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Also is there a difference between the smog pumps between the years? Sounds stupid but Ive thought about adding the smog pump back to keep my cats from clogging and I have one from my old 85. Or what about from a mustang? Otherwise Ill probably just skip it.
Different smog pumps have different flow ratings depending on application but they are most all physically interchangeable.
I’ve run without a smog pump on my 88 with original cats for the last 60K and it’s been a happy camper. Smells a bit like burnt rotten 100 octane gas when warming up, and sulfur after warm but haven’t had an flow problems.
1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings
Well thats good to know. I bought an all new stock exhaust system for this car so Id hate for the cats to fail prematurely. Funny, this is the only car Ive ever bought cats for. Ive always owned mustangs and one of the first things you do is toss them lol.
So I applied vacuum to the egr valve itself and the engine stumbled and it held vacuum so it would seem the egr valve is fine. Now when I connected my gauge to the green vacuum line that feeds the egr valve I get nothing when I snap the throttle. I tried it multiple times and it did the same thing. It should show 2-5 inches of vacuum. Ill get another egr solenoid to test.
Now heres when things get weird. So I went to open the throttle plate under the hood and as soon as I touched the cruise control cable the engine stumbled. I tried multiple times with the same result. I even took a video of this. I dont fully understand how cruise control works on our cars but I find it hard to believe that touching the linkage would have any effect on idle. I suspect that it works by monitoring where the throttle is and creating a controlled vacuum leak to match rpms of where it would be if I was pressing the gas, but I could be way off. That would account for why it has an effect on idle. Ill upload the video to youtube in a min.
you typically won't get any vacuum to the EGR unless you go for a drive. Try unhooking the green line at the EGR regulator and applying vacuum. If it doesn't hold, you've got leaks. The red line should also have manifold vacuum at the EGR reg. if you have vacuum and the lines don't leak, the EGR regulator is not working. You might be able to pop the "hat" off the end, clean the remains of the foam filter out, and shoot some wd40 through the regulator to get it working again. I had a sticky one and that fixed it.
The cruise should have nothing to do with anything. Any chance the wiring to the IAC is damaged and moving the cruise cable is actually jostling the damaged wire around? I can't think of anything else that makes sense.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
It has vacuum at the red line but not the green line. The workshop manual states to test that way thats why I tested it by snapping the throttle open. I could always put it in self test mode and test for vacuum again to verify.
No I tried wiggling the iac wiring too but that had no effect.
A quick google search showed a couple people had the same issues I have and it turned out to be the cruise control servo. I guess its worth a shot if I can get a good used one for cheap.
Just tested it and yes its getting 2 inches of vacuum while in self test mode but only for a split second.
Now heres one for the record books, no its not the cruise control servo as I removed that from the throttle linkage to isolate the issue and what I noticed is there is a constant electrical current running through the throttle linkage. When you move the linkage you can actually see the spark. Ill have to get a video later, Ive never seen anything like it. With that said it sounds like there is a ground issue somewhere.
what I mean is to connect your vacuum pump to the green line at the EGR regulator end and see if it will hold vacuum. I suspect you'll find it does not, and thats why the code 33 comes up. If the valve is good, usually when it doesn't work its a leak in the line between the valve and the reg, or the reg is shot.
there should be nothing live at the throttle body. Check the cable from battery - to engine, and the ground strap that should be at the tail of the trans to the body.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
there has to be connection from the engine to body too. Thats the strap at the trans end. Just connecting to the battery won't give good ground to the rest of the stuff in the car. A battery to body cable will help but the engine, battery, and body all need to be well connected otherwise you get goofy stuff happening.
also worth checking, there is an orange wire that is supposed to connect to a bolt at the rear of the lower intake. Thats the engine block sensor ground wire to the ECM. It often breaks off, so see if there is a wire back there that doesn't connect to anything. It comes out of the oxygen sensor wiring harness.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Ill take a look. I dont remember seeing either of those that you mentioned. Both, the o2 sensor harness and salt and pepper shakers, I got from a fox mustang. Its pinned the same but maybe that could be the issue.
Dumb thought, but is there excessive play in the throttle plate shaft?
My Cars:
-1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
-1979 Ford LTD Landau (38K Miles) - New Cruiser -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
-1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
-1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner
You have a old car that I suspect has more than one problem, First thing I would do is recheck all the basics.
First and foremost I would check is the amount of slop in the timing chain, turn the engine over by hand until your engine is at #1 TDC of the compression stroke confirmed with a screw driver on the top of the piston and make sure the timing marks line up, with the distributor cap off rotate the engine backwards slowly until you just see the rotor button start to move then stop rotating the engine. The amount of slop you have in the chain and gears will show on the timing marks. I think anything over 5 degrees slop would suggest a new chain and gear set is in order
You could also test this with a timing light and the spout connector disconnected if the timing mark is bouncing around a lot it would be worth it to do the above manual test method.
If the timing chain is good I would do a complete compression test on all the cylinders.
If the compression and timing chain is good I would do a power balance test on each cylinder at idle and off idle to see if any one or more cylinder is out performing another either from leaking injectors or bad parts in the ignition system or vacuum leaks that could effect the suspect cylinders .
I will say in the past I have found many egr valves that would get a week spring allowing them to open before it was supposed to, if this is combined with someone messing around with a throttle stop screw to ( raise the idle to compensate for other issues ) it could lead to chasing your tail.
I watched the video you posted on line and it was very hard to determine anything form it other than it seems to have a dead miss which is one reason I suggested to check the timing chain and compression then a power balance test.
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