I checked again and the car will not even think about starting with the ECT unplugged. I don't know which is the choke so I didn't try wiring it open, but it wouldn't fire at all even while pumping the throttle.
Having second thoughts about the plug wires since plug wires shouldn't work fine for approximately 3 minutes and then decide to act up. Wires are just wires, either they work all the time or they foul all the time, unless they're arcing, but again they'd arc all the time, possibly randomly, but not only and specifically after 2 or 3 minutes of running.
Pulled out the ECU which was much easier than expected. Everything inside looked immaculate, like it was brand new. The warranty stickers were still intact so it'd never been tampered with. Sorta felt bad cutting them. There are three Nichicon capacitors which look to be in perfect condition. I took some pictures with a real camera if anyone is interested for historical/archival purposes. I didn't take the main board out of the ECU housing because there's a daughter board attached with a ribbon cable, and that ribbon cable seems almost as if it's made out of paper, so I just carefully put it back together and put it back in the car.
I unplugged the O2 sensor because someone in another thread said that their car always ran better with it unplugged. It didn't make a difference here. Just gave me more time to verify that the car runs perfectly for 2 or 3 minutes after starting and then the stutter begins.
And then it started to stall again. Luckily it was right as I pulled into the driveway. Had to keep my foot on the throttle just to get it parked out of the way of the other cars. I'm guessing that whatever is causing the stutter is also eating the TFI because I bet if I change the TFI again it'll stop stalling again.
I'm also wondering if whatever is causing the stutter is related to closed loop vs open loop mode since it begins to stutter at about at the point where it should be changing to closed loop. Or maybe it's something entirely different since it keeps eating TFI modules.
Having second thoughts about the plug wires since plug wires shouldn't work fine for approximately 3 minutes and then decide to act up. Wires are just wires, either they work all the time or they foul all the time, unless they're arcing, but again they'd arc all the time, possibly randomly, but not only and specifically after 2 or 3 minutes of running.
Pulled out the ECU which was much easier than expected. Everything inside looked immaculate, like it was brand new. The warranty stickers were still intact so it'd never been tampered with. Sorta felt bad cutting them. There are three Nichicon capacitors which look to be in perfect condition. I took some pictures with a real camera if anyone is interested for historical/archival purposes. I didn't take the main board out of the ECU housing because there's a daughter board attached with a ribbon cable, and that ribbon cable seems almost as if it's made out of paper, so I just carefully put it back together and put it back in the car.
I unplugged the O2 sensor because someone in another thread said that their car always ran better with it unplugged. It didn't make a difference here. Just gave me more time to verify that the car runs perfectly for 2 or 3 minutes after starting and then the stutter begins.
And then it started to stall again. Luckily it was right as I pulled into the driveway. Had to keep my foot on the throttle just to get it parked out of the way of the other cars. I'm guessing that whatever is causing the stutter is also eating the TFI because I bet if I change the TFI again it'll stop stalling again.
I'm also wondering if whatever is causing the stutter is related to closed loop vs open loop mode since it begins to stutter at about at the point where it should be changing to closed loop. Or maybe it's something entirely different since it keeps eating TFI modules.
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