gt40 intake?

[BerniniCaCO3]

Hi!

I've got:

HO block
explorer cam (for torque)
dual exhaust, with stock mustang headers/Hpipe
HO intake, throttle body
mark vii computer, speed density (was there an MAF anyway?)
3.55 rear gears.

It runs great--
Really pulls 2000rpm+. Dies off by 4000rpm+

Wondering if gt40 intakes help higher rpm matters?
Or if others have had trouble with speed density, and gt40 intakes-- or for that matter, if the gt40 intake has a different diameter opening, wider spacer, wider throttle body, that would be obnoxious to mate smoothly (the HO throttle body to the gt40 intake and/or spacer).
Would be getting a 96 with the egr hole. Several available where I live, from $100-$200 ($200 gets the tubular manifold, if that's any advantage, or merely looks cool/is marginally lighter).

If the benefits are marginal without swapping cams too,
or might even lead to issues with speed density,
I'm going to save my time, trouble, and cash and pass on the upgrade. But if it does help, I'm considering it.

[BerniniCaCO3]

on the other hand, might just be time to stop dicking with modifications, and just enjoy what I've got

[mrltd]

It will help. That's why Ford used it. Use an explorer throttle body which is 65mm and mod it like the HO throttle body. The cam is part of the problem, but the explorer intake will help all around. I'm surprised you bothered with an HO if you had the explorer intake. As for the speed density-it should be fine, but as it's been said before you never know until you try. The eec is finicky.

[BerniniCaCO3]

No, I never had the gt40 intake. I got lucky and got true gt40 heads at the junkyard for $90 (OK, + the time to pull the f*ckers). But someone had already nabbed the intake...
At the time (a year ago) I didn't have a job, and the $150 to buy a gt40 intake off craigslist was prohibitive.

Stock mustang throttle body is 55mm right?
And the computer expects 55mm, and when the tps shows, say, 30 degrees open, it computes airflow assuming 55mm right?
So if I throw on a larger explorer throttle body, how do I get it to adjust accordingly? If my mark vii computer is working off of 55mm, and I put on a 65mm tb, it'll run lean all the time

[sly]

on a mass air system, it measures the air flow... so you just need the appropriate MAF sensor (for the most part). On SD systems, it takes into account the amount of vacuum. If it has a table large enough to account for the drop in pressure at the speed, then it "should" run fine (my 88 ran fine with less than 15inHg running down the highway with that redneck ram air... it was forcing enough air into the system that the AC would drop out even with all good check valves. It would take a while to drop, but at highway speeds, you can't rebuild the vacuum in the system very fast thanks to those small lines... but anyhoo).

This is all theory. It's been proven many times that theory and real life are entirely two different things.

[mrltd]

60mm I thought on the HO, 50 on the lopo.

Yes, it might run a little lean-however that's what O2 sensors are for. And the computer learns. A larger cam and heads will also suck in more air irregardless. And adjustable fuel pressure regulator would help, but the best thing to do is toss on mass air if there are issues.

[86VickyLX]

Your car should run fine with speed density. My car was weird due to some wiring harness fuck ups on my part during the engine swap.

Adjustable fuel pressure regulators are annoying It takes a little bit longer to start with those things. I just put my stock one back on. So much nicer.

[gadget73]

The Explorer cam does run out fairly early. Its a truck cam, and runs like one. With ported heads and a GT40 on my car, its pretty much all over with about 4600 or so. handily thats also right about where it shifts, so that works out.