

            #6
            The vacuum is applied to the pcv itself. As long as the valve has a snug fit to the hose there will be no leak. Well any more than is supposed to be there as the pcv valve is really a controlled leak sucking nasty fumes from the crankcase.

            The loose fit into the grommet reduces the polluted air pulled from the crankcase.
            03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
            02 SL500 Silver Arrow
            08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
            12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by jaywish View Post
              As long as the valve has a snug fit to the hose there will be no leak. Well any more than is supposed to be there as the pcv valve is really a controlled leak
              Ah, got it, that does clarify!
              1987 Ford LTD Crown Victoria 2-door Coupe - perpetually "sort of" for sale...
              Black with Red cloth (velour?) interior.
              Purchased on 10/10/2008, with only 70,386 original miles, and only ONE previous owner.
              Reader's Ride post, First pic with "new" rims, Other pics with "new" rims

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by pantera77 View Post
                All the aftermarket ones I try fit like poo. I just put some RTV around them and have never had an issue.
                Same here...cheap made in China lower intake may have contributed to my issue a little also...goo'ed some grey RTV on the grommet and installed it with the PCV valve in the grommet and the PCV valve has a really nice snug fit.
                '85 CV coupe- 351W, T5-Z, FAST Ez-Efi, shorty headers, 2.5" duals with knock off flowmasters, 2.5" Impala tails, seriously worked GT-40 irons, Comp 265DEH cam, 1.7rr's, Mallory HyFire 6A, Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm wires, 75mm t/b, 3G alt swap, 140mph PI speedo, PI rear sway bar, '00 PI booster/MC, 95-97 front spindles, '99 front hub bearings/brakes, '92-'94 front upper control arms/ball-joints, 3.73's with rebuilt traction-lok, '09 PI rear disc swap, '96 Mustang GT wheels with 235/55R17's.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Is the PCV really difficult to get to if the intake is still on? I have the parts, just want to know how many knuckles ill be missing after.


                  1990 Colony Park, with HO swap.

                  Previously:
                  1990 Lincoln Town Car Cartier.
                  88 CVLX
                  01 Marquis

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Not really hard, just the screen likes to stick in there sometimes.
                    2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                    2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                    2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                    1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Just contort yourself to fit in there haha. The gromment and valve come out pretty easily, the filter is what sucks. I saw this on someone elses post so I can't take credit for the idea, but take a power drill, get an extension with a phillips, and screw a woodscrew into the filter. Then grab some needlenose or whatever reaches and yank it out.
                      Current cars:
                      1989 Crown Victoria LTD wagon, 94,872 miles
                      1990 Volvo 240 DL 318,513 miles
                      I've tried foreign cars but I always come back to Ford in the end.

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