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    #46
    Fram filters are know for dry starts on the 5.0. It made my 96 F150 run like garbage when I had her.
    sigpicJosephine-1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS-Bone stock.....for now

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      #47
      UPDATE;

      If you have anything GM and use AC Delco oil filters, if the filter ends in an "E" prefix then you're looking at their new economy filter. These filters have plastic internals instead of the original metal internals. The new construction is identical to the STP filters.
      1984 Ford Crown Vic LTD, The Murphmobile (RIP)
      1985 Ford Crown Vic LTD, The Murph Deuce (SOLD)
      1978 Chevrolet Caprice Classic, The Crapiece (current project)

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        #48
        any of you guys tryed the k&n or mobile one filters i like dat they have the nut on the end but i havent used fram filter since my wifes kia blow up after the oil change because the filter wasnt made right and sucked part of the paper in clogging the oil hole on her lifter
        Last edited by Rassel90; 09-18-2015, 07:34 PM. Reason: spelling

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          #49
          The plastic gut ones are E for E-Core, not economy.

          Alex.

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            #50
            Avoid fram. I work at a TLE in a walmart. The COR (Bright orange filters) are absurdly light, theres barely anything in them at all. When I had my work do my oil change for my 1986 crown vic (I got bundled a fuel injector cleaning the smoke coming out of it nearly knocked out two of my friends and had them go over everything. I brought my own oil and filter however) I picked out a K&N HP-3001 it costs a bit more, but this car was sitting for a bit so I wanted to clean out the system. 600 miles latter and the oil still looks pretty damn good considering the bloody car sat for a year. There are mustang guys who run these K&N on blown cars and they swear by them.. I figure overkill is better then fram COR underkill. If you having issues justifying the cost of a filter just divide its cost by the number of miles you go per each oil change.. I've upsold a few good filters to people telling them that.

            If you go to a walmart or need your oil changed just straight up get the filter and hand it to them. Most of them should be competent to scan it into the system and get it on your car. I am pleased with the K&N HP-3001 Theres a page where somebody cross sectioned the different filters and the K&N is pretty good.

            I've seen Wix Filters and the Napa filters those are probably the heaviest I have taken off of cars. The fram COR's are pathetic and should be avoided. The other frams use plastic internals. Those explode when we crush the damn things and just today I was cleaning out the tubing from our crusher because it got clogged with plastic crap. You see pictures of the black ones constantly (CORE) online and those ones are better then the orange ones. Some of the orange ones come new in the box with rust on them.. I kid yeah not. If I could get my hands on an unused one and take a hacksaw to it maybe I could show what I suspect. Many of these Cor filters you can look down through the holes and not even see anything unless you tip it on its side. It's really sad.

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              #51
              I was at advanced auto the other day and noticed they have a new line of filters. Their in these wired hexagon shaped boxes and are built like a tank. No idea what gauge steel they are but I couldn't deform one by hand, seemed comparable to a Ford Racing filter or K&N. I think the 1A equivalent was like $9.
              2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
              2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
              2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
              1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

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