Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

V8 sho maf?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    V8 sho maf?

    Along with panthers, i also dabble in the slightly off-kilter world of the Taurus SHO. I've accumulated parts over the years and among them is a 3.4 liter V8 and associated parts. The stock MAF size for these engines is 80mm. But theyre also OBDII. If i wanted to use this as an alternative to an aftermarket MAF for my up coming improvements on my '91, what would i have to do? Will i need a tune? I plan on using either an A9L or an A9P.
    1992 SHO(what's left of it)
    1986 F-150(rust and option free)
    1950 Studebaker pickup(moves-kinda, stops-no)
    1987 T-bird(dead 3.wait, SHO swap in store)
    1991 CV $500 cream puffF

    #2
    needs a tune
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

    Comment


      #3
      Probably need more than a tune with a 6-wire MAF sensor. The '92-'94 and maybe a few other years CV's and GM's use the "70mm" maf...cut out the center bar leaving only the sampling tube and MUST use fox MAF electronics....also take out the little bit of casting flash and will actually measure 73mm. If you use the stock electronics in a mod'd housing it won't work worth a crap. I have one from an early 90's t-bird with electronics ready to go...only difference is, it isn't flanged on the air box side. Let me know if you're interested....don't need it with my new FAST EZ-EFI set-up.

      Good luck,
      Don
      '85 CV coupe- 351W, T5-Z, FAST Ez-Efi, shorty headers, 2.5" duals with knock off flowmasters, 2.5" Impala tails, seriously worked GT-40 irons, Comp 265DEH cam, 1.7rr's, Mallory HyFire 6A, Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm wires, 75mm t/b, 3G alt swap, 140mph PI speedo, PI rear sway bar, '00 PI booster/MC, 95-97 front spindles, '99 front hub bearings/brakes, '92-'94 front upper control arms/ball-joints, 3.73's with rebuilt traction-lok, '09 PI rear disc swap, '96 Mustang GT wheels with 235/55R17's.

      Comment


        #4
        If it's similar to the 80mm Mark VIII maf, all you need is a tune. That's what I'm running on my car.
        Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

        Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

        Comment


          #5
          The 6 wire MAF is a 4 wire MAF with a 2 wire intake air temperature sensor. There is an adapter available from rjm to plug the 6 wire MAF into the 4 wire harness, or you can change the plug. And you need the tune.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment


            #6
            For the price of a quality tune, you could just get a FAST EZ-EFI set-up and never have to worry about it again! lol

            I would say the benefit of an 80mm vs a 70/73mm far from justifies the price of a good tune...then again if you really NEED a maf that big...chances are you're long overdue for a tune anyway. Going that big isn't much of any benefit until you're well over 400rwhp...bigger ISN'T always better.

            Good luck,
            Don
            '85 CV coupe- 351W, T5-Z, FAST Ez-Efi, shorty headers, 2.5" duals with knock off flowmasters, 2.5" Impala tails, seriously worked GT-40 irons, Comp 265DEH cam, 1.7rr's, Mallory HyFire 6A, Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm wires, 75mm t/b, 3G alt swap, 140mph PI speedo, PI rear sway bar, '00 PI booster/MC, 95-97 front spindles, '99 front hub bearings/brakes, '92-'94 front upper control arms/ball-joints, 3.73's with rebuilt traction-lok, '09 PI rear disc swap, '96 Mustang GT wheels with 235/55R17's.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by sick88tbird View Post
              For the price of a quality tune, you could just get a FAST EZ-EFI set-up and never have to worry about it again! lol

              I would say the benefit of an 80mm vs a 70/73mm far from justifies the price of a good tune...then again if you really NEED a maf that big...chances are you're long overdue for a tune anyway. Going that big isn't much of any benefit until you're well over 400rwhp...bigger ISN'T always better.

              Good luck,
              Don
              The reason for trying to utilize the SHO maf is its free, for one, and because i figured it would be an improvement over a stock '89 GT maf. I've thought about the sampling tube idea because i believe it's C&L that has a housing with removeable sampling tubes to be changed with whatever size injectors youre using. Ill more than likely end up getting a tune anyway just because i feel that would be the best way to go after head, intake, cam and exhaust mods. I think it would be the only way to get the max potential out of the mods i'm gonna do. That being said, would switching the sensor between housings really make the car run shitty enough to not try it without a tune? Wouldnt the ecu "learn" and adjust accordingly? Im no tuning expert, but doesnt the mass air EECIV have the ability to adjust to modifications within a certain range of perameters?
              1992 SHO(what's left of it)
              1986 F-150(rust and option free)
              1950 Studebaker pickup(moves-kinda, stops-no)
              1987 T-bird(dead 3.wait, SHO swap in store)
              1991 CV $500 cream puffF

              Comment


                #8
                It's a tiny window of learning...lol. With that big of a housing you're MAF voltage will be all whacked out somewhere along the line...I was completely amazed when I did the 70mm housing with the center bar removed and fox electronics...voltage was dead on and A/F was right on...car woke up pretty good too.

                Good luck,
                Don
                '85 CV coupe- 351W, T5-Z, FAST Ez-Efi, shorty headers, 2.5" duals with knock off flowmasters, 2.5" Impala tails, seriously worked GT-40 irons, Comp 265DEH cam, 1.7rr's, Mallory HyFire 6A, Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm wires, 75mm t/b, 3G alt swap, 140mph PI speedo, PI rear sway bar, '00 PI booster/MC, 95-97 front spindles, '99 front hub bearings/brakes, '92-'94 front upper control arms/ball-joints, 3.73's with rebuilt traction-lok, '09 PI rear disc swap, '96 Mustang GT wheels with 235/55R17's.

                Comment


                  #9
                  The adjustable MAF thing is bogus. It just fools the ECM into sort-of working with different injectors. Definitely not the optimal way to do that.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X