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crank bolt is REALLY stuck on

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    #16
    Are you reffering to the bolt that hold the balancer on? If you are I ran into a similar problem wiht a Chebby 454. After using a 8' (Ues 8 FOOT) long steel pipe over my 1/2" ratchet, it broke loose, and c ame out. Then I hit the next problem. The balancer was frozen to the dame crank! Took a damn 30 ton press to get the thing off. And it destroyed the balancer. Had to junk everything and get new ones!! :drug:
    2008 Mercury Grand Marquis GS Bone Stock

    The modern definition of "racist" is "someone who is arguing with a Liberal".--updated Peter Brimelow quote.

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      #17
      YEAH hahah my balancer is actually one with my crank via rust. I just can't get the thing off with the motor in the bay, which is what I'm doing. I'm just going to run the stock cam with some 1.72 Roller rockers and smaller injectors, until i get better tools. The engine is gonna be fine for another 75K without the timing chain needing work.
      1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

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        #18
        hey is the crank bolt reverse thread??
        1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

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          #19
          the crank bolt is the std right hand thread........buy or rent an electric 1/2" impact if you do not have an air compressor/air tools............it's really not that hard........once the crank bolt is out you need to buy or rent a harmonic balancer puller............that bolt should come out with the elec impact, i remove them with my snap on 3/8" impact, that produces around 200 ft lbs torque.......i think the electric ones are 250+
          heres a link to the tools u need



          1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
          2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
          1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
          1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
          2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
          1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

          please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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            #20
            no
            Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

            Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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              #21
              ok thanks a lot guys!
              1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

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                #22
                This way, you can install the FMS timing chain, and advance your cam 4 degrees, for some REAL power!
                1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
                Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

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                  #23
                  Fill a cylinder with rags...........bolt your head back on without rocker arms..........put a big ass breaker bar on the deep well socket or short socket with extension on your crank bolt................exert force and remove your bolt......................
                  Impacts...............we don't need no stinkin' impacts...............

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                    #24
                    Never thought of that. Hell thats a good idea!
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                      #25
                      That is a great idea, good one Mercracer!

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by Mercracer
                        Fill a cylinder with rags...........bolt your head back on without rocker arms..........put a big ass breaker bar on the deep well socket or short socket with extension on your crank bolt................exert force and remove your bolt......................
                        Impacts...............we don't need no stinkin' impacts...............
                        If the motor is out of the car, pull the pan and put a block of wood between the crank throw and the block. That will keep the crank from spinning.

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